more wiring questions

I am far from getting anything good accomplished on my 78 goldwing.I have gotten rid of 3 bikes before because I have destroyed the wiring trying to make it work properly.I ruined a suziki gs 1000 when I took a fairing off and could not figure how how the rats nest of wiring inside the healight went together.I completely cooked and melted a wiring harness in a suzuki gs 850 after i put a new solenoid on it.I had no choice, it had no solenoid,had been removed and lost.I took a fairng off a yamaha 83 model venture.once again the fairing company wiring i ruined.I guess for one thing if it has a fairing on it,leave it.But here are my basic questions
1.if I find a wire that is frayed, has bare spots,what is the best remedy.Replacing the whole wire will not be possible most times in the original color.And i already know about the company called vintage connections.
2.How come sometimes a black wire is hot and sometimes it is a ground.
3.What gauge wire is used for what.I know the wire going from the regulator/rectifier is larger than the rest of them.It seems like the wires to many things is small gauge and some are slightly larger gauge.I also already know about the M unit.
4.I have read many times always have a good ground wire connection.I also have leaned many times there is one ground wire running from front to back so if one part fails they all fail.
5.I have been told many times get a multimeter,learn how to use it.The get one part is easy.learning how to use it is the hard part.

I realize these are generalized questions and would take many pages to answer.I just bought a used harness off ebay because the one I have has had some of my type of repairs done on it, so i know they can't be right.Those of you that know wiring think this stuff is simple.Its like greek to me.I printed off a colored wiring diagram.Might as well be printed in arabic.I appreciate any input.I have too many threads started on this forum.I promise to not start any more.Hopefully.

My best advice to you sir. Get some liquid electrical tape to cover any open parts of wiring. And find a friend that can read a schematic and multi meter.

My advice is bite tha bullet and pay sumbody who knows what they're doing Bro. Saves Money and lots aggravation in tha long run.Electrical is not newbee friendly and can be dangerous.https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=11627

1. You can spot tape or use heatshrink to patch shoddy or damaged insulation.
2. Black positive (active) is an American AC wiring thing that has transferred to many DC circuits ( electric trailer brake controllers and no2 terminal in our trailer plugs ( accessory feed or reverse lights))
3. Think of wiring like water pipes, the bigger the pipe the more flow/power. That being said many manufactures of componets and harnesses use wires that are readily available and you sometimes have heavier gauge wire being used where it is not required. This becomes apparent where you plug a device or two sections of harness together and they have different gauge wire on opposite sides of the plug connection.
4. Sounds like a Suzuki harness! :smilie_happy:
5. Google and YouTube are your friends.

I have too many threads started on this forum.I promise to not start any more.

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Naw, you can never have too many threads going! Each thread on a different topic helps you and others to learn about that item. It is the main reason for the forum!

In a nutshell, I have been rebuilding my '82 wire harness and have this to offer;

*The wires from the battery to the key are 14 gauge.

*The wires from the fuse box to various parts on the bike vary from 20 gauge to 18 gauge depending on the amperage of the circuit.

*The dark green wire is the ground wire where ever it is found in the harness.

*The black wires are nearly always positive and all originate at the main black wire that comes from the ignition switch to the fuse box. (Black and white are also power and are normally at the igniters and coils). This black wire comes out of the ignition switch but is really a continuation of the red wire from the battery.

*In the headlight bucket, all of the bullet connectors will be color coded. Honda uses standard color coding for all wires.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180609#p180609:2s5im0fg said:

mcgovern61 » Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:08 am[/url]":2s5im0fg]

I have too many threads started on this forum.I promise to not start any more.

Click to expand...

Naw, you can never have too many threads going! Each thread on a different topic helps you and others to learn about that item. It is the main reason for the forum!

In a nutshell, I have been rebuilding my '82 wire harness and have this to offer;

*The wires from the battery to the key are 14 gauge.

*The wires from the fuse box to various parts on the bike vary from 20 gauge to 18 gauge depending on the amperage of the circuit.

