Littlebeavers Conversion

Hello guy's I figure I would start a post on my conversion too,, :smilie_happy: , it's not necessary but I figured it would be the best way to show and tell...The pulley I have came off a 1989 Honda Prelude other honda models have them too but the bore hole is larger so a bushing is required, I made a bushing out of a pipe of copper pipe I had for those but the prelude one is just right well you may need to drill it a hair.. ..Roadrogue or Todd told me about the pulley ..I have been watching and listening for some time now and between Dan and Todd and Poorboy Don I have really learned a great deal, they convinced me to add the conversion..I just worry too much about the old stator..one of these alternators would be so much easier to change out then a stator would be...I'm going to post things you already may have seen so it's nothing new really.. exciting for me though...what a Rush I got today man, I went out in search of the 8 gauge wire and connectors, well, I found the wire and fuse and connectors but the fuse holder was a different story, I found them at Advance auto, could find that holder anywhere so I got on line and ordered one off ebay for 5 bones, I wire the bike up today and fired it up, and put the voltmeter to it [multimeter] and quess what.... :shock: At a idle it was 14.30 and at 3k and above 14.45 and no higher, right when I was seeing those readings Penny looked in the garage and asked hows it going, I said perfect baby perfect, just like a car..this is a 4" pulley to a 2" pulley..I am thrilled at those reading . very happy, I showed my daughter the voltmeter on our car in the walmart parking lot, I said see how it's right at 14 volts she said yeh dad I said my bike is like that now..How cool is that..

Todd thought of a great way to make an adjustment screw from the frame using a pipe hanger, I think it's a simple solution I just want a heavier duty one but the one I have is good for now..I twisted a piece of flat stock to fasten the allthread that's fastened to the frame...here's a photo.


I got some heavy duty 1/4" flat stock for the lower bracket, and I don't have a welding machine so I couldn't weld anything so I did a little thinking...I just opened the hole up in the alternator to 1/2" and used a heavy 1/2" bolt and nuts and lock washers for the bottom, this made my adjustment simple..now if you think about it the pipe holder at the top will not allow that lower bracket to move down at all because it's fastened to the frame so the alternator is stuck perfectly..here's a photo..

I spend a few minutes last night on the cutting of the steel cover that comes down on the back of the alternator to fit...

looks good beave right down your strike zone of connecting the dots ...i dontsee a thing wrong with it if it passes the torque test of staying still at speed

Joe, I will learn man, I'm working on it, the brackets can be done several different ways I was trying for the simplest and fastest way, I got it tested today and that's what the rush was about, now I can focus on making improvements to the bracket system..Beef it up at the top..I'll think of something..

Looks good beav.
I like that adjuster, you one clever guy!

I'm glad Fysty-1 was awake at 2 am she let me know what gauge wire I needed.. It's alive Dan.. Not so clever but sure am a little desprate... :smilie_happy: 14.30 at Idle man, how cool is that and it only goes up to 14.45...Wow...Perfection...Yes ...I am as happy as you were Dan and Cyborg and Don, and Todd and anyone else that has done it..Don is the one guy I'd like to buy a Ice cold mug of beer for dreaming this up.... I still would like a solid one piece pulley don't ya know.. thanks I'm not done I'm just starting 4" to 2" is perfect..

dan filipi":b9qkkol1 said:

Looks good beav.
I like that adjuster, you one clever guy!

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actually that's Todd's doing..I took ideas from you and him and some of my own..and others too...I can take credit for the 1/2 bolt and enlarging the hole and my jury rigged temperary pulley..

That is really cool littlebeaver 14 volts is great.
Jerry

Super nice to know she's charging good!

I worked on my mount today and fastened another piece of lighter flat stock from the top engine mount to the lower piece holding up the alternator..I do things different than most.. Not saying it's better but different and easy...after getting everything set and perfect I looked and thought and looked and though and I went to work,,here's the added piece to the flat stock..in this photo..




