Blown Head Gasket

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brianinpa

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I walked out to the garage and started my bike this morning and left it warm up like normal and had no obvious signs of any problems. I pulled out of the driveway and again everything was just fine. Two blocks into my ride to work, I noticed that sweet smell and looked in the mirror to see a trail of steam coming from the right exhaust pipe. :sensored: Just in time to put an end to a ride to New England, so I guess I take the cage. :crying:

Well, the head gaskets were replaced three years ago so it looks like I am going to be doing them again, but I got to wondering... what causes a head gasket to just blow?

Oh and since I am pulling things apart, I may as well put them 77 cams back in when I am done.
 
That really blows, no telling what caused it..Best tell tale is to look at the gasket once it is out, I suppose it could have even cracked head..Check the head bolts and blocks threads too, maybe just didnt have proper compression due to stretched or obstructed threads...The head gasket will show the problem.
 
It makes me dread the day that the heads have to come off the Rats Nest and the search is on for a head gasket to last another 33 years...
 
Make sure you chase the threads, do my test on checking the head, 2x2 piece of granite and spray glue some 220g wet sand to it and color the head surface with sharpie then run it over the flat sand paper surface lightly and look for warp. Since you have used the head bolts a couple of times so replace them.
 
Ok I don't understand stretch bolts.
What does this mean?

So they stretch.....ok but does that mean they won't hold any longer?
They didn't break, they are still bolts, so why should they not be reused?
 
As bolts are used over and over again, then can stretch and become longer. When they stretch too much, the threads are usually the first thing to suffer so the torquing quality of the bolt diminshes as does the ability of the bolt to retain the torque that is applied.
 
Brian said it but if it makes it easier to understand think of the bolt like taffy, at first it is hard to pull but as you start stretching it gets thinner and pulls easier..On a bolt scale the difference may be hard to tell but some things to look for are bolts that are not perfectly strait, threads that are not smooth(run a nut on them to check) and bolts that measure longer then the specification, any one of these are reasons not to re use a headbolt, they may torque but like taffy they will not secure the head with the proper torque.
I would also suggest the use of a digital torque meter instead of a click type.
 
Many modern engines are made with "stretch bolts" and are single use only as when reused they do not hold the same tension as the first usage. Another thing that is more common in later model engines is the torque and turn method of tensioning.
 
And for the record, I am not saying that I agree with that once and done idea. If I torque a head bolt and it holds a torque through the first heat cycle, no problem. If I have to retorque a bolt a lot after the motor running and then cooling off, I will check it a second time just to make sure the bolts are still good.,

Having extra motors and head bolts laying around is a good thing
 
Plenty of debate on this one. OEM gaskets or aftermarket? I know quite a few who recommend re-torque after the first hot cycle. I also know of some who check torque with every valve adjust. I have not "chased" the threads before, but that might be a good idea. Does sludge or build up get in there and dissolve or soften after torque?
 
This evening I finally kick procrastination out of the garage and decided to get to work. I want to fix an oil leak at the rear case, so the motor has to come out... again. :head bang: I am beginning to think I have luck with engine pulls like Joel has with rear tires. :smilie_happy:

Well I started this afternoon and got the motor out is 3 1/2 hours, start to finish and even had time to stop and eat some dinner. The hardest part of pulling the motor was cutting the wire harness from the C5 that runs up to the coil. :shock: It seemed such a shame to do it, but someone ran the wires between the frame and the fuel tank and there was no way the coil connector was fitting through... Lesson learned!

So, this time around my plans are:
Head gaskets.
Rear case seal.
Carbs or carb... still not sure which way I am going yet.
Cam seals/caps and still thinking I may stick in some 77 cams.
New to me Vetter fairing and a face lift to match the bags.
While I have the aluminum pieces off, I may as well spend some time in front of the buffer again. At least this time I would have to remove all the clear coat and scratches.

Oh and the 1200 is sitting in the corner of the garage laughing at me also! :doh:
 
They are a cruel bunch of girls when they are in the same room, looking and smirking at ya !!! I hear mine snickering all the time, dang huzzies !!

Sounds like you got your winter plans laid out Brian, best of luck with it.
 
The biggest reason I don't want to go to a single carb is the intake manifold. I do a lot of riding in the cold so freezing is a concern for me which would require heating the manifold. I'm still reading through everything that is out there to see which would be the best option.
 
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