Help Please!

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cowboy45

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
190
Reaction score
0
Location
Nogales
Hello All,

I bought a non running 81 gl1100. I was unable to see it turn or even power up. This week end I wanted to start working on it. I was mainly knowing the wing. So when I went to check on the oil level I just couldn't see the level in the little window. I decided to remove the oil drain screw and then chocolate milk started to come out!!!

Can a bike that was seating on the outside for long time could get water in the engine? What you you suggest? new oil run it and then new oil again? Right now is empty no oil or coolant.

Thanks in advance!
 
Cheap oil not made for high mileage. Yes it can be condensation or it can be a blown head gasket. Don't use straight water as coolant. A little antifreeze is needed to slow corrosion. Run it a bit watching the temp gauge and cooling fan. Watch for smoke from the exhaust. If you get white smoke that smells sweet you'll most likely be needing head gaskets. If it has been sitting long enough it likely needs the carbs and fuel tank cleaned before it will even run long enough to tell. If it has been too long like this you may need to break it free to even get the crank to turn. All of this can be done but will need done one step at a time.
 
I would change the oil and filter now!
A compression check will tell you if you have bad head gaskets. Below 100, pull the head and see if you want to go further.
Fill the radiator with 50/50 antifreeze and water.
Replace the spark plugs.
Look inside the gas tank for rust and crud. If present, the job just got much more tedious. Drain the tank with an electric fuel pump and put a couple gallons of fresh gasoline in it.
Put a good battery in it, set kill switch to off, and crank until the oil light goes out.
Once you have oil pressure, turn the kill switch on, pull the choke on and try to start the engine. If you're lucky, it will start and run.

This site has a wealth of information on how to resuscitate an Old Wing.

Welcome to the Wing World.

Tom
 
ok ..first things first ...dont use the starter yet ....id take the plugs out first ...and if it was me id take the timing covers off the front of motor ..this allow you to check the timing but more important you will have access to the crank bolt to put a wrench on to see if motor is stuck ...if it seems stuck spray lubricant into the cylinders ..this might free it up ...and dont go all out to unstick it this could cause some damage ...always go back and forth on the crank ...most of the time this will unstick it ..i like to use a good box end wrench and a rubber mallot to gently tap a bit of shock into the wrench on crank ....if it seems to stuck ..best move is to remove heads ...as it might hav blown head gasket anyways ...with head off you can reall clean up the cylinders and unstick the motor ....to me this is best way to do it in the create no damage mode ...
 
+1 on "don't use the starter motor yet". I had an engine that was almost ready, but I used the starter too soon and one valve was slow to close. When the piston came up it bent the valve! Engine runs good now, but I could have saved a lot of work by making sure all the valves were free first.

Pull the valve covers and make sure everything moves as it should by turning the crank bolt as was said.

Good luck and be patient with yourself.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185821#p185821:612djfso said:
joedrum » 10 minutes ago[/url]":612djfso]
ok ..first things first ...dont use the starter yet ....id take the plugs out first ...and if it was me id take the timing covers off the front of motor ..this allow you to check the timing but more important you will have access to the crank bolt to put a wrench on to see if motor is stuck ...if it seems stuck spray lubricant into the cylinders ..this might free it up ...and dont go all out to unstick it this could cause some damage ...always go back and forth on the crank ...most of the time this will unstick it ..i like to use a good box end wrench and a rubber mallot to gently tap a bit of shock into the wrench on crank ....if it seems to stuck ..best move is to remove heads ...as it might hav blown head gasket anyways ...with head off you can reall clean up the cylinders and unstick the motor ....to me this is best way to do it in the create no damage mode ...

Thanks to all for the help!
I have already try turning the cranck with a wrench and it is a bit hard but it does turn. I will spray some lubricant and try to move it again.
So big chance that there is a blown gasket? I really don't want to convert this into a full engine restore (short on the budget) but a decent restore so the engine works good.
Thanks to all again!
 
i do mostly get stuff on ebay ...id get the motor free up good first .....if it moving a bit spray lube and then back and forth a bit spray mor and repeat ...go slow ..only tension should be valve spring with plugs out sounds to me its going good ...once it gets all the way around a few times ...and it feels rather free ...then you might keep spraying and use starter in smalll bumps ...to eventually full spin ....good luck...if you get there ..your in second rehab mode to go after compression test ..witch can be your thumb LOL to feel how much push it has and if they seem the same ...or a gauge lol...put oil in it before any serious spinning of motor...this should have been said first no starter till oil for sure ....
 
