New classic wing owner, advice on restoration checklist

Well I finally got my first bike, a naked 77 Goldwing. As the plan is for me to use it on some long road trips (maybe up to a month at a time) I am looking to make it pretty roadworthy by rebuilding a portion of the easier to do parts. I am no stranger to a wrench by any means, so nothing here is very daunting for me. I figure a little money spent now will give peace of mind later as I am on long road trips.

I would greatly appreciate a critique of the things I am planning to replace/restore. Any thing I really don't need to, or more importantly anything I am forgetting?

1- Timing belts- replace FIRST
2- Fuel lines and fuel filter
3- Adjust valves, new valve gasket and new grommets for bolts
4- Oil change, new filter
5- Carb- Complete rebuild, they are trashed, new o rings for carb manifolds
6- brakes, (front and rear)- new pads, caliper rebuild- possibly new piston if bad, change brake fluid, bleed
7- battery- new
8- Coolant- flush radiator, new anti-freeze, new thermostat
9- Spark plugs- New plugs, new boots
10- Fork oil- change out
11- Final drive oil- change out
12- Exhaust - I have a Harley set I bought on Ebay for $0.99 , new exhaust gasket rings

Change out the brake lines and consider upgrading ignition. Check over ever wiring connection to be sure they are all clean and tight and it'd be a very good idea if they all had liberal dielectric grease. Be sure the shocks and fork springs are up to par. I wish I could plan a few months vacation.

Welcome to Classics from PA. How much $ do you want to spend? You have a nice list started but have you considered a new ignition?

Thanks for the advice- As far as ignition goes, I wasn't originally planning on it, but I can find some room in the budget if its reccommended. Last thing I need is to be half way across the US and have it fail on me.

Do you recommend a full Dyna coil and point setup, or just the Dyna S points with stock coils? Or a Dyna S point with a coil set that people have found to be upgrades (Neon, GL1500 coils)?

You will most likely here a lot of people around here recommend the C5 ignition. I don't regret putting one on my 1100 and I am working on a budget for one for my 1200 too.

Personally I would leave the stock ignition and points if you don't want to spring the cash for a full ignition upgrade whether Dyna or C5.. Tried and proven reliable.
I certainly wouldn't go for a full tilt Dyna because all you really gain is no more points and maybe a bit hotter spark for almost the same price as a C5 which provides much more improvement.

May as well add soldering the 3 yellow stator wires to the list.
Same 3 overheat at the regulator too.

I have been reading a whole lot of your posts lately Dan :BigGrin:

Part of the rebuild is converting to a single carb, as the old ones are pretty well thrashed. They would need at a minimum a full rebuild and 2 of the 4 towers rebuilt as well. A bunch of the screws were stripped (PO didn't know what JIS screwdrivers were I assume). So I am going with a rebuilt Weber 32/32 I got from Ebay for $40 and DKL's PVC manifold design. Almost got eh manifold built over the weekend, but it was pretty cold in Ohio.

So going Weber single carb would you still recommend staying stock ignition (assuming it is working properly), or would ponying up for a C5 be worth it? I don't have the cash at the moment for a C5, but could save up for a while if its needed.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144682#p144682:2fiw5giu said:

akolleth » 2 minutes ago[/url]":2fiw5giu]
I have been reading a whole lot of your posts lately Dan :BigGrin:

Part of the rebuild is converting to a single carb, as the old ones are pretty well thrashed. They would need at a minimum a full rebuild and 2 of the 4 towers rebuilt as well. A bunch of the screws were stripped (PO didn't know what JIS screwdrivers were I assume). So I am going with a rebuilt Weber 32/32 I got from Ebay for $40 and DKL's PVC manifold design. Almost got eh manifold built over the weekend, but it was pretty cold in Ohio.

So going Weber single carb would you still recommend staying stock ignition (assuming it is working properly), or would ponying up for a C5 be worth it? I don't have the cash at the moment for a C5, but could save up for a while if its needed.

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Cool. single carbs are fun!

