1980 GL1100 blown head gasket Again! Fixed!

looking good from here

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146721#p146721:1xmbkrn9 said:

brianinpa » Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:38 am[/url]":1xmbkrn9]
Well, I am impressed!

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Me too! Very nice job :good:

looks great! I knew you could do it! How's it look now with your linear gage? Black it again and use you big glass sanding block in a swirl motion over the whole surface. When the black is gone you should be ready for gasket But I suggest you black the head and sand it too. Just to be certain.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146751#p146751:1gxoyyx1 said:

slabghost » Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:14 pm[/url]":1gxoyyx1]
looks great! I knew you could do it! How's it look now with your linear gage? Black it again and use you big glass sanding block in a swirl motion over the whole surface. When the black is gone you should be ready for gasket But I suggest you black the head and sand it too. Just to be certain.

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+1 :head bang:

Dont forget to blow/clean out then chase the head bolt threads when all done, You didn't take much off but the head bolts will go in a tiny bit more, two index fingers should be able to screw each bolt in smoothly.
Congrats on the progress..Way to hang in there..I have seen many throw in the towel in situations like these.

I'm no expert and learned something from this. Cool tip. Anyone else think it might be worth taking a little more off? I am looking at 8 o'clock on the front cylinder and 4 o'clock on the rear. It seems this is a weak point in where head gaskets fail. There is a slight groove still showing there. Since you're that close.....

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146860#p146860:2n9040qb said:

ekvh » Tue Apr 21, 2015 11:06 am[/url]":2n9040qb]
I'm no expert and learned something from this. Cool tip. Anyone else think it might be worth taking a little more off? I am looking at 8 o'clock on the front cylinder and 4 o'clock on the rear. It seems this is a weak point in where head gaskets fail. There is a slight groove still showing there. Since you're that close.....

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He`s not done yet, he said he was going to finish it off with a flat glass and emery cloth, that should finish it up nicely.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146860#p146860:1am4bu3i said:

ekvh » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:06 pm[/url]":1am4bu3i]
I'm no expert and learned something from this. Cool tip. Anyone else think it might be worth taking a little more off? I am looking at 8 o'clock on the front cylinder and 4 o'clock on the rear. It seems this is a weak point in where head gaskets fail. There is a slight groove still showing there. Since you're that close.....

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I would still work the file more as well before I started in with my flat stone. That glass with that fine of a grit of emery is just not going to take very much material at all. If he worked that 800grit paper on a stone for several hours I would be surprised if he could remove a full .001" from that surface. I think you should work the file lightly until you have a full 100% clean up on that mating surface, then hit it with the fine stuff to perfect that surface.

Wish I had seen this before I replaced any of mine. Looks like a must do to me from now on.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146751#p146751:16qhxvhk said:

slabghost » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:14 am[/url]":16qhxvhk]
looks great! I knew you could do it! How's it look now with your linear gage? Black it again and use you big glass sanding block in a swirl motion over the whole surface. When the black is gone you should be ready for gasket But I suggest you black the head and sand it too. Just to be certain.

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I did take the head in & have it milled a couple of weeks ago but not a bad idea to just check it.
And I did go back over the block again with the file & then on Wed I got a display mirror from Michaels (where I work P/T) so I got one that was damaged on the bevel (which won’t make any difference while sanding) so I got $1 off the $4.99 price & then my 30% discount. So it cost me $3. Then yesterday I bought some more wet/dry sandpaper. I started sanding with swirling motion with 2 sheets of 150 grit, then 2 sheets of 220 grit, then 2 sheets of 320 grit, then 2 sheets of 400 grit.
Today I'll use the dye again & use the 600 grit with the mirror & see how I did.
TNX for all the great ideas & all the help.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146864#p146864:25taki6k said:

ekvh » Tue Apr 21, 2015 2:15 pm[/url]":25taki6k]
Wish I had seen this before I replaced any of mine. Looks like a must do to me from now on.

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Yeah, this is a pretty good "How to..." After just changing my head gaskets, I hope I don't need it for a while.

I got it all back together late last night (all but the radiator) and I had pulled the tailpipes apart & they did not go back on together just right. I could see the new exhaust & the nuts don't go on all the way on the left side. So I started it up for a few sec & you can hear an exhaust leak. So I'm going to loosen everything up (mainly the center) & try to tap with a rubber mallet & a 2x4 with a rag on it to adjust the side to side.
Has anyone had this happen?

With four ring gaskets on pipes I'm sure it's rather common. I've not had my wing exhaust off yet but other models have had their issues in refitting.

I have dropped the pipes down before and they always go right back up in place, but this is the 1st time I pulled them apart.

Probably fit better with the joint loose. Then after fit and tightened then tighten the joint.

I didn't go out there to work on it today, so I'll try that tomorrow.
TNX

Okay, I put it all back together and took it for a short 25 mile ride and I don't think I had enough anti-freeze because it ran hot. I put more anti-freeze in the reservoir and I'm going to ride again today. Also I think my 7.5 volt regulator is starting to act up because my temp and gas gauges where doing funny things. I'm going to do some research on the regulator and go out & check it with my DVM.

Be sure to get the air out of the cooling system and the hose to the reservoir is sealed so it draws back coolant on cool down. Whenever I drain coolant I always start with radiator cap off and fill it as it warms until it overflows then put the cap on.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147948#p147948:jmbuzemr said:

slabghost » Mon May 04, 2015 7:22 am[/url]":jmbuzemr]
Be sure to get the air out of the cooling system and the hose to the reservoir is sealed so it draws back coolant on cool down. Whenever I drain coolant I always start with radiator cap off and fill it as it warms until it overflows then put the cap on.

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+1 :good:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147948#p147948:3qxhacek said:

slabghost » 22 minutes ago[/url]":3qxhacek]
Be sure to get the air out of the cooling system and the hose to the reservoir is sealed so it draws back coolant on cool down. Whenever I drain coolant I always start with radiator cap off and fill it as it warms until it overflows then put the cap on.

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I fill it the same way.
Every time I've filled like this, once the thermostat opens, the radiator level drops needing topped up then I put cap on.