Single Carb. Conversion, VW Plenum & Modding, the OEM Manifolds

My desire here is to make this easy for everyone to do as a DIY project

Using a VW plenum manifold and use the OEM manifolds, Modified to use a straight shot at the head.

I have been looking at the OEM manifolds again, there may be something that can be done.

There are only two Worst manifolds (like Knackwurst or liverwurst) that need to be Modified, the other two are straight shots in.

I like Ham better, and Liverwurst, no I dont, I hate Liverwurst.

The Mod. will be, to adjust the two worst manifolds to Point directly at the cylinder head ports.

That way, you have only 1 bend, to point, directly, to the Port, and then, a straight shot into the oem manifold.

This will eliminate the 2nd bend, having to come back the equal amount, to get a straight shot into the oem manifolds.

I have one bad Manifold, I will modify it, and see if it will work first.

I just cut the one bad OEM Manifold.

This looks like it will work.

It also looks like the 1-1/4" EMT conduit can play in this game.

We will not bend it.

We will cut to make our bend.

O-ring size for GL10/11

O-ring Material Viton, Viton is rated for a higher temp
Pg. 1-6 in the Honda OEM manual says 40x2.6

2.5x 40 mm is Very Common.

1/10 of a mm smaller in the cross section, It should work, but, if i have to use some Ultra Black, no big deal.

I will get a few 2.5 x40 mm O-rings to see how they work.

This should be a easy size to find locally, or online.

"The O-ring store" has them in Viton, QTY price breaks do apply.

ok where am I at ... oh new thread .. ok ... yes west I guess you and I are hard to keep up too but yes this is going to happen to hooch ..... :builder: :mrgreen:

its great ideas get bonced back and forth as its going even if it is hard to follow :clapping: :mrgreen:

I am so glad Joe,

Glad to hear, that Hooch will once again will be the Screaming Demon.

Lets get this show on the road.

This is an evolving post. Let the metaphoric monkeys converse. Tons of ideas floating. The cream will cone to the top.

I'm leaving the threads run as they are.
We'll sort out the important parts later.

I have all the tubes cut.

Here is a picture of what I have so far.

Two straight tubes one on each side and two Manifolds that need to be angled



Manifold cut

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97861#p97861:2r3bqfek said:

westgl » Sat Sep 28, 2013 5:01 pm[/url]":2r3bqfek]
I have all the tubes cut.

Here is a picture of what I have so far.

Two straight tubes one on each side and two Manifolds that need to be angled

P1020145

• westgl
• Sep 28, 2013

New tubes cut and are ready to go

Manifold cut

P1020149

• westgl
• Sep 28, 2013

Click to expand...

I read the image description of the cut intake horn.
Clever thinking.

Have you tried soldering this metal yet?
Curious what you use.

I have tried to use a 1100 degree high temp solder for Brazing, with the corresponding flux.

Being that it is alum., it needs to be heated, then soldered, or brazed, what I have did NOT work.

The brazing rod did not flow or attached to it

So, I do have a few alternatives, go with a 430 degree solder, or

There is a very good Tig welder, that does Tig Alum. and cast alum. in town, so this would be very easy, for them to do.

For two Manifolds, less than 1-3/4" round tube, i do not think it would be that much.

I will mark the lines showing the twist, line up the lines then the Tig welder seam welds them together.

You now have a set of single carb manifolds, and all other parts are replace-able.

I will check on that Monday.

I refuse to use, JB weld, as I know it wont last.

The tubes i cut are the 1-1/4" EMT Conduit.

1-1/4" EMT Conduit measurements are

1.51" OD
.065" wall X2 = .130

1.51 -.130 = 1.380 ID,

1.38" ID is .005 larger than 1-3/8"ID

This will provide you with Maximum flow

I also have some 350 degree solder in my shop, that I will try tomorrow.

If the 350 degree solder works then the 430 degree should also work.

I will be using better clamps at the Oem Manifolds,

The stock OEM manifold clamps do a lousy job, they bottom out, before clamped enough, and do not clamp round, they clamp in a almond shape.

Also a ratchet/socket will be used for tighten the clamps, to get more the torque needed, for a good seal.

Agreed.
After 30 years that rubber is too hard to make a good seal.
I had vacuum leaks there on the stock rack.

I have soaked the OEM manifold rubber ends in old brake fluid for 60-90 minutes, mine are noticeably softer.

It also makes them look like New!

The S.S. clamp helps make a much better seal.

I am going to make a second set of tube runners.

This set Will be the Best fit, & Function,

It is 6061T6 alum. tube the measurements are,

1.380" or 1-3/8" ID alum tube, this is the exact ID of the OEM Manifolds.

x 1.635" or 1-5/8" OD this is the exact OD to fit tightly into the OEM manifolds, this OD will be a very good seal using 1-1/2" ID hose, for a seal clamped over the VW manifold outlet and alum tube.

hmmmmm rather aggressive move on intake runners ......

Held the Intake runners up to the light looked through them all transitions are VERY smooth, and all are the same size.

This should put out More power than Rev.#1 did.

I will try it with my 32DFT carb. from Tom, since that carb. is my base line.

As I know, My bike ran great with this carb. and that it is jetted correctly

But i do want to try the 32/34DFT on it soon.

But i am going to have a hard time finding a carb that works as well as Tom's 32DFT does.

In looking at the VW plenum, that plenum reduces down to 1-3/16" at the outlets, that is my choke, after the carb. I don't think separate chokes in each tube will be needed.

I will polish the alum. tube runners to make them look a little nicer.

well yes that is what im running ...I have been from the start of the hooch threat getting new fuel sorce ....I called it tricking the carb ...got all kinds of flack form self appointed single carb royalties and now its coming down to doing what joedumb had said from the beginning ... just gose to show you how careful one has to be reading some of these people flat bs tech ...and mislead everyone into wasting there money on these words of useless info and attack ....

im glad this is coming full circle and the bs is starting to be seen ....I don't care about getting any title of hnowledge over this ....but the facts are and always have been ...I relied nothing on bs know it alls info .....I did everything I did on my own .... and on first try I got the bike to work sinfle carb ...I knew nothing of tom and his carb ...I knew enough about the failures and bs of the elite single failure bunch not to pay any attension to there bs .... and on first I did it ... and yes it takes chokes ... and yes its easy to see ....for me just by observation of about 10 minutes of looking at it .....I don't know how smarts are judge ...but in general judging leads to just bs ....people should look at results not a slick mouth game ....

im very surprised west that now your going with chokes and all along its like you were way the other way ....

but I am glad that crap is starting to come to light as it was posted by me on probably the first page of the hooch carb thread ......this is the number one failure of single try's .... and everyone takes this to the max with there manifold set ups ...sheesh :builder: :mrgreen: