Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

Will try and pull head this weekend. Also, if the block needs to be squared up, I will have to purchase a file and machinist rule ( will need advice as to what kind to get). I did watch Bronco's video on drawfiling technique which was helpful, if it comes to that.

A long cut Nicholson mill file would work just dandy....the finer the cut the better

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=163561#p163561:uzdsbubt said:

bronko37 » Thu Nov 26, 2015 11:58 am[/url]":uzdsbubt]
A long cut Nicholson mill file would work just dandy....the finer the cut the better

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Agreed! Fine cut takes longer but won't need much finishing. Most machinist rules I've seen are only six inches. The steel rule on a like new combination square works well and Harbor Freight has 12" metal rulers too. :BigGrin:

When talking about such a small space as .004 and less I wouldn't trust a combo square like those used in carpentry to be true enough. I'd stick with a machinist ruler.

Harbor freight has a 12" stainless steel ruler for $2.. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools ... ruler.html

When checking for space with feeler gauges, mark any spot you find with a sharpy then flip the ruler over to the other edge and recheck in the exact same position. That should verify the ruler trueness. I question the quality of everything from Harbor Freight.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=163571#p163571:2qtgzphm said:

dan filipi » Thu Nov 26, 2015 12:59 pm[/url]":2qtgzphm]
I question the quality of everything from Harbor Freight.

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- - - - - - ditto - - - - - -


As do I!!!!

Drained fluids to prep for left head removal. Thought I would show you this. The jug on the right was antifreeze removed right after the head gasket change not before (obvious traces of oil). The jug on the left is what just came out. Puzzling, unless the jug on right just had some oil residue from within radiator and coolant passages.
Also , today's oil from engine of course, was nice and clear. So, with that being said, no oil in coolant and no coolant in oil, but still bad head gasket??
Oh, this is with the new radiator install as well, the jug on the right was with the old radiator.

I'm in the process of doing the same thing you are. Got the right side head off at this point. Here's a look at the rad cap and oil film in the reservoir.
The coolant I drained out is pretty and green...no oily film, or mixing. The oil & coolant have to be in the system mixing for quite a while before it turns into a milkshake. On the other hand, coolant getting into the oil is a totally different can o worms, since there are far more moving/rotating parts involved that will mix the two liquids much quicker, and keep them agitated longer, producing the milkshake concoction.
When I did this the last time, a few years back, I used a coolant flush after I got it all back together, to make sure the inside of the block, and all of the coolant passages were clean of any oil residue....might be something you can consider doing, once you get it all back together & running, with no other problems. :yes:

Just removed left head. Gasket virtually fell off and is in one piece. Here's a pic of head. Notice orange discoloration top left. What does that mean? That cylinders spark plug smells like gas too. Is it possible that if a cylinder is flooded and i guess not firing, that could prevent a newly installed gasket to not seal correctly or am I grasping at straws here.

If it were flooding and not firing the exhaust would have choked you with the smell of raw gasoline.

well something going on there ....totally different than other cylinder ....so all the color is new ...seems to be trying to blow through or piston seal on top left ...the cylinder wall arnt that wide

Checked engine block and it is right on. No low spots anywhere. Just thinking ahead, I will go with OEM head gasket this time, also , where might i find the little oil orfice o-rings , no need to by an entire kit.

Update, found them on bikebandit, ridiculously priced though.

Can see that discoloration is right at the water jacket hole. Are you certain all the head bolts are tightening? Especially that one. Clean up everything and do a dry fit without the gasket to make sure the head bolts are tightening down on the head.

I was very careful with the sequencing of each bolt. I will go back and dry fit and see but sure bolts were tightening well.

I had a guide pin once prevent the head from tightening down completely.

No matter how tight the bolts are they wont flatten out the low spots on the head.

Very true but that discoloration suggests to me that a large area of the head wasn't being pulled down tight to the block. Even a perfectly flat head and block will leak if there is some obstruction or the head bolt(s) aren't getting torqued against the head.

For what it's worth, the dowels on the right head were already in the block and when i placed the gasket on the block , it was a piece of cake.
The left however, had one dowel in the head and one in the block and it was tricky lining everything up. I really want to ditch this head and try a different one.

Find a bolt or drill that will fill that pin in the head. Use vise grips or a good pipe wrench to remove it and then get installed on the block.

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just took Dan's advice and cleaned up both. Installed without gasket and there does appear to be obstruction top left corner. I have not removed the dowel yet from head but will do that next. I did install the head the first time without heat shield attached since in his video he mentions minimizing any obstructions. I do have the heat shiel on now, so that could be it or the dowel. We might be onto something here.