Goldwing Stator troubles

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Remo3310

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Rapid City, SD
Good Afternoon!

Here is what's going on with my Goldwing. It is a 1981 Goldwing GL1100. If I have charged the batter with a trickle charge overnight the bike will start right up, but when I turn it off and try and start it again it might turn once if I'm lucky but it will fail to start the bike. Though, we are able to get the bike started by push starting it so I can at least still ride the bike, it just appears that the stater is not charging the bike as I ride.

We checked the battery a couple months after I bought it and the battery was good. We have also taken the connector off of the three yellow wires beside the batter off and we then reconnected the wires via soldering. That still hasn't seemed to solve the problem. Looking forward we are trying to avoid changing the stater because of the whole nuisance of pulling the entire engine out.

So my question is, would it be best to convert to an alternator, or just change out the stater. Maybe someone has another idea about what might be wrong with the bike. I am open to any suggestions and am hoping that I can get the problem solved before riding season kicks into full gear out here in the Black Hills.

Thanks Everybody!

The new guy,

Jeremy
 
The thing to do is check the voltage at the battery while it is running, (DC setting 20V range)somehow using alligator clips or whatever clip the voltmeter to it and see what the idle and high RPM volts are, if low next pull the headlight fuse with no headlight did the volts rise? if so then the regulator is doing its job and next will be checking AC volts at the 3 yellow wires, one probe to any yellow the other probe to any other yellow wire, I think it should have 13-14V or better volts AC but you need to check all 3 while running and keep from shorting any of them out while moving probes around.
Added, if your stator is bad the fix is up to you, I would do a stator if it were me, If you use allot of lighting and accesories maybe consider an external alternator.
 
We have checked the voltage in the batter while it was running. The voltage was low, I think we got 11.7 at its highest with maybe a 11.7-12V at 3000 rpm. We also checked the current in the batter as we took out all of the fuses. There was never any change through the battery as we did that
 
Before you soldered the stator wires did you check the AC output of each phase?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171274#p171274:3slsozbk said:
Remo3310 » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:00 pm[/url]":3slsozbk]
We have checked the voltage in the batter while it was running. The voltage was low, I think we got 11.7 at its highest with maybe a 11.7-12V at 3000 rpm. We also checked the current in the batter as we took out all of the fuses. There was never any change through the battery as we did that
Sounds more like a regulator problem, a weak stator would still show improvement without a headlight on, pull the tank off and check your connections and then the regulator..may be an easier fix then a rotor.
Here`s a video.
[video]https://youtu.be/F8EjV0IjW9Q[/video]
Stator test
[video]https://youtu.be/2M7VICToiMU[/video]
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171275#p171275:3b7bvb6e said:
Ansimp » 11 minutes ago[/url]":3b7bvb6e]
Before you soldered the stator wires did you check the AC output of each phase?


We did not check the AC output on each of the wires. we'll have to try that out.
 
Thanks guys. I'll go through and do a regulator check and check the Ac outage on those three yellow wires and I'll update you on the progress. Hoping to get some work done on it this weekend.

This is greatly appreciated
 
Keep it simple. Cut the 3 yellow wires then check each for continuity to ground. If there is then the stator is toast. Next check to verify, start it up and check A/C volts yellow to yellow on all 3. You should get about 60 volts, approx 30 volts to ground when checked at each yellow separately.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171283#p171283:3ojv1ayk said:
dan filipi » 5 minutes ago[/url]":3ojv1ayk]
Keep it simple. Cut the 3 yellow wires then check each for continuity to ground. If there is then the stator is toast. Next check to verify, start it up and check A/C volts yellow to yellow on all 3. You should get about 60 volts, approx 30 volts to ground when checked at each yellow separately.


