Need help ... No spark ...

Alrighty ... I'm at a loss here ... I'm trying to get my '83 started up but not getting any spark from her ... I have ran through every test in the shop manual and every piece of equipment passes. for example, the pulse generator passed it's ohm test at 545-570 Ohms. The coils pass both primary and secondary Ohm tests, and power at them where it needs to be. The spark units passed and I was even able to generate a spark by grounding the specific wire at the pulse generator connector. I even checked the kill switch and it was functioning properly .... What am I missing?

Thanks

Assuming all wiring is original, did you check to be sure the green ground wire is clean that connects at the coils?

There should be 12 volts at both spark units and at the coil ballast resistor. Make sure the resistor is OK. The spark units should have good grounds. The pulsers are wired to the spark units through 2 connections - make sure they are good.

If you have power, ground, good pulsers, spark units, coils and ballast resistor, there's nothing left but wiring.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=127045#p127045:q1uq4pkc said:

mcgovern61 » Wed Jul 30, 2014 1:19 pm[/url]":q1uq4pkc]
Assuming all wiring is original, did you check to be sure the green ground wire is clean that connects at the coils?

Click to expand...

Make sure that you have 12v at the coils with an incandescent test light or heavy duty test light (55w bulb or better)

You could try another rotor if you have one. I've never read of one losing it's magnetism but I suppose it is possible.

hmmmmm geee wheeez seems like you covered everything ... best go over things again and do like tony said use some load tests ... starter button is suspect still id say

Checking resistance is fine, but it can also fool you. Start with voltage at the coils then work backwards checking voltage as you go. As your checking, don't use the frame as a ground. If you find you have no voltage, then check voltage with negative on the frame. That will eliminate or confirm a faulty ground.

When I first got my 83 it would run fine, then die. It was the kill switch, I cleaned it with brake clean and has worked fine since.

I want to thank you all for your quick responses .... Still can't get it to fire. I'm going to go through the whole system again front to back this weekend. The one thing that puzzles me is that I can get a spark if I ground the appropriate wire in the pulse generator harness. For example, if I hook my spark tester up and crank it, no spark. But if I unplug the pulse generator plug and ground the black/white wire (not positive as I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me) I can getva spark.

Is there another safety I'm missing somewhere? Clutch? Kickstand? I keep thinking about the kill switch but it tested ok ... Maybe in the kill circuit wiring ... This weekend I'll check. I'm just upset because I spent a ton of money rebuilding the carbs and am not yet ready to outlay the money for the C5 ignition, though it is on my list ...
Thanks again

I bet you have one of your safety switches bad. I'll look at the schematic as soon as I can.

The pulsers don't ground the spark units, they send a pulse to trigger the unit, which in turn grounds the coil. There should be a small, but measurable, voltage produced by the pulsers when the engine is turning, regardless of ignition being on or off. The black/white wire you're grounding is triggering only one coil. I'm not sure if grounding the inputs to the spark units is OK or not...

That's actually the test given in the factory shop manual. The full procedure is to check for battery voltage at the blue/yellow wire for the 3-4 coil and yellow for the 1-2 coil at the respective spark unit. Then ground the corresponding pulse wire (I forget the colors) and look for the voltage to drop below 2 volts ... This will fire the energized coil. Now I'm thinking the pulser is bad .. and that sucks ...

Keep at it and you will get there :builder: :salute:

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? You could hook it up to the pulser outputs, crank the engine, and see if there's a signal being generated. I heard of one years ago that had the pulser shaft bearing seize and sheared the pin at the crank joint, so the pulser rotor wasn't even turning. I hope this isn't the case here...

No, no oscilloscope ... And it sucks to even try and swap in known good parts ... I have to pull the engine to do it and if that's the case, I might as well get the C5 and be done with it ... I still have this weekend to figure it out

Most pickups generate a millivolt out put when you wind the engine over so that you can test them.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=127285#p127285:1vxx2ou4 said:

Grumpy_Chef » Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:43 pm[/url]":1vxx2ou4]
No, no oscilloscope ... And it sucks to even try and swap in known good parts ... I have to pull the engine to do it and if that's the case, I might as well get the C5 and be done with it ... I still have this weekend to figure it out

Click to expand...

You don't need to pull the motor for it but it might be easier. I just pulled the rear tire and fuel tank to get to my ignition. My hands are small and I can still lay on the ground. C5 is a great idea though. :yahoo:

Just a thought...
When I was having he!! with mine after doing the stator, I wasn't getting a good spark, either. I'd get a little fitz at times, but only when releasing the start button. Had us all confused...I went thu the whole system, as you have. On mine, what I found was that I had left off the small bolt/washer that holds the ign. rotor to the shaft inside the pulse generator assy. The rotor just wasn't turning all the time....if at all. You CAN get the cover off of the pulse generator without disassembling the bike....I've done it several times.... :blush:
Might be worth it to take a look. You can take the cover off and reach up in there to see if the rotor is loose. I used a video scope to make it easier for me, but you can actually see it with bare eyeholes. Perhaps the bolt fell out, or loosened just enough to allow the rotor to slide back far enough to come off the drive pin on the shaft. :wave:

ive done that before too ...not hard at all to leave bolt loose LOL

I messed up on that somehow also.
All together there was a clicking noise coming from it

Well, I don't know about my bike, but I've got a few screws loose, that's for sure!