Building Harbor Freight trailer- modification question

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KYWinger

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I've just finished putting a trailer hitch on the bike and now it's time to get the trailer -

https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-cap ... 66771.html
That's what I'm going to build, but I have a question for the trailer guru's - :help: how do I lengthen the tongue to allow space to put a cooler on it? :help:
I'm guessing that if I use a modest size cooler, I'll have to add about 2 feet to the trailer.
I'll build a frame from angle iron to hold the cooler, once the tongue is lengthened.
Suggestions?

:thanks: thanx in advance
:thanks:
 
Check out post # 19 under Harbor Freight Trailer build, it shows how I lengthened mine. Basicaly you move the tongue forward and bolt it up, but I still wanted to catch that middle runner with the end of the tongue for the extra strength. It's got pictures showing how I did it. Good luck with it, it's a blast building one.
 
If I remember correctly all you have to do is move the tougne ahead 24" then redrill for the bolts. Someone with morexperience in this area should be along shortly. I built my frame from scratch as that frame is not available in Canada. Some of the members have even narrowed the frame by cuting the fron & rear frame members down to length & redrilling. But doing this means that you have to narrow your axle unles it had torsion suspension. To narrow the axle, just cut the tubing in half & shorten one side by the amt you are narrowing, drill a couple of holes about 3" apart in either end (cut ends), find a piece of steel bar that will slide tightly into the square tubing, make sure spring pads are aligned & then weld ths joint. Holes drill in the ends are for plug welds. Hope this all helps. Cheers Angela
 

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I did not lengthen the tongue on mine and had a cooler on it.No problem and towed great.
I did narrow it becuase I did not like the look of the roof top carrier with the extra width of the trailor.But I did not do it like fysty.The axle is a channel with a solid stub welded into the end.I cut the weld,cut the length off one end,and rewelded in the stub.
 

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Tory":3bc10a9k said:
I did not lengthen the tongue on mine and had a cooler on it.No problem and towed great.
I did narrow it becuase I did not like the look of the roof top carrier with the extra width of the trailor.But I did not do it like fysty.The axle is a channel with a solid stub welded into the end.I cut the weld,cut the length off one end,and rewelded in the stub.
Just as a correction Tory. I did not do what I had suggested as my frame & suspesion were built from scratch not some kit. My axle is a 2" square tube with Dodge mini van rear hubs.
What I suggested was what I had read on the many forums that I am on.
 

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KYWinger,

I'm not a trailer guru but, I've owned two motorcycle trailers in the past. A CycleKamp on a '77 and a Bushtec on a '94. I won't comment on your project as I've only purchased factory produced trailers. However, I wanted to ask if you've ever towed a trailer behind a M/C? If you have, disregard my post, if not, please consider the following:

Pulling a trailer behind a motorcycle is a very new experience. I'm sure you've towed a trailer behind your car, right? Well, it's not like that. Rule #1 with a motorcycle trailer is tongue weight. You must get this right. You must maintain a consistent 9 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW) at the hitch. The same rule applies to a truck/trailer combination but, it's more critical with a motorcycle because you only have two wheels. To little tongue weight and the trailer is more liable to push you around in a hard stop. Too much tongue weight and the trailer can make the front end of your bike too light causing other handling issues. Rule #2 is to always use both your front and rear brakes together and never use only the front brake. As you know, using only the front brake causes increased front end dive. If you do this with a trailer behind you, the rear of the bike gets lighter and the trailer (because it has no brakes) can then push you right around. Good luck with your project.
 
KYWinger":39qsefel said:
I've just finished putting a trailer hitch on the bike and now it's time to get the trailer -

https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-cap ... 66771.html
That's what I'm going to build, but I have a question for the trailer guru's - :help: how do I lengthen the tongue to allow space to put a cooler on it? :help:
I'm guessing that if I use a modest size cooler, I'll have to add about 2 feet to the trailer.
I'll build a frame from angle iron to hold the cooler, once the tongue is lengthened.
Suggestions?

:thanks: thanx in advance
:thanks:
I have assembled several HF trailers, this tag along trailer frame looks to be different than your 8" wheel type or 12" wheel type with the 40"x48" frame , on those frames you can move the center cross bar up to the next holes which is 10" to extend the length of the tongue bar, if someone were to do that they would need to drill out two new holes in the tongue bar is all, relocating those two sets of holes, now on the back set of holes ones you don't need to do a thing to those, you may not be able to do this with the tag along type frame though, I never had one of those so I don't know .. if not,what you could do is find another tongue bar the same size, a longer one and simply drill out your vin#plates and reattach them using a pop rivet set to your new bar....Or just order and build the 40"x48" frame one for a lot less money and build it from scratch.......But whatever you do have fun man.. :clapping:
 
Thanks for all the replies!

The reason I'd decided on that particular trailer was mostly economics:
I have a 20% off coupon, so the cost drops from $399.99 to $319.99.

