Another 34 Pic 3 Build!

I just bought a sweet old '81 wing and just finished the entire 21 pages of this thread. A few thoughts:

DKL build threads:
viewtopic.php?f=107&t=9025
viewtopic.php?f=107&t=8452
viewtopic.php?f=107&t=8933

1. I am jealous of DKL's;
Two naked Wings
Fishing
Dogs
Food
Camping, and most of all,
Single carb conversion! Excellent work, sir!

I'm preparing for the V2.0 manifold build. A couple questions, please.

1. Could you use a "true wye" (flexpvc.com) fitting to split the single runner into two runners, then heat/bend a piece of pipe from the wye to the stock elbows? This would seem to streamline the airflow by eliminating the two 90° turns just before the head.

2. Would it be beneficial, again for airflow, to smooth out all interior surfaces of the PVC fittings? Just like porting and polishing heads and intakes on a car engine for added performance.

Thanks for your indulgence. I'm not trying to reinvent what you have achieved. Just wondering if these things were considered or tried in your experiences before I place my order with Flexpvc.

True wye closer to center could be used I'm sure. As to the benefits? Unknown. It's been shown through a variety of manifold carb combinations. The manifold design is secondary to getting the carb right. If you go this route. Post your build and results and questions along the way.

A tru wye can be used but it makes it harder to put together. I have put together many versions and all of them worked. The final version is so easy and simple, and I have had no problems. Most important thing is no Leaks, and get the Carb dialed in. Just like he said take plenty of pictures.....Good Luck.

Thanks for the replies.

I just ordered the 34 pict 3 from ebay and proper fittings from flexpvc. I'm going to go with V2.0 since it sounds like there's not much performance to be gained with other arrangements and for assembly simplicity's sake.

My biggest concern is dialing in the carb so I will certainly be posting here for guidance if that is okay. I can start my own thread if you prefer.

That's fine,, probably do both so you have a record of ur build start to finish. Holler if u have a question. Good Luck.

Looking forward to the build and tuning. Every build helps others do the same so ask away.

Carb, air cleaner and pvc fittings arrived today! :clapping:

First question: I remember reading that I need longer mounting studs. Now I see why. Where can I source them?

Edit: Upon close inspection, it appears these studs are pressed in. I'm thinking it would be easier to mill a little material off the flange to make these studs work.

Looking forward to the weekend for some manifold building fun!

Hardware store should have them

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Could just use a longer bolt thru the carb flange.

Could use recessed nuts.
https://www.heritageparts.com/Manufactu ... aQod9M4C3w

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178218#p178218:383rjwp0 said:

slabghost » Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:29 pm[/url]":383rjwp0]
Could use recessed nuts.
https://www.heritageparts.com/Manufactu ... aQod9M4C3w

Click to expand...

That would work, but getting it tight would be a mother!

I think I would try to shave off some of the material from the flange and if that causes the flange to be too weak, press out the studs and just use a bolt/nut.

hmmmmm..... opcorn:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178219#p178219:2hysw9t9 said:

brianinpa » 40 minutes ago[/url]":2hysw9t9]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178218#p178218:2hysw9t9 said:

slabghost » Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:29 pm[/url]":2hysw9t9]
Could use recessed nuts.
https://www.heritageparts.com/Manufactu ... aQod9M4C3w

Click to expand...

That would work, but getting it tight would be a mother!

I think I would try to shave off some of the material from the flange and if that causes the flange to be too weak, press out the studs and just use a bolt/nut.

Click to expand...

The carb base needs that beef to bolt down flat and air tight. The plastic needs all the beef it can get so I wouldn't shave either. Longer bolts thru the flange after removing the studs...simple.

Well not so easy. Re read my post I edited to say I believe they are pressed in. The one stud is directly under the fuel bowl.

Only idea I have is to find slightly larger studs and pull these out then tap thread into the holes.

oh my ..no wonder people like to mill the plastic down some .....sounding petty good now

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178218#p178218:2kmdtlo5 said:

slabghost » Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:29 pm[/url]":2kmdtlo5]
Could use recessed nuts.
https://www.heritageparts.com/Manufactu ... aQod9M4C3w

Click to expand...

this is looking good for sure now ...seems they would make one with hex head ... :shock:

I'll post a close-up when I get back home
I have never seen pressed in studs in a carb before. But I see no evidence of threads in the one hole that is visible from the top side. Maybe I'm mistaken. Wonder if DKL had any issues with this?

You could use a coupling, then extend the thread to fit, :headscratch: or a longer one, & use a socket (allen) bolt. opcorn:

The studs unscrew, longer studs are available at auto parts, just be sure of thread size. I would not mill down the plastic. I also use a large fender washer under the nut,,,,may have to grind it to a half moon shape so it will fit.

DKL was right on. Studs unscrewed. Now a trip to auto parts for studs and hardware store for 1" PVC and a cable stay for throttle.

Thanks for the help already gang.