Right pulley trick

You all know how the valve springs cause the right pulley to jump when you pull the belt. Here's an easy way to hold it, remove the bolt at the six o'clock position that holds the backplate on.

Then use a 15-17mm socket and use the belt cover bolt to hold it in the hole. It may not be perfect for timing, but holds the pulley from turning much at all. Once the new belt is ready, you can use your hand to roll it to the perfect spot.


(Pics rotated, df)

Very clever!

It's been there the whole time with no extra parts.

I have tried the zip tie trick, which is ok but this seems better.
Thanks for posting.
I'll try it on the 1200 engine when I make up the new idler pulley.

Should work on 1200, but might need a larger socket due to the spokes vs holes in the pulley. The pics I posted are from a 1200, but with 1000 heads.

Nice idea! If you do very many belt R&R's, maybe you could fabricate a piece of wood or metal to fit exactly in the pulley opening, with the hole in the right place for the bolt. Line up the marks, bolt your "Joe" in place (as in Joedrum caveman technology), and swap the belt. Cool!

I thought of making one from wood, but tried this and with the right size socket, it can't go anywhere. Just get biggest one that will still let you start the threads of the bolt.

Does that bolt line up on the left side?

When I replace my belts I back #3 Exhaust valve adjuster till the marks line up. I always adjust my valves at the same time I replace the belts.

Left side when looking at the pulley from the front. Right side when sitting on the bike. I usually back my adjusters of too, but it still will move. It is a good practice to adjust the valves at the same time.

Well I'm going to add this trick to the forum directory.

Hopefully someone someday will make use of the collection of information I've been building there. (hint to everyone)

its a very decent way to do it .....i find the biggest help for me is after i get left belt on i clamp that side so motor and t1 position dosent move ...and with all the adjusters loose and wrench on cam bolt its easy to slip on belt and push one bolt in idler in position

seems any way is good that ends up timed right on and belt tension the same :mrgreen:

Belt tension is almost a topic in itself.
If I get a chance and remember I'll post what I found when tensioning the 1200 belts in a new thread.