GL1000 fork seals.

So I have three sets of forks that I want to refurbish, new seals, dust covers and rings (top of fork).

So the forks are easy to disassemble, except the fork seals. I found a blog on Randaks site and made a tool as suggested See photo later on.

These seals just don't want to come out (see pictures) all I do is rip the seal to bits and leave loads in the fork leg shroud.
I am thinking that these seals are just not moving due to corrosion or whatever. So any help on this other ideas before I get the blow torch out and start heating things up. If you click on the picture it will supersize. I know I might teach your granny to suck eggs but this is frustrating.

I would think one side of the tool would have to bite into the metal body of the seal but without going through so not to damage the seals seat or fork tube..Hmm, can the tool get underneath the seals metal body?..I am guessing not if the seal is driven in till it seats there will be a shoulder that it rest on, the only other way is to get a better bite on the seal or somehow collapse the seal with a punch but carefully so you don't damage the fork tube..can you cut anywhere an the metal part to weaken the seals hold?
Maybe collapse some of the edge and maybe the tool will get a hold of the bent seal edge better.

If you are painting or polishing the fork lowers the you may as well burn them out as that will do the least damage to the seal area.

okay guys thanks for the info right now burning seams the best way but I will hang on a while to do this.

so I have edited this post and decided to burn it out done cleaning should be easy when cold, burnt my left index finger not badly but the ally was hotter than expected, I know what an idiot I did have gloves on, but still a bit on the hot side, no damage done to the ally or me.

:thanks: for the help peops.

:yahoo:

Both seals are out now for the other 2 pairs. but going to leave those till after my hols. 27th we are gone and off to FRANCE lots of nice French food, markets , wine, sun and fun.
This time I take my fly rods and get in some trout fishing in the small rivers and streams.

But just to keep up the photo side here are a couple.



Need to clean the insides though, so going to get a long 15 inch bottle brush wide enough to clean it out, there is no ally fur as far as I can see, and the inside pipes and bits were all clean, even the springs. :good:

What about using the same type of tool you used on the caliper pistons?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=151119#p151119:71kjlkze said:

julimike54 » Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:51 pm[/url]":71kjlkze]
What about using the same type of tool you used on the caliper pistons?

Click to expand...

Ah that is a different story, I used two items a cordless drill, and a small be extended mandrill for small felt bobs. I have literally just cleaned the work top in my spare bedroom that I use for a workshop, so I will take a few photos of the mandrills I use and the drill and also the Dremmel type tool I use. Back in a bit with the pics.

so here I am back with the pics.
two or three pages here .

These arbours are about 5 inches long





my big wheels



new small felts



[attachment=0]mo paste.jpg[/attachment
polish

Some other suff...







don't know why I can't find stuff.

Now the only problem with the forks, getting the insides clean is relatively easy,. I have ordered a couple of long 25 inch x 2 inch dia brushes. I will use these to clean the insides of the fork shrouds. Just rinse them out well with acetone or degreaser, got plenty.

Once clean they will be reassembled, however, got to polish them first and maybe even have then chromed. I need to clean the stanchions a bit no rust maybe small pits but 2 or 3 over the whole stanchion is nothing. Any way over here dudes it is now 23:48 and it is time for my beauty sleep.

See you all on the morrow. Ian out.