OK mechanics, whatcha think about this?

I'm puttering with a '83 Taurus, and she's lookin' and runnin' great! A new radiator, hoses, water pump, timing cover, and fan motor took care of the overheating, so here's my question:

Does power steering fluid retain enough moisture that it will boil at normal operating temperatures? If I drive any distance with the A/C running on a hot day, the fluid seems to be forced out through the vent hole in the reservoir cap. The system is not over-filled, but the fluid is pretty nasty. I'm going to flush and fill the system, but is there anything else I need to look for? Should I insulate the pressure and return lines? I've never seen this happen before, and was wondering if anyone out there has...

I'm considering an external trans fluid cooler, maybe a P/S fluid cooler would be a good idea as well. The car has 150K miles on the original engine, and 50K on a rebuilt trans, and drives like new.

I have had 2 Taurus's and never had that issue. Both went well over 180K miles. If the fluid is nasty, change it out. Boiling out?? Should only boil if it is getting WAY overheated and it should not be related to the AC. Any minor squealing that could indicate the bearing is going bad? The only thing I can think of is the impeller is imploding from cavitation.

It really is a simple system.....oil pump and pressure valves that allow the oil to go to either side and return on the other side. The only time I have seen oil boil is from water in the oil or broken impeller.

We had to replace the main power steering line on the cager last year and it is covered with a black foam insulator and a foil like covering, Maybe excessive heat is an issue.

~O~

I really dont know but is there a possibility the lines are reversed? Not even sure it would work that way but I`m sure it wouldn't work well.

Most Late model cars down hear have a power steering fluid cooler fitted from the factory now. So I would do the flush and figure out how to mount a PS cooler to your Taurus. Maybe PO topped up the water in PS fluid for you? :doh:

Chances are it already has a small cooler on it from the factory. Most Fords these days do. Sometimes, it's just a loop of steel line, sometimes it's a small tube type cooler. PS fluid does get hot in normal use....any hydraulic fluid does, since it is pressurized. As a hydraulic fluid gets hot, it expands...so it's gotta go somewhere. Make sure the reservoir is not overfilled to start with.
If the car does not have a factory PS cooler, you can either get a small trans cooler, or source a used PS cooler from a salvage yard. Just make sure a used one is clean inside. :good:

Agreed on the cooler. Remember it's housed in a steel box with a hot motor and hot air from the radiator. Newer engine compartments are usually crammed too full to allow any useful airflow.

Doubt that the lines are reversed.. the return line is not under extreme pressure like the pressure line so most of those are hoses clamped to the pipe connectors.. on my 97 Tahoe (not a Ford I know) the return is soldered to the pump...

Might want to consider replacing the cap.. the rubber seal may be sucking in some splash or spray

Everything is as it should be as far as proper assembly goes. I've never seen a 20+ year old vehicle so completely original. I bought it from the daughter of the original owner, a little old lady from Pasadena!

Anyway, the pressure and return lines are run between the exhaust manifold and the radiator fan, so they do get plenty of heat. I'll try to find some insulation for them. I also drained and replaced the fluid - twice, each time turning the wheels lock-to-lock to expel the fluid from the rack & pinion. We'll see what happens tomorrow... I'm shopping for trans and P/S oil coolers.

Thanks to all for the advice!

Even if it never runs perfect, it sure sounds good!

Head unit:

3/4" thick sub baffle:

12" subs installed in the cargo area:

The best kind of security - out of sight:

At least you have your priorities right :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
Does that stereo look like one that belongs on a 83 GW? :music:

+1 on the insulation bro.

~O~

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129632#p129632:1wcw8aqv said:

Ansimp » Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:44 pm[/url]":1wcw8aqv]
At least you have your priorities right :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
Does that stereo look like one that belongs on a 83 GW? :music:

Click to expand...

No, the one on the '83 is mechless so I could cut the case. This one is fully loaded - HD radio, USB, CD...

I've got a trans cooler you can have for either a ps or trans cooler.
It's the OEM from my van. I put a massive one on it.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129631#p129631:ibvqlqux said:

Steve83 » Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:41 am[/url]":ibvqlqux]
Even if it never runs perfect, it sure sounds good!

Head unit:

Taurus Stereo

• Steve83
• Aug 27, 2014

3/4" thick sub baffle:

Taurus Sub Mount

• Steve83
• Aug 27, 2014

12" subs installed in the cargo area:

Taurus Subs

• Steve83
• Aug 27, 2014

The best kind of security - out of sight:

Taurus Cargo Floor

• Steve83
• Aug 27, 2014

Click to expand...

STEVE.....You didn't say it was a station wagon! That's a different ball game! :smilie_happy:

A quick read on the Taurus sites and this is a common problem after changing the fluid. What appears to be boiling out is extreme air bubbles!

It is recommended to jack up both front wheels, drop the oil out the bottom, disconnect the belt and turn the pump by hand to get the balance of the oil out. With the wheels hard over one direction or the other, add fresh oil to the top slowly. Turn the pump by hand to get air out and slowly turn the wheel hard over the other direction. Top off the oil and spin the pump by hand again. Center the wheels. Check the oil level.

Turn hard left and right a few times (with the engine off) to be sure the air is out of the rack (turning the pump by hand to get air out of the pump).

Start once to circulate oil without turning the wheel. Stop the engine and check. Start again and turn the wheel lock to lock. All air should now be out.

Sounds like a pretty convoluted way to purge the air....especially turning the pump by hand.... :headscratch:
Another method that works really well is using a vacuum pump on the reservoir. If you have a Mity Vac hand pump, or an A/C vacuum pump, you can make(or buy) and adapter for the PS reservoir. Pull a vacuum on it for a while, and that will purge the air out completely. :wave:

It was the old, nasty fluid that boiled out. I flushed it several times last night with new fluid, so I'll see how it does today.

Hmmmm...a vacuum pump...that sucks! :hihihi:

I have a couple vacuum pumps if you need Steve.