Hello all,

Update on my project. I lubricated and turned and turned and turned..... The crank. then new oil and filter, new battery. Next step compression test. I ordered a compression tester on ebay but it did not fit the spark plug hole it is a little biger. Do you know if i can get like an adapter?
The good thing is that the engine does turn. So now Im stuck till Im able to test the compression. Tomorro Ill start the carbs cleaning. Im getting there on baby steps!!!
 
Baby steps is the best way to go.

When adding oil- make sure it is for wet clutches. NOT auto oil.

When adding water make sure you use a silicate free anti freeze.

I get a lot of my parts off partzilla.

I find out the Honda number for a particular part and then search google with just the part number.

Change the fuel filter at this time also.

Good luck on your new ride..
 
I wouldn't worry about compression at all at this point. It more than likely is low because of sitting. Keep working towards getting it to run and find out if you do have blown head gaskets. If they are good a few hundred miles of spirited riding will likely re seat the rings. However the chance of a stuck valve from sitting is also very good. I would remove the valve covers and be certain they all move as they should turning the motor over by hand several times.
 
Hello to all,

Let me start saying that this is my firs wing and that I'm no mechanic. I do have some skill with wrenches and play with my car but not with a wing.
Having said that, I rebuilded the carbs to my wing. I was sure that the firs time was not going to be perfect. Plese I look for your knowledge here :beg: :beg: .
If some one can point me to a carb rebuild step by step guide. I followed the honda service manual to replace the parst on the carbs but the firs take was not good.

It doesnt iddle and it with throtle half way throtle stays but roughly. with full shoke it will idle but roughly. I can see black smoke coming out the left bank.

I was thinking that the carb rebuild was matter of swaping parts with new parts but nop it not that easy! Maybe I screwed up somewhere in the process!

Thanks in advanced.
Ben
 
I was looking at a video from DanFilipi on how to remove the jets and I didn't removed the iddle jet at all! :doh: :doh:

I gues is part of the process of mastering this machines!
 
another question... Do I need to replace every single peace that comes in the rebuild kit? becuase I didnt change the pilot screw!

Thanks Again :good: :good: :good:
 
Leave the old pilot screws but clean them and the passages. The 80 & 81 carbs have pressed in jets. Manual says they are not removable. Wrong there are several ways. I force in a drywall screw and use wire cutting pliers like a claw hammer pulling a nail to remove them. I leave the screw in place while cleaning the jets. The inside end is all that needs cleaned. Then position the jet and tap the screw to bed the the jet and remove the screw. I do one jet and passage at a time. The drywall screw lasts me two or sometimes three jets before it won't bite.
 
Have to get ALL the passages open, :doh: needles seated (sealing) well, adjustments all made, like you said, & it should run a lot better. :yes:
 
stock carbs can really be a challenge...so dont get down if things dont go smoothly ....they never do really even with the best working on them ...stock carbs have so many things that can lead to poor running ...i mean step back and look at all the shafts parts passages how tiny the parts are vacuum involved seals and so on ....this is probably the biggest job in bringing a oldwing back to life
 
I just finished rebuilding a really dirty set of '81 carbs and they are now working smooth as silk. I primarily used the advice from Roady and his carb rebuild at this link:

viewtopic.php?p=2153#p2153

It is very important to be sure all passages shown are open and clear. I tested each passage with spray carb cleaner. The final bench sync procedure using a hat pin is no longer a recommended procedure. It can damage the butterfly valves. The better way to bench sync is, with the carbs off the bike and the intakes removed, loosen the sync screws all the way loose. Look at the butterfly of carb #3 and look down at the plenum and you will see a tiny air hole. Adjust the buttterfly so that it is just past the hole. Then adjust the other butterfly valves the same. That will give the best starting point for start and idle.
 
update on the carbs...

I reworked the carbs. Cleaned the idle jets, checked again the pilot screws. installed the carb rack back in the wing. First 3 or 4 attempts with started fluid didnt do it, until I pulled the shoke all the way out it idled nice :BigGrin: :BigGrin: :BigGrin: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: . I then sinced the carbs and it idles fine. The only thing is that if I twist the throtle it is not very responsive.... another issue? :headscratch:

I couldnt get a road test because the fan never kicked in? when should it kick in, when the meter is at what point? Well that is the next step, check on the fan and sensor.

Then the brakes and :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: test drive!
 
Top