*The dark green wire is the ground wire where ever it is found in the harness.

*The black wires are nearly always positive and all originate at the main black wire that comes from the ignition switch to the fuse box. (Black and white are also power and are normally at the igniters and coils). This black wire comes out of the ignition switch but is really a continuation of the red wire from the battery.

*In the headlight bucket, all of the bullet connectors will be color coded. Honda uses standard color coding for all wires.

Click to expand...

:good:

Thank you for all the help.I have been on you tube a lot since i posted this question.As far as finding someone to help me that has never been possible for me in the last 20 years.here is my knowledge base: on automotive, I have replaced rings,rod bearings,mains,clutch,pressure plates throwout bearings,u joints,shocks,rear ends,transmission lines,transmissions,modulator valves,and some more I dont remember.That stuff all makes sense.its all the same color.it doesnt change from a color on one end to a different one on the other end.I replaced on an 80 suzuki gs 1000 the head gasket,cylinder base gasket, it ran great.Try getting one of those in time sometime. But wiring aaaggghhhh.Makes no sense.You guys posts are definitely making it less foggy.I found a great video just now of a guy completely from scratch rewiring an old yamaha.Just like the one i destroyed almost.It was kind of funny in the end.He got it running,then his left turn signal stopped working.Thank you all.I also just learned the proper way to solder and shrinkwrap.baby steps.

If you cannot find help. There is plenty here. Post your questions and wait for the responses. Question the responses until it is clear to you. Then do exactly what is suggested. Eventually wiring will get to be a manageable thing. Maybe even fun but I doubt it.

"Maybe even fun but I doubt it." true that.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180608#p180608:2aq6v511 said:

Ansimp » Wed Sep 14, 2016 2:06 pm[/url]":2aq6v511]
1. You can spot tape or use heatshrink to patch shoddy or damaged insulation.
2. Black positive (active) is an American AC wiring thing that has transferred to many DC circuits ( electric trailer brake controllers and no2 terminal in our trailer plugs ( accessory feed or reverse lights))
3. Think of wiring like water pipes, the bigger the pipe the more flow/power. That being said many manufactures of componets and harnesses use wires that are readily available and you sometimes have heavier gauge wire being used where it is not required. This becomes apparent where you plug a device or two sections of harness together and they have different gauge wire on opposite sides of the plug connection.
4. Sounds like a Suzuki harness! :smilie_happy:
5. Google and YouTube are your friends.

Click to expand...

I have a 79 cb650 parts bike, so the wires in that harness might be useable in this one as needed,correct?

No. :BigGrin: Heres a decent looking one https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-1979-78-79 ... 0685636608
Good Luck Bro :good:

Check here for good video how to use a multi-meter cgwindex.php#misc_references_outside_the_forum

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180643#p180643:2dryod1z said:

dan filipi » Thu Sep 15, 2016 5:32 am[/url]":2dryod1z]
Check here for good video how to use a multi-meter cgwindex.php#misc_references_outside_the_forum

Click to expand...

I started watching it.I am bone tired.Just got off a 12 hour night shift.But it looks great.thanks for the link.I will watch it sometime this evening.

I watched the multimeter video.great video.However, I do not know when to use ac.dc.ohms.How do I find that out? example:Is my headlight bulb any good? Well if it lights up its good as far as i am concerned.But he used one scale for it and another for like a diode and sparkplug wire.This seems very learnable, I have just never seen it before.I also did not know what a diode was except by name.I do not when they are used and why.But if one is part of an open circuit I now know how to check and see if it is any good or not.

