gl1100 gas tank removal

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yes several. Remove the rear wheel, fender and inner fender,seat, fuel valve,gas cap and spill tray. Remove the rear master cylinder mount bolts and let drop but hold it at frame level with a tie of some kind. Then remove the tank mount bolts and fuel filter and fuel line. Now it should be free to move to the rear. On my 80 I also had to move some of the bag mounts for clearance.
 
well I i guess i should head out to the garage and take a look at whats involved. starting to get cold up here -20 celsius tomorrow and no heat in the garage
 
tank is cleaned carbs removed cleaned floats adjusted. back on bike and it now idles. Just got to set the idle mixture screws and sync the carbs next. hope thats it for the engine then on to the brakes
 
bobarama":yxd8uyhc said:
Nasty tank no more. Easy out and in. Cleaned it like new with $2.50 worth of toilet bowl cleaner.
Holy Mackeral! I forgot about that! Back in '79, I worked on a wooden sightseeing boat (actually was a real WWII PT Boat) and the steel fasteners would start to get rusty from the salt water on the surface of the paint. Well, the Owner didn't want a "rust bucket" looking boat so we used to clean the paint with toilet bowl cleaner and it licked that rust away for a week at a time!

(BTW, I might be hard to see, but that is me standing at the gate at the forward end near the wheelhouse with the blue jacket and yellow hat!)
 

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Steve83":2hal45ge said:
Excellent! I guess there was no rust, just crud?
Lots of crud, a little rust but that cleaner did a great job of making it all shiney.
I started the bike just tonight and am VERY happy with the results of my cheapo cleanout AND my Ebay Carb kit.
A little balance job and she'll be great!
 
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