Ok, I would stay with the points because advancing timing some does seem to have an effect on what the single carb wants to see and points gives you that capability to some degree.
Getting it running the best it can on the single after rehabbing the stock ignition and points to it's fullest, is what I would do.

Btw, you need to update your profile. You're an owner now! :yahoo: :moped: :Egyptian:

It all sounds good. I would suggest you also check the water pump for any bearing play.

Interesting.
I'm not yet convinced that the touted ignition or carb mods are necessary or worthwhile. However I will follow threads about these mods including this one.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144723#p144723:2yx2hsrn said:

Terry » Today, 2:26 pm[/url]":2yx2hsrn]
Interesting.
I'm not yet convinced that the touted ignition or carb mods are necessary or worthwhile. However I will follow threads about these mods including this one.

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Yes most that haven't experienced a single carb say the same thing.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144723#p144723:omo2msrc said:

Terry » Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:26 pm[/url]"mo2msrc]
Interesting.
I'm not yet convinced that the touted ignition or carb mods are necessary or worthwhile. However I will follow threads about these mods including this one.

Click to expand...

Necessary? They are not if the stock parts work. Progressive springs, shocks, bar risers, custom wheels or brakes are not necessary either but can all be very nice improvements.

The reason I am going single carb is because my original carbs are trashed. My carbs need a complete rebuild, plus they need at least 2 of the float towers rebuilt (leaking into the plenum), and the PO apparently didn't know what JIS screws were as at least a couple that I can see are already stripped. So already going into it I would be looking at least $250 to do it myself plus a whole lot of time and energy, and a whole lotta hoping and praying the stripped screws won't be a deal breaker.

For my circumstances with a trashed carb set, the conversion to single carb is a no brainer. The conversion is not for everyone as its not plug and play. it requires some level of mechanical and engineering aptitude. But it is right for me and for my budget, as I can get it done for all told around $125 out the door. Its already been a challenge to come up with the mechanical adapters, choke mechanisms and the like, but part of that for me is the fascination. When I am done with it I will be able to look at it and have a bit of pride at what I built.

Don't forget MOLY-60 on the final drive fingers and u-joint if you're planning for maximum operating life.

I didn't see any notes about checking tire condition and purchase dates.

single carb is a great adventure were trying hard to make it easier here .... i am about at the end of the road with it ...on the good side my single is running fantastic and there just isnt much to do now but ride .... my bike is where one can get if determin to do so ...and the satisfaction is second to none when you know it was you who did it...its simply amazing what this motor can do over the stock honda level :BigGrin:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144790#p144790:2axhxd9u said:

joedrum » Today, 9:30 am[/url]":2axhxd9u]
single carb is a great adventure were trying hard to make it easier here .... i am about at the end of the road with it ...on the good side my single is running fantastic and there just isnt much to do now but ride .... my bike is where one can get if determin to do so ...and the satisfaction is second to none when you know it was you who did it...its simply amazing what this motor can do over the stock honda level :BigGrin:

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Yes lots of experimental mods done here on the 32/32 dft to tune it the way it should be.
A topic all its own is in order.

If you are not replacing tires at least pull the rear tire off and check the splines, if good re grease with Honda moly60. I don't think these get pulled and greased as often as they should and a bad spline could really put a damper on your road trip. I have a post about what to look for on the 12's, not applicable to you but if you don't look at it you could have this -


and trust me.....you don't want that 150 miles into the mountains somewhere.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144797#p144797:hloc8hqs said:

deanbw » Today, 12:11 pm[/url]":hloc8hqs]
If you are not replacing tires at least pull the rear tire off and check the splines, if good re grease with Honda moly60. I don't think these get pulled and greased as often as they should and a bad spline could really put a damper on your road trip. I have a post about what to look for on the 12's, not applicable to you but if you don't look at it you could have this -
View attachment 1

and trust me.....you don't want that 150 miles into the mountains somewhere.

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I agree with the splines needing cleaned and greased more often but not with using Moly 60 grease.
The stuff doesn't stick very long and runs out.
I use an Extreme pressure multi-purpose marine grade grease with Moly.