Now I'm confident it wouldn't move... :Egyptian: also in the second photo you will see I added much larger bolts to the pipe holder with lock washers, everything I do, always has lock washers attached..and the correct size bolt for the application...that bratcket shouldn't move down now even if it wanted to.. ain't going nowhere..and if that 8.8 1/2 bolt for the mount doesn't work I get a stronger one..should be good...Joe it's been beaver tested aaahhh :smilie_happy:

Guys I ordered a 60 amp fuse holder for the 8 gauge wire only as a safety precaution, some say it's not really needed, but they don't know me, see at Christmas time I'm likely to ride around down here with lights all over the bike. :shock: .with my trailer lite up too..aaaaah...I better have a fuse in it, it's a 55 amp alt. so I figure 60 is that correct? also Dan I heard you loud and clear on tapping into the fuse line like the headlight and it makes perfect sense to do that, but I'm different I keep telling you, heres what I did I got a female spade connect with the plast cover over the connect itself you know and I fused the excited line because I had a holder just laying there and I just plugged it into the black igntion spade at the unplugged Regulator rectifier, then taped it up real nice so it's water proof...and even though the ground wire isn't needed because the unit is grounded I went ahead and grounded it...So it's 100 percent wired and fastened onward to the radiator and fan..I'm going to need a one inch bolt at my battery for all the stuff I'm going to add..I might add my old speaker box now to have my 4" speaker again..those were awesome to, that would be six speakers. yes... :music3:

This is one thing I never mentioned and it's most important, lineing the belt up, any mechanic will tell you this is most important so the pulley isn't twisted or set out too far, I have a good method that I'd like to share with everyone...I have never seen this in any other post..ok, get a piece of flat stock or any straight edge, place it on the 4" pulley [across it] on edge and from the top of the other 2" pulley you will see if its off or not, using my method with the bolt you can bring it in or out..that's the magic of using the bolt.. Ajustments are made so much easier..I was about a 1/8" off while checking mine, made a quick adjustment and it's spot on now...I'm sure most will agree with this method of checking the pulley...just be sure they are the same thickness on the edge of the pulley, it should be..

good work beav ...we sure have several altinator mods going on thet seem great ...and yes belt line up is everything ....got to be right on ....an when the alt. is tensioned right mounting bolts and all it spin free and vibrationless and be as good as anything else on the oldwing ....good stuff

Nice going beaver. ingenuity is your strong point. Letting others in on your secrets is very generous of you.

Question: How does one check the power coming from the alt? I have mine all hooked up but have no idea how to check it. As they say might be a dumb question BUT I did ask.

Yes, Todd"s correct about having to move over the fan mount far to the right.... I'm just glad someone else is paving the way for others, I moved the fan mount over and refastened it without welding anything, still working on the radiator and getting it in and fitting it all proper... I'm giving it a lot of thought so I'll be back and show you what I did..with photo's..lots of them when I finish it and it's all done 100 percent.. One thing I did was I removed the front wheel and fender to make it easier and I pulled the carbs so I could view everything good..the original spot for the fan's motor has a hole in the heat shield, I'm planning on cutting out a new hole for the back of the fan tomorrow...and hopefully finishing it..

I hope you didn't have to grind the crown off any of the bolts. That's would be just too messy!

beav- You plugged exciter wire into the regulator plug. That would be the IG terminal on regulator.(or I could use the headlight wire)
Did you plug the s terminal anywhere? if so where?
Did you plug the L terminal anywhere? If so where?

Thanks for any input

wilcoy02":3hzonmed said:

beav- You plugged exciter wire into the regulator plug. That would be the IG terminal on regulator.(or I could use the headlight wire)
Did you plug the s terminal anywhere? if so where?
Did you plug the L terminal anywhere? If so where?

Thanks for any input

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S is a sensor[top flat spade] to tell you what volts you have, I have a volt meter already tapped in on the fairing so I didn't use that one, the alt. is grounded thru the frame so it really doesn't need to grind down but I grounded the L wire [rightside spade]...and the other wire is the IG wire which is my exciter wire that I went to the ignition with a 10 amp fused line, I just didn't want tap into my headlight and found that to be another solution is all..it should do the same thing..I hope aaaah :smilie_happy: Dan heck no man i didn't need to ground down any bolt head man, I left the inner bolts out..just because I added a pulley didn't change anything there, I used it without the inner bolts now for a long time with no ill effect or it even remotely coming loose...Joe's right...now I gotta fasten that felt that angela was talking about.. :hihihi:

Does L terminal need to be grounded for it to work?
I thought that was for the idiot light to come on if the battery voltage is higher than the alternator voltage.