If I went with the 40X49 Harbor Freight trailer
https://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html
That one would be $143.99 with a 20% discount.
Then I'd need to hit up Sears for a car top carrier:
https://www.sears.com/x-cargo-car-top-carrier/p-02807271000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
That's currently $144

So I'm at about $290 and I still have to fabricate a platform on the trailer to mount the carrier and perhaps narrow the frame.

My thinking was that for just a few dollars more, I'd have a matched package that does not need to be modified (except perhaps tongue length).

Does that make sense to anyone but me? LMAO
 
backlander - I think it is a recent offering; I don't recall seeing it when I first started looking at getting a trailer either. I believe it's an economical small trailer for a Gold Wing. Add a cooler and a spare tire and you're good to go! :good:
 
Other than extending the tongue, I also took the small leaf spring out of each side to soften the ride and I mounted the axle on top of the springs to lower the ride height and center of gravity. If you have to assemble it, make sure your axle ends are square with the center of your ball coupler so it will pull true.
 
Placerville":2r147a72 said:
Rule #2 is to always use both your front and rear brakes together and never use only the front brake. As you know, using only the front brake causes increased front end dive. If you do this with a trailer behind you, the rear of the bike gets lighter and the trailer (because it has no brakes) can then push you right around.
I do not have a trailer, but couldn't they be fitted with those electric trailer brakes that operate off the brake light signal?
 
Electric brakes don't need very much power, especially the smaller ones. I think the battery would handle it.
Certainly looks doable for not all that much money. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/ ... 23-27.html
Course need the other parts also. Might be better and less $ to find a complete axle with brakes and wheels complete then cut it down. Maybe from an old popup trailer?
 
littlebeaver":3j7oq9fo said:
KYWinger":3j7oq9fo said:
I've just finished putting a trailer hitch on the bike and now it's time to get the trailer -

https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-cap ... 66771.html
That's what I'm going to build, but I have a question for the trailer guru's - :help: how do I lengthen the tongue to allow space to put a cooler on it? :help:
I'm guessing that if I use a modest size cooler, I'll have to add about 2 feet to the trailer.
I'll build a frame from angle iron to hold the cooler, once the tongue is lengthened.
Suggestions?

:thanks: thanx in advance
:thanks:
....Or just order and build the 40"x48" frame one for a lot less money and build it from scratch.......But whatever you do have fun man.. :clapping:
Mine didn't cost me a penny. A friend took my plans & withing 14 hours had the frame sitting on my lawn. :yahoo: Guess he had a boring night @ work. He is a welder. & works the PM shift. Gave hime a bottle of his fav. Vodka. hehehehehe :Egyptian: :Egyptian:
 
I have a friend who added trailor brakes on his camper and they work well.Just has them adjusted to add a bit of drag,not lock up.
 

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mcgovern61":bs2y4wp6 said:
I do not have a trailer, but couldn't they be fitted with those electric trailer brakes that operate off the brake light signal?

I am currently modifying (down-sizing) a 14 foot boat trailer so that I can use it as a cargo trailer for the bike and Jeep or boat trailer by simply changing the tongue: I am almost finished with it, but I did a bit of research because I was worried about the size/weight of the trailer.

In the process of researching things, I was communicating with a guy that uses a larger boat trailer as his bike's trailer. He usually has a 7 foot box on the trailer and he has even towed a GL1100 on the trailer with his GL1500. He has electric breaks on the trailer and claims that with the electic breaks he can get the bike/trailer stopped in the same distance as just the bike without the trailer.

I am at a weight/size now where I don't think I am going to have to worry about the electric breaks, but at least I know I can do it if I need to.
 

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brianinpa":2b2iw354 said:
mcgovern61":2b2iw354 said:
I do not have a trailer, but couldn't they be fitted with those electric trailer brakes that operate off the brake light signal?

I am currently modifying (down-sizing) a 14 foot boat trailer so that I can use it as a cargo trailer for the bike and Jeep or boat trailer by simply changing the tongue: I am almost finished with it, but I did a bit of research because I was worried about the size/weight of the trailer.

In the process of researching things, I was communicating with a guy that uses a larger boat trailer as his bike's trailer. He usually has a 7 foot box on the trailer and he has even towed a GL1100 on the trailer with his GL1500. He has electric breaks on the trailer and claims that with the electic breaks he can get the bike/trailer stopped in the same distance as just the bike without the trailer.

I am at a weight/size now where I don't think I am going to have to worry about the electric breaks, but at least I know I can do it if I need to.
Nice looking setup Brian but I am concerned about the amt of wieght on the tounge. That dog carrier looks rather large. I have a fish scale that I use to adjust the tounge wieght as I have been told & read that it should not exceed 40#. Cheers Angela
 
That isn't mine! That is way too big for me. That is the trailer that has the electric breaks and I posted it to show just how big of a trailer can be towed behind a Wing.

Here is where I am at with mine. I am currently working on the bed and rails that will hold the cargo bag. It is roughly the same size as yours.
 

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