Ford Grid Heater Test for Single Carb

Wattage of resistors will always be a problem and if memory serves me correct current will still be high for the total circuit..

I'm just kinda' shocked that you need the heat in San Diego...

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=148243#p148243:tpv0f12g said:

RhinoWing » Thu May 07, 2015 7:13 pm[/url]":tpv0f12g]
I'm just kinda' shocked that you need the heat in San Diego...

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Weber carb has a rich idle. Heat leans it by vaporizing the fuel.

PWM finally showed up! Works great, just can't be connected to a grounded load. Had to make sure the manifold was isolated. Got it set for 3 amps (around 40 watts) as a starting point as that is about all my charging system can handle right now. I'm also going to an HID headlight which will free up another 20 watts or so. I'll report back after a few days. Initial impression seems a little better, but not like full power.

Mike

Great to hear that your PWM is working correctly :good:

Up to 6 amps now. Still not as responsive as it was at full power, but better than not having it. Switching to a 35w hid headlight freed up a couple of amps. I think my next step is to try a better heat source for the manifold, as whenever the bike has been sitting for a few minutes after being fully warmed up, it runs great. I had used some copper wool to transfer heat from the top of the engine, but the pwm/ load needs to be isolated to work right so I had to remove it. The copper wool was somewhat effective in transferring heat though.

Mike

hmmmmm interesting ...seems to me carb must be way off to get big results with the heat ...my carb is actually on the lean side now .....but took a lot of carb tricking and idle circut shut down and mod ....i guess heat will be needed at winter time ...but im surprised too you need it now ....my carb is actually biggest dft made and different than the 32-32 carb im assuming this is

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=149001#p149001:2n0t9yqn said:

tronerdog » Mon May 18, 2015 5:01 am[/url]":2n0t9yqn]
Up to 6 amps now. Still not as responsive as it was at full power, but better than not having it. Switching to a 35w hid headlight freed up a couple of amps. I think my next step is to try a better heat source for the manifold, as whenever the bike has been sitting for a few minutes after being fully warmed up, it runs great. I had used some copper wool to transfer heat from the top of the engine, but the pwm/ load needs to be isolated to work right so I had to remove it. The copper wool was somewhat effective in transferring heat though.

Mike

Click to expand...

The fuel/air rushing through the manifold when it is running pulls a lot of heat out. I made a manifold out of copper thinking that the runners would be warmed by heat coducted from the head. The runners stayed cold when running. Shut it off and the runners got so hot you couldn't touch them. Start it up again and, within a few seconds they were cold again.

You need a big source of heat. In cars, where these carbs are normally installed, they usually have coolant or exhaust gases running through the manifold.

Brian

Still runs best at full power, but with the weather warming up, it's running real nice. Manifold still cool when running. I will be adding coolant heat before winter, but right now I'm pretty happy. Wife just bought a new Harley Dyna Low Rider, so I've been chasing her all over the place. I probably have close to 1000 miles on the conversion and it still impresses me every time I ride it.
Where should I list my stock carbs? I will NEVER go back to them.

Mike

hmmm sounds great mike .....

Well, I finally did it.
I increased the jets in my primary. As the weather has gotten colder, the stumble has gotten worse. Initial results are encouraging. The air corrector fought me all the way out though. ended up with brass shavings in the well. Took a handful of Q-tips to clean it all out and I had to replace the corrector. The jets appear to be punched to inhibit tampering. The pilot was also punched, but not as damaged as the primary main. I am now running a 55 pilot, and a 110 main. I turned off the grid-heater as a baseline, and the mixture screw is only out about 1 turn, as opposed to 4. Might be too rich, but the goal is to "cure" the stumble first, then fine tune back until acceptable. I will add in the heater as I play with it to see if it still helps as much as before.

Mike

Just got back from first ride. I think I'm a little too rich on the bottom now, but the stumble is almost gone. Had to turn on heater to smooth out idle.
About 65 degrees out right now. I'm actually thinking of going up to a 115 main and backing the pilot down.

Thoughts?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=163644#p163644:3r8hd0ep said:

tronerdog » Sun Nov 29, 2015 2:40 pm[/url]":3r8hd0ep]
Just got back from first ride. I think I'm a little too rich on the bottom now, but the stumble is almost gone. Had to turn on heater to smooth out idle.
About 65 degrees out right now. I'm actually thinking of going up to a 115 main and backing the pilot down.

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan to me. Maybe 50 idle jet. Then set mix screw to highest vacuum.

To know is you have the right size primary low speed jet here is what I did (I think it is call the "best, fastest idle" method:

-Warm the bike up then shut is off
-Turn the idle mix screw in to bottom and then back out 2 turns
-Back the idle speed screw off until it is not touching the idle arm then turn it in till it is just touching and then another 1 1/2 turns.
-Start the bike up again. It will be idling very slow, maybe barely running.
-Turn the idle mix screw in or out to get the best and fastest idle.
-Now turn the bike off and count the number of turns that the idle mix screw is out from bottom. Should be between 1 and 2 turns if you have the right size jet. If it is less than 1 turn then you need to go down in jet size, if it is more that 2 turns then you need to go up.

Hope this helps
Brian

I have attached a more details instruction