Paint striping.

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Well it was just a thought, I know insurance is a issue here in the states as well. What a friend of mine does is have the person fill out a employment application then they are covered while there painting abilities are being tested. In my shop if the guys were working on their own cars I made them stay on the clock, I just didn't pay them for the time, but if anything happened they and our company was covered. There seems to always be a way around things.
 
Well it has been warm here today and little to no wind nice. So I got stuff done, I thought my long panels were not recoverable but hell give everything a shot first. Result below. This is a 2K filler Primer, using a fast air dry activator and about 15% thinner, I maybe had been better with 20%. The first coat was pretty much a introduction of paint on to the surface.

My el cheapo gun started fouling up, HVLP running about 25 PSI but it has a 1.3 needle, much too small, so I whipped out a new gun I bought late last year, so while the first coat dried I cleaned the new gun in thinner and made up a new batch, the needle on this one is 2.0 so I thought I would keep to the same mix. It shot quite well no runs but I could clearly see where the first rubbing down had missed small bits. So I just blew out the gun and waited for about 20 minutes and made up another batch. That went on well too. It is so warm here that after an hour the paint was hard enough for wet rubbing down. Few pics below, the forecast for tomorrow is 21 deg C and little wind so under the carport out side should be just right. So I will let this go really off tonight And in the morning just my grey primer coat also 2k. With luck I might even get to blow one or two base coats.

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So that's all for today folks..... :BigGrin:
 
A thin film of black before sanding the filler will reveal any low spots very handily. Looks great from here!
 
Yes I think I need a guide coat just to make sure. And to something completely different, the water-overflow bottle. Has any one had any success in cleaning it to look new? Or even just make it less crappy?
 
I fill( not very full) them up with some water, gravel and sand and shake the $hit out of them until they eventually come as clean as possible or I get bored :)
 
Good info to see this ! That Black Cherry is Awesome ! Just getting ready to strip the paint on my bike this next week..was also trying to figure out what to use on the plastic side covers for paint removal .
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172850#p172850:26bekwe3 said:
Ansimp » Wed May 04, 2016 11:29 pm[/url]":26bekwe3]
I fill( not very full) them up with some water, gravel and sand and shake the $hit out of them until they eventually come as clean as possible or I get bored :)
Good way too never thought of that either. I struggled with a brush.ha ha
 
Yes acetoone is too much I think for a normal pair of covers that are as OEM, I just sanded then down, filled where needed then I would use a stopper layer. Then the Undercoat and then the base.

post some more later today.
 
Just to let you all know I did clean mine last night with a bottle brush and soapy water, after I did that I filled it with bleach and water left it over night, looks a lot better.
 
That is why I put the bleach inside and closed it and just left it overnight. It isn't perfect and doesn't look brand new and white but it is a lot better. and don't use pure beech, use water too.
 
No matter how much it whitens your shorts it won't whiten aged plastic :smilie_happy:
 
Here is something I found for restoring old plastic, below is part of the article

It turns out the perfect plastic bleaching solution is a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, glycerin, oxygen based bleach like OxyClean, and xanthum gum to make it sticky. Brush it on and leave it out in the sun or under a UV lamp to accelerate the process and your Commodore will be sporting a show-room fresh shine in no time. The Retr0Bright site has a few recipes and, for those who paid attention in chemistry, a detailed explanation of the chemistry behind the entire process.

Retr0Bright [via Make]

The only concern I would have would be with the glycerin, just mix a little nitro with it :mischief: I don't really know anything about chemistry but this sounds like an interesting blend. Apparently they use this for restoring old computer plastic . One person mentioned using a mixture of Ammonia and bleach, however that is a very dangerous thing to do because the combination produces Chlorine gas and that can be deadly.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172900#p172900:2lnt6vlr said:
Ansimp » Fri May 06, 2016 2:45 am[/url]":2lnt6vlr]
No matter how much it whitens your shorts it won't whiten aged plastic :smilie_happy:

I didn't say it whitened the bottle I said it cleaned it up a bit more,the majority of the "clean-up" was done with a bottle brush bent in different directions to get into the corners.
It is still yellowish. As I didn't buy the bike from new I don't know if the bottle had colour or not. The only pictures of it I can find are on spare parts sites are all black and white outline pictures so who knows. :yes:

The above info regarding Glycerine and acid is not a good one, I know it depends on which acid to use and I have made some, not quite allowing it to get to the explosive part, but to make it there are two requirements to the process. Just introducing both chemicals do not or should not begin the reaction. To do so one of the components should ( if I remember right) introduced to the other under high pressure and also the temperature also helps the reaction to begin. I don't know or can't remember if a catalyst is used.

But this plastic is very old now. I think the plastic yellows in the presence of water or antifreeze. ?
 
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