Turn signal finally worked- NOW NO POWER AT ALL

I have been having a front right turn signal problem and no self cancelling. I had turn signals on the other 3 places-front left, and both rears ONLY on low beam.

Tonight I went for a 20 mile ride and presto the turn signals worked. Self healing after 6 months. I was tickled.

Went into the store and came out to ride home-NOTHING_ no lights, no gauges, no nothing. Looked at main fuse and all the other fuses. Looked good. Tried jump start from a car-nothing.

2 hours waiting for the tow truck. Thank Goodness for GWRRA road side assistance. Towed me right to my garage at home at no charge.

I have replaced the dog bone with the spade fuse couple of years ago. Have no idea where to start looking
Please give me some advice on where to start.

83 GL1100 with Honda fairing.

Thank You

First, battery and cables should be clean and tight. You should have full voltage on both lugs of the main fuse. A good, clean ground between the battery and frame is a must. The ignition switch should always have full voltage at the red wire. The ignition switch wiring is accessible behind the fairing weight, or inside the headlight bucket.

Will the ignition switch prevent all current to everything?
I have checked grounds, and battery when I traced all the wires for my turn signal problem.

My wife says that since the turn signal worked it finally burnt out the wire that has been causing blinker problem.

Yes it will. The main power feeds from the fuse at the starter relay to the ignition switch. There are wiring diagrams in the Gallery if you're interested.

I have the schematics in my manual.

Will take fairing off and check the wires under the weight tomorrow.
Thanks for a start for my electrical gremlin that seems to be growing.

Check the plug on the ignition switch. It would kill all power.
Brady

yes wes this is starting to spread a bit im sure its really simple ..but going to be bugger to find we will get it found ... these dressers have one bad thing thy a bitch to get striped ....id say that it will be really easy to find problem now as its not working the bike at all now .....id say the power wire to igniting switch is place to start also

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131178#p131178:3jg6fpkg said:

wilcoy02 » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:06 pm[/url]":3jg6fpkg]
Looked at main fuse and all the other fuses. Looked good. Tried jump start from a car-nothing.

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Looking at a fuse does not tell you if it is making contact on both sides. You need to put a multimeter on both side of all fuses to determine if the fuse is actually good. Corrosion, or loose terminals can cause no contact, even if the fuse tests out as good. Double check all of your connections. :good:

yep it a wire or fuse or something ....what apple said is right need meter to find this bad whatever..... seloniod and fuse right there sounds first spot to go after

This bike has the external alternator? Might want to check the wiring for that too.

To test your fuse in place.. Turn key on.. set meter for 20v dc.. place lead on each side of fuse.. if it is good it will not read any if at all voltage... if you have 12 volts then fuse is bad.. meter has more resistance then fuse.. electricity takes path of least resistance.. (Thanks to my BS in EET Degree)... if you aren't sure then pull one end of the fuse out and check that side contact.. if no voltage at main fuse problem is elsewhere in system..

The problem lies in the starter switch assembly. I replaced the dog bone with a spade fuse holder several years ago.
I replaced it with a $7.00 cheapo holder. It bit the dust rather quickly. Replaced it with a $20 holder and it lasted a couple of years. It is in the base of the holder. Move it a little and the power is back. Move it a little again and no power.

Is there a way to direct wire and get rid of this assembly? If not can anyone give me a good place to get an assembly that will last? I have located a Honda oem blade holder for $70.

And when the assembly is ready to go out the turn signal works fine for about 5 seconds. Can this be connected to each other?

Thanks for all the input.

sheesh this bike sounds like the hooch bike early on with the electric trouble i had ... what a nightmare it can be ....ultimately a bad wire shorted to another wire would be off and on short under the tape of the wiring harness it was the stator wire that went to the voltage regulator from the stator....it was effecting the stator output and seemed to effect lights and signals and ignition also ....

I put a 30 amp circuit breaker on mine after burning 2 blade fuse holders.
No more troubles.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131229#p131229:65x3e59m said:

dan filipi » Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:54 am[/url]":65x3e59m]
I put a 30 amp circuit breaker on mine after burning 2 blade fuse holders.
No more troubles.

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+1 on auto reset circuit breakers

Can you tell me how to hook up a circuit breaker up? Where do the 4 wires get attached?

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=131240#p131240:2f2dstkg said:

wilcoy02 » Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:58 pm[/url]":2f2dstkg]
Can you tell me how to hook up a circuit breaker up? Where do the 4 wires get attached?

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Are you referring to the 4 wire plug that goes on the solenoid? If so go from the battery terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery terminal on your circuit breaker and then put the heavy red wire and red/white wire onto the accessory terminal
Replacing where the fuse went originally.

Wire from alternator goes to one side and the large red wire goes to same terminal ... the other side to battery.. at least a 30 amp.. if not a 40 amp breaker depending on accessory loading..

yes. This is where my problem lies. When I move the base of where the 4 wires are- that is when I lose/gain power. Putting in the breaker looks simple enough.
But where does the 4 wires go? if this piece is removed?

4 wires going to a fuse have to separate to two terminals. They connect to the breaker the same way.