Ok, just to make sure I understand, i should get 60 volts from yellow to yellow and 30 from yellow to ground if the stator is good? or bad?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171284#p171284:21rfyiqy said:
Remo3310 » 6 minutes ago[/url]":21rfyiqy]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171283#p171283:21rfyiqy said:
dan filipi » 5 minutes ago[/url]":21rfyiqy]
Keep it simple. Cut the 3 yellow wires then check each for continuity to ground. If there is then the stator is toast. Next check to verify, start it up and check A/C volts yellow to yellow on all 3. You should get about 60 volts, approx 30 volts to ground when checked at each yellow separately.


Ok, just to make sure I understand, i should get 60 volts from yellow to yellow and 30 from yellow to ground if the stator is good? or bad?
If the stator is good.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171285#p171285:3d88m1jz said:
dan filipi » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:38 pm[/url]":3d88m1jz]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171284#p171284:3d88m1jz said:
Remo3310 » 6 minutes ago[/url]":3d88m1jz]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171283#p171283:3d88m1jz said:
dan filipi » 5 minutes ago[/url]":3d88m1jz]
Keep it simple. Cut the 3 yellow wires then check each for continuity to ground. If there is then the stator is toast. Next check to verify, start it up and check A/C volts yellow to yellow on all 3. You should get about 60 volts, approx 30 volts to ground when checked at each yellow separately.


Ok, just to make sure I understand, i should get 60 volts from yellow to yellow and 30 from yellow to ground if the stator is good? or bad?
If the stator is good.
Dan, I thought it was less then 60V per leg to ground..No? are there 2 ways to test?
[video]https://youtu.be/zOG_nmnRT5k[/video]
 
My experience & luck has been, the stator was toast, :roll: or on it's last leg :whistling:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171297#p171297:1743edse said:
zman » 17 minutes ago[/url]":1743edse]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171285#p171285:1743edse said:
dan filipi » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:38 pm[/url]":1743edse]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171284#p171284:1743edse said:
Remo3310 » 6 minutes ago[/url]":1743edse]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171283#p171283:1743edse said:
dan filipi » 5 minutes ago[/url]":1743edse]
Keep it simple. Cut the 3 yellow wires then check each for continuity to ground. If there is then the stator is toast. Next check to verify, start it up and check A/C volts yellow to yellow on all 3. You should get about 60 volts, approx 30 volts to ground when checked at each yellow separately.


Ok, just to make sure I understand, i should get 60 volts from yellow to yellow and 30 from yellow to ground if the stator is good? or bad?
If the stator is good.
Dan, I thought it was less then 60V per leg to ground..No? are there 2 ways to test?
[video]https://youtu.be/zOG_nmnRT5k[/video]
In that video, voltage is being checked with the yellows connected to the harness which means it's connected to the charging system so it's showing voltage under a load. I've never checked it that way. Probably a fine test, I just haven't done a comparison.
I explained earlier to cut the yellows (or unplug the stator) then check the voltage, which should be about 30 (40-45) volt A/C to ground at each yellow or 60 (70-75) volts yellow to yellow.
I would suggest checking the stator both ways. No harm in getting more comparison readings.

Correction: I watched again the video I made when checking mine. Voltage at 3000 rpm yellow to yellow is about 75, 1/2 that when checking voltage on yellow to ground.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUfQePLCVUc[/video]

I originally made that video to show what my stator reads because it charges good and I wanted others to have some basis for comparison. For all I know, mine could read high. It is higher than others I've read when tested the same way. Those were more in the range of 60 volts yellow to yellow.
 
I haven't seen anyone mention the 12V sense wire at the regulator. There is a black wire at the regulator that is from the bikes electrical system, this wire is letting the regulator know what voltage the system is operating at. The 'sense wire goes through connectors and switches before the regulator. A simple test to verify its function, is to measure battery '+' voltage and the sense wire voltage. Using your Volt number above, battery '+' = 11.7, the sense wire needs to be within .5V or less of that batt V number. This is just one more charging health circuit test. I doubt the sense wire is at a higher than Batt V, but if it were the system won't charge the battery properly.

