Carburetor Floats

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CRAFTMAN6001

CRAFTMAN6001

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I have this rack of 771A's. When I rebuilt them I thought I had gotten all the float pins clean. I have 1 carburetor that the float is sticking open. So my solution to this is removing the bowl screw and draining the fuel. Then I take a paperclip folding the end over inserting it through the hole. With gentle motion moving it to free it. It only takes a little to free it. Once its free its fine. If it sits it sticks. I haven't had a full days riding yet. That would probably fix it. Any suggestions on what I could add to the gas and how much. I just didn't want to chance the post damage. Thanks..
 
Joe's post is spot on. Instead of fiddling with the paper clip you can often free it with some tapping (okay gentle thumping) with the plastic handle of a screw driver. I'd do both. The ATF will lube it some while it cleans it further and the tapping will free up the float and needle.
 
The pins must be absolutley straight and perfectly polished. I chucked my pins in a drill and polished the sh*t out of them. I also put a little chamfer on the corners as the ends of the pins are often slightly mushroomed. The pins should slide thru the floats and the float posts easily and smoothly, with evrything dry. You should not have to drive the pins into the post or use any amount of force to push the pins thru the floats. Personally, while its still cold, I would pull the rack and ensure that all of those pins are perfect. And everything is polished.

Also, I took a same sized drill as the pin, you will have to measure to the thousandth using a micrometer, and used the drill thru the posts and floats to clean them out. I used only my fingers to drive the drill, do not drive it with a machine. You are not trying to remove any additional material from the holes, just any old varnish that has collected. Any other method imho is not really fixing the problem.

When you re assemble everything make sure the pin slides completely thru both the posts and the floats all the way through. You will never have a problem with em sticking again. Rather do it right now than when it's warm out.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142041#p142041:z144du39 said:
bronko37 » Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:17 pm[/url]":z144du39]
The pins must be absolutley straight and perfectly polished. I chucked my pins in a drill and polished the sh*t out of them. I also put a little chamfer on the corners as the ends of the pins are often slightly mushroomed. The pins should slide thru the floats and the float posts easily and smoothly, with evrything dry. You should not have to drive the pins into the post or use any amount of force to push the pins thru the floats. Personally, while its still cold, I would pull the rack and ensure that all of those pins are perfect. And everything is polished.

Also, I took a same sized drill as the pin, you will have to measure to the thousandth using a micrometer, and used the drill thru the posts and floats to clean them out. I used only my fingers to drive the drill, do not drive it with a machine. You are not trying to remove any additional material from the holes, just any old varnish that has collected. Any other method imho is not really fixing the problem.
When you re assemble everything make sure the pin slides completely thru both the posts and the floats all the way through. You will never have a problem with em sticking again. Rather do it right now than when it's warm out.
Click to expand...


Yeah I just dont want to pull them off again and take a chance on breaking the post off from driving them the wrong way. That's the only reason I didn't take them apart the first time around. Over 250.00 in the rebuild kit on that alone.. I think I will give the back yard tech first. I have nothing to loose this way . and it won't take to long to go through a tank of gas anyway. Also drained the oil back out of the bike. Added the ATF and the oil back into her. She is already improving on the sticking rings.. And How I do like that.. However, If I must dive into it again Then I will do just that.. Thank's for your reply.. Ps got more parts.Vetter radio cover OEM NOS complete with the original box. My Vetter Wor Shop Badges that is the really cool part..
 

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When taking the float pins out a simple paneling nail, you know the ones that come in white and brown, with the point filed flat works really well. Use a tiny hammer and have the rack sitting on top of rags so it can "float" across ur bench as you tap cautiously on the pins. Try them in one direction and if they do not move fairly easily, try the other direction. This worked super well for me. Those pins have a burr on one side that will make them tuff to drive out for one dirction. The burr is from manufacturing but does not need to be there. Dress it off so everything slides perfectly.

I hope the backyard tech works out for ya but if It doesn't it won't be that bad a fix, so long as you got smart hands right joe :Egyptian:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142054#p142054:38aib9k8 said:
bronko37 » Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:58 pm[/url]":38aib9k8]
When taking the float pins out a simple paneling nail, you know the ones that come in white and brown, with the point filed flat works really well. Use a tiny hammer and have the rack sitting on top of rags so it can "float" across ur bench as you tap cautiously on the pins. Try them in one direction and if they do not move fairly easily, try the other direction. This worked super well for me. Those pins have a burr on one side that will make them tuff to drive out for one dirction. The burr is from manufacturing but does not need to be there. Dress it off so everything slides perfectly.

I hope the backyard tech works out for ya but if It doesn't it won't be that bad a fix, so long as you got smart hands right joe :Egyptian:
Click to expand...
you are so correct I have the perfect hammer for the job Have a look at this little guy.. Ha..
 

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