Tappet noise (?) doesn't go away...

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skiri251

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Finally my Oldwing topic.

I had been noticing tappet noise for a while. So just adjusted the other day but it doesn't go away.. The video is for the left side but I think the noise comes from both banks.

[video]https://youtu.be/nxBrGg5X9Lk[/video]

I did it as usual and I think I knew what I was doing..

Is this acceptable noise level?
Or something wrong with the locker arms and stuff?

Again, I think the noise starts once the engine gets to an operating temp.
That should be the other way around, right?
Cold engine, more gaps, more noise..

Oh by the way, just went camp touring. Only one night but hey.

IMG_20160622_164648.jpg
 
I really couldn't hear much on that short sound byte. Video type audio is usually poor to me.
I didn't hear anything flagrantly ticking or clicking though.



Did you set your valve clearances with an overnight stone cold engine?
 
I have a noise similar to that when cold but goes away when warmed up, took it for normal since I adjusted the valves.
Thinking about it you need a drag on the feeler gauge when pulled through, I might take them off again and re check, look for any worn parts like the adjustment stems and tappet face on the valves, if you have a dished valve stem face you can adjust a little tighter for a temporary fix..be sure it is stone cold before adjustment.
 
If they are ticking they aren't too tight. If it runs good I'd just enjoy the sound. When they are silent you risk them burning. At least that's what I was taught way back when.
 
Thanks every one.

Yes, the adjustment was done on stone cold engine.
I also took longer video with engine rev'ed but maybe it's cellphone audio and it's difficult to tell.

When I was riding on freeways and twisties yesterday and the day before, I definately heard clicking/scratching noise which was a little annoying. (I don't think i heard that noice before..)
It was upper 90s temp but Oldwing did well I should say. She ate a little more oil though. (it was 1/4 level in sight glass for a long time but after 300 mile ride I couldn't see the oil.)

Well maybe I will do the adjustment again with closer eye on tappet/valve stem faces.

How can I detect the exhaust leak?
 
Exhaust leaks can be tough, Just wondering if you could spray some water in the intake while running at high idle maybe make some steam...another way is with a feather or something very light and sensitive to air then moving it around the exhaust.
 
get a cheap automotive stethoscope, it will help you pin point noises quickly. I couldn't hear anything abnormal in that clip, but my hearing is terrible anyway. I did notice a lot of red silicone, I would use that stuff sparingly or not at all, also too much will damage gaskets.
 
One thing on the valve covers, it the seals on the bolts are worn out the gasket won't seal. If you notice on the valve cover bolts they have stops on them, the seal is what holds pressure on the cover, I know I had to replace all of mine.
 
A heavy dose of ATF will give you a white smoke visual with your exhaust leak. I also often block up the tailpipe to provide some extra back pressure which makes it easier to source a leak.
 
Update on this topic:

While I am waiting for the radiator shop for E150 checkups, I am re-doing the Oldwing tappets.

First of all, I tried HF stethoscope but with my untrained ears, the only thing I can say is that the noise is coming from somewhere inside the cylinder head covers.

I removed one of the adjusters to see the contact surface.
I see slightly flat parts there. Is this okay?

IMG_20160628_105317.jpg


If not, is there any way I can make it uniform? Like wet sanding with #1000 sandpaper?
Or do I need to put new ones?

The valve stem side is difficult to observe especially with my aging eye sight.. (sigh)
 
It is okay and it is okay to smooth with wet/dry paper if you choose. Every turn of the adjuster will present a new surface for wear.
 
well the angle change through the stroke of the rockere has this as it draw back ...when screwis adjusted for clealence you can see it my end up turn wrong ...ive never really came up with a way to deal with this ...and thought it would be thing to do ...it a flaw in design to me for sure
 
Thanks.

More photos.

#1 intake valve stem. Looks okay.
IMG_20160628_112358.jpg


#1 ex. Looks okay.
IMG_20160628_112956.jpg


#3 ex. Scratch mark. Is this the noise source?
IMG_20160628_114513.jpg


I will examine all the adjusters and file the ones with scratches.
 
the valve stems and the adjustable screw should be arch in same relation to rocker movement this is the flaw as i see it ...if that was done right oldwings would be noise free with good oil supply to cushion it all ...just get better through running
 
I did all eight.

Four of them were messed up.
IMG_20160628_130707.jpg


Couldn't get a good photo but both adjuster and valve stem end got uneven surfaces so I wet sanded them to almost flat.

Haven't tested yet but hopefully the noise will go away..
 
If I were to make a guess that valve was way out of adjustment for some time. Reality is you should pull the valves and adjusters and have a automotive machine shop surface them.

Valves that are adjusted right will have a slight clicking sound with the stethoscope, remember there is only suppose to be four thousands clearance so if your valve stems and adjusters surfaces are uneven you will never keep your valves adjusted properly.
 
Right after I bought the bike, I checked the valve clearance. There was none. The PO adjusted to zero (in stone cold engine :shock: )
Maybe that caused surfaces to become uneven.. I didn't really check them until now.

Now they are fairly flat so hopefully the noise won't come back.

The stethoscope diagnosis turned out to be very difficult for me. I really need reference recordings to compare against. Otherwise it will be very subjective.

If there was such recordings with good quality, they can be compared in frequency domain with FFT analysis and the results will be black and white visually..
 

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