Different idea, I noticed you stated when it was "hot" it wouldn't start. If you let it cool down will it start ok, without trickle charging? If so, could be the carbon has built up inside the starter, and the starter is in need of a rebuild/cleaning.

Just other things to keep in mind :)
 
Different idea, I noticed you stated when it was "hot" it wouldn't start. If you let it cool down will it start ok, without trickle charging? If so, could be the carbon has built up inside the starter, and the starter is in need of a rebuild/cleaning.

This was the exact problem on mine. I cleaned the starter and now it spins like a dream at any temp.
Mike
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171326#p171326:3p15ysyl said:
julimike54 » Today, 5:13 am[/url]":3p15ysyl]
I haven't seen anyone mention the 12V sense wire at the regulator. There is a black wire at the regulator that is from the bikes electrical system, this wire is letting the regulator know what voltage the system is operating at. The 'sense wire goes through connectors and switches before the regulator. A simple test to verify its function, is to measure battery '+' voltage and the sense wire voltage. Using your Volt number above, battery '+' = 11.7, the sense wire needs to be within .5V or less of that batt V number. This is just one more charging health circuit test. I doubt the sense wire is at a higher than Batt V, but if it were the system won't charge the battery properly.

I found information regarding the sense wire for the RR on the GWDocs forum. As you mention and I agree with, the sense wire also supplies power to a host other items and the voltage getting to the RR through this wire could be significantly less than what is actual at the battery. This in essence could cause an overcharging of the battery if the difference is great enough because if the RR senses a low voltage at the battery even if it is not the RR will allow the appropriate current/voltage to flow to top up the battery to the "perceived" level. If there is a 1 to 2 VDC drop through the wiring/connectors at the RR, this should be constant as the battery is charged and the end charge will be 1 to 2 VDC higher than necessary.

This also applies to the coils as well. The wire from the kill switch providing 12VDC power to the coils also provides power to other items and the voltage getting to the coils can be less than 12 VDC resulting in a weaker spark.

I put in a relay that is switched on with the wire from the kill switch so that the bike shuts down when the switch is used. The 12 VDC power comes from a fuse block and each wire (one to the coils and one to the RR) is fused and is a truer 12 VDC reading than through the existing and old wiring and connectors. My theory is that I have better spark from the coils, and the RR and charging circuit is operating as it is supposed to.

I read a post where a fellow took the old stator-RR wiring connector to a friends lab after he removed it from his bike and soldered the respective wires. The lab results indicated that the conducting ability of the connectors had degraded some 50% from original over the 30 some years the connector had been installed. It was an interesting post.

Cheers
 
Any time the resistance is reduced things run happier for sure.
Was the case when I replaced the fuse panel with a blade type, and put a relay on its main feed, all the lights got brighter.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171338#p171338:2q36ye6v said:
dan filipi » Tue Apr 05, 2016 10:59 am[/url]":2q36ye6v]
Any time the resistance is reduced things run happier for sure.
Was the case when I replaced the fuse panel with a blade type, and put a relay on its main feed, all the lights got brighter.

This reminded me I forgot to install the relay... :head bang:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=171326#p171326:3ehh4vd7 said:
julimike54 » Today, 7:13 am[/url]":3ehh4vd7]
I haven't seen anyone mention the 12V sense wire at the regulator. There is a black wire at the regulator that is from the bikes electrical system, this wire is letting the regulator know what voltage the system is operating at. The 'sense wire goes through connectors and switches before the regulator. A simple test to verify its function, is to measure battery '+' voltage and the sense wire voltage. Using your Volt number above, battery '+' = 11.7, the sense wire needs to be within .5V or less of that batt V number. This is just one more charging health circuit test. I doubt the sense wire is at a higher than Batt V, but if it were the system won't charge the battery properly.

Different idea, I noticed you stated when it was "hot" it wouldn't start. If you let it cool down will it start ok, without trickle charging? If so, could be the carbon has built up inside the starter, and the starter is in need of a rebuild/cleaning.

Just other things to keep in mind :)


It does not start up cold either.
 
Top