ID numbers cast into CDI boxes?

I need to replace the CDI boxes on my 1100 again. This time I plan to use coils from a 1500 to stop the black resin from melting out.

The boxes have a number cast into the aluminum housing. Should I look for identical # boxes?

I see expensive new boxes from Ricks. About double the price of used. Anyone try them?

hmmm seems you have 80 1100 ... the resistors were put in the sparkers on 81-80 models... so ive been told this ..i do not have first hand knowledge of this ...seems the 82 -83 sparkers are the ones to get ... and a ballast resistor used on the coils ....if there is 2 different part numbers i would go for the 82-83 set up as it was much better than 80-81 1100s ...as the story goes ...so much wrong info out that one has to check good into things

cross reference the numbers at Honda?

cant get much from that attachment ...wont enlarge legible enough to read it

Is the attachment from the factory service manual?

used are fine..just refill with epoxy or leave them empty it doesn't effect much..or I have used ones already filled with epoxy..for sale $40 for a pair. pm me if interested

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137845#p137845:23lw8to1 said:

tuna » Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:56 pm[/url]":23lw8to1]
Is the attachment from the factory service manual?

Click to expand...

The first page on ignition systems in the 1100 manual

You can access the manuals under gallery tech references.

Are they the same one for the 83? I have a set that is used but good, Pic shows them, numbers on them are MPS-200.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137857#p137857:2yd56rc6 said:

PeterDas » Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:05 am[/url]":2yd56rc6]
Are they the same one for the 83? I have a set that is used but good, will take pics.

Click to expand...

We had a recent discussion about this but it seems nobody knows for sure.
I suspect they are the same but the lack of a resistor used on the earlier years or different coils used causes the overheating.

Confused: I have my OEM set with the goo melted out. I replaced them with used set and was having heavy missing issues after about 5k miles and noticed new black goo on my garage floor. I plan to replace the coils with a set from a 1500. I understand that they don't require a ballast resistor and deliver a hotter spark. How do I test the the 2 sets of boxes that I have?

The only way I know to be certain is the check the primary coil resistance with a ohm meter.
I have 2 sets of 83 coils that read .5 ohms.
The 1500 set I have read 3 ohms.
What do you get on your 1980 coils?

I do have a spare 1100 coil set in the basement that I think I can figure out how use my tester on. The bike itself is mothballed, covered and buried in the corner. So if I test the set in the basement and get .5 ohms does that mean the coil set is good?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137867#p137867:2tilozpr said:

tuna » Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:45 am[/url]":2tilozpr]
I do have a spare 1100 coil set in the basement that I think I can figure out how use my tester on. The bike itself is mothballed, covered and buried in the corner. So if I test the set in the basement and get .5 ohms does that mean the coil set is good?

Click to expand...

If they test .5 then they are at least the same as the 83 coil set I have, and should be good to use unless they are cracked I suppose.
Cracks can let moisture in and affect performance.

OK got my multimeter out and need some direction. I need .5 ohms on my coil PAC to know that my coils are good. CAUTION: Dumb questions to follow. On the meter the horse shoe like sign is ohms right? If so I have settings from 200-2000k to pick, not sure which setting to use? Once I get the right setting do I pull the 2 ignition wires from each coil and take my reading there or do I check at the plastic plug that connects to the bike? This plug comes out of the coil PAC itself.

The meter needs set to 200.
With the coil disconnected, put your leads on the primary connections. That's the connectors that the wire harness and the resistor (if you have one) are connected to.

Went on line and found out that I was right about the symbol for ohms and I think I need to turn down to the lowest value to check my coils for .5 ohms. Still not sure if I check for this value at the actual spark plug wires or at the plastic connector attached to the coils?

Re read Dan's post above.

I just tested mine today on an '80 GL11. I got 1.5 both by testing at the end of the pigtail that connects to the cdi and St the 2 terminals your wires connect to. I hope it means they are good.

Cheers