AC is alternating current like found in the house wiring and stator output. DC is direct current found in most of the circuits of your bike and car. Ohms measures resistance on circuits not powered.Using ohm on an active (powered) circuit will burn up the meter. Example headlight bulb in your hand with no wires will not light. Ohm setting on meter black lead to the ground terminal and red lead to either high or low beam. If the needle doesn't move or the readout remains zero that beam is no good. If readout changes it is good. Actual readout will vary depending on the setting and actual resistance of the circuit. Diode is like a check valve for electricity. Useful in converting the ac from the stator to the dc the bike needs to operate.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180765#p180765:1w413koz said:

slabghost » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:58 am[/url]":1w413koz]
AC is alternating current like found in the house wiring and stator output. DC is direct current found in most of the circuits of your bike and car. Ohms measures resistance on circuits not powered.Using ohm on an active (powered) circuit will burn up the meter. Example headlight bulb in your hand with no wires will not light. Ohm setting on meter black lead to the ground terminal and red lead to either high or low beam. If the needle doesn't move or the readout remains zero that beam is no good. If readout changes it is good. Actual readout will vary depending on the setting and actual resistance of the circuit. Diode is like a check valve for electricity. Useful in converting the ac from the stator to the dc the bike needs to operate.

Click to expand...

I appreciate the xplanation but i only understood part of it.No matter.Right now i am trying to do so many other things.question: ohms on circuits not powered.you mean circuits as in wires that run from one place to another, have some connectors to one place or another and their power-electrical charge-started from the battery? But they are not powered? Define not powered.And why does anyone need to know what ohms something has.I know these are simplistic questions, but I am at ground zero.If I understand ground correctly.

:smilie_happy: yep i understand totally.... :mrgreen:

All the circuits on the bike are powered at one time or another. Remove the battery or disconnect it and all circuits are still there but "unpowered" Meter uses it's own battery to induce a charge through the wire or device being tested. You are generally testing for continuity when trouble shooting with ohms. Certain tests of specific devices like switches or diodes need specific meter settings and readings. A switch with a high ohms reading indicates resistance and power loss. New switches will have very little resistance. So the answer to "why" you need to know resistance. Is to understand why you have say 9 volts at each coil when you have read 13 volts at the battery. You've lost a total of 4 volts between the battery and the coils. Due to the combined resistance of each connection and to some extent deteriorated wire between the two points.
As stated before. Wiring can be understood in relation to plumbing. Resistance in plumbing could be build up inside the pipes. Say a half inch pipe has calcified to the point it has only a one quarter inch open passage. You will then get only half the flow it had originally.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180794#p180794:21f71dd6 said:

slabghost » Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:11 pm[/url]":21f71dd6]
All the circuits on the bike are powered at one time or another. Remove the battery or disconnect it and all circuits are still there but "unpowered" Meter uses it's own battery to induce a charge through the wire or device being tested. You are generally testing for continuity when trouble shooting with ohms. Certain tests of specific devices like switches or diodes need specific meter settings and readings. A switch with a high ohms reading indicates resistance and power loss. New switches will have very little resistance. So the answer to "why" you need to know resistance. Is to understand why you have say 9 volts at each coil when you have read 13 volts at the battery. You've lost a total of 4 volts between the battery and the coils. Due to the combined resistance of each connection and to some extent deteriorated wire between the two points.
As stated before. Wiring can be understood in relation to plumbing. Resistance in plumbing could be build up inside the pipes. Say a half inch pipe has calcified to the point it has only a one quarter inch open passage. You will then get only half the flow it had originally.

Click to expand...

You would make a great teacher.That is a very complicated concept and you made it perfectly understandable to me.fyi i am kinda in the plumbing business.I am a registered nurse last 40 years.I work in ICU taking care of open heart surgery and many peripheral vascular surgery patients.Their plumbing gets clogged, the surgeon unclogs or bypasses the clog, and we test for flow and continuity.If the flow stays good, they go home.So I relate to your answer.And i appreciate all the good information.

pictures of my second 78 replacement.Will be much easier to get going than my rusted parts bike.The bike must have had addon fairings etc.The former owner, about 2 guys back, took all that off.he changed to small signals,small tailight,but these pictures show tons of wires with bullet connectors not plugged into anything.please help.I also dont know how to create a pointer on pictures.But hopefully the unplugged connectors will show someone what is undone.probably many items on a stock wing are not needed.