Adjusting valves cold

Probably gonna adjust the valves on my 1100 tomorrow morning. I know that she will have sat long enough to be fully cool when I do it but I am curious if others have pushed the leave it overnight without running rule before adjusting valves. I have to think that 4-6 hours would actually be enough but because I don't want to do the job more often than necessary I have never actually tested that theory. What say you? What is the shortest time period you have waited? Did you ever have to go back in and redo it because you did not wait long enough?

hmmm i think that once motor is cool down to ambient temp ...i dont think more time will make a difference

Andy, these are tight clearances. The aluminium parts will cool much faster than the steel parts and each have their own expansion rates. I am fairly sure that the overnight rule (or at least 12 hours) gets you to a point of equilibrium.

Does it take long for the oil to fully cool down?

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132235#p132235:10crz4yg said:

mcgovern61 » Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:21 am[/url]":10crz4yg]
Andy, these are tight clearances. The aluminium parts will cool much faster than the steel parts and each have their own expansion rates. I am fairly sure that the overnight rule (or at least 12 hours) gets you to a point of equilibrium.

Click to expand...

Equalibrium is really what your after.

I have riden in the morning then adjusted valves after dinner with no I'll effects.
I feel ok doing same day adjustment if the outside temps are below 60 all day.
Much warmer then the parts will take longer to cool.

oh boy .... this to me is overthinking to the max

Joe, I am not trying to overthink this. I am just curious if the conventional wisdom is correct. We are a group that tends to push on conventional wisdom from time to time.

yes meant nothing andy just posting ...wisdom as i see it to help you nothing else

I don't think it's over thinking it, it's a good question.

I think the only way to know for sure would be to try it, say adjust the valves once it's cooled enough to work on it. Maybe a couple hours. After 8-12 hours check them again then check the next morning.

I haven't adjusted valves on my wing yet. But those I have adjusted on cars I did with the motor hot. Never noticed any trouble but maybe I was wrong to do it that way. Seems to me hot or cold everything will be where it's supposed to be.

My dad would adjust the 6 cylinder valves while running.
Back then I was too young to understand what his thinking was but I knew it was messy and glad he was doing it not me.

There is a reason that the specs are listed for both Hot and Cold. Cold is where you want to start the adjustments...a baseline if you will. The actual, running clearances should be set with the engine hot(or normal operating temp) since when the engine is running...it's usually hot. :yes:
Steel valves DO expand....it's a minute amount, but enough to sometimes create a problem if the cold clearance is too tight to start with.
Cold clearance will get it running....hot clearance adjustments are where you do the fine tuning, if needed. :good:
As for how long to let one sit to cool...it depends. Rule of thumb would be that the head should be cool to the touch.

An auto engine with hydraulic lifters can be pre-set without the engine running, since the hydraulics will automatically adjust the clearance once running, and pressurized with the engine oil. But it's way more accurate(and fun) to adjust them with the engine running. :hihihi: Back the adjustment off until you hear the rocker rattle, then tighten SLOWLY until the rattle stops...then aboot 1/4-1/2 turn more. :builder:

Aapple, does the gold wing have a hot clearance number? My understanding is that the clearance listed is designed so that everything works once the engine is hot.

As far as adjusting the valves on a running motor, I assume that you are talking about the old style with push rods and rockers. Right? Cause I can't picture how you could adjust a wing when it is running since the adjuster is constantly in motion when it is running.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132240#p132240:4lkmxdv5 said:

joedrum » Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:07 am[/url]":4lkmxdv5]
yes meant nothing andy just posting ...wisdom as i see it to help you nothing else

Click to expand...

No offense taken, Joe. I do have a tendency to overthink things because it takes me a long time to formulate a plan. Planning and organizing are far from my strong points.

Lets try to do it while running.........this is what you will be working with! :smilie_happy:

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPKca7Oiwjs[/video]

I have adjusted valves on my cars with them running and that is messy but with that video it is worse... I used to adjust my lines with bike running... when I did the belts on my 1100 I set the valves and that was 4 years ago.. guess I may need to recheck them.. lol..

Just did mine yesterday.
The manual clearly states the engine temp to be below 35C or 95F, in case no one noticed.
It's on page 3-13.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132469#p132469:2suc1tch said:

skiri251 » Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:05 am[/url]":2suc1tch]
Just did mine yesterday.
The manual clearly states the engine temp to be below 35C or 95F, in case no one noticed.
It's on page 3-13.

Click to expand...

Manual? "We don need no stinkin manual!" :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: :smilie_happy:
I'll admit I dint look in the manual to see what the specs were, so the automotive side of my brain spoke it's mind without consulting the manual. I would have sworn there was a hot and cold setting for the valves, but there ain't. :rtfm: :doh:

I just like that before you can fix the patient you need to take its temperature first :smilie_happy:

Noisy valves are happy valves. Cool enough to touch is cool enough to set.