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Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 5:21 pm
  

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Location: Prestonsburg ky
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I think I may have a dead stator on my 1982 1100A My question is this how do i check the stator if and if it is bad should I change to altenator how much will it cost to change vs replacing stator and can I do the mod myself or no? thanks for the help

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Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 5:37 pm
  

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check three yellow wires to each other with ohm meter and each to ground. What you can or cannot do is a question of your ability to use tools and apply what you read. Plenty of help and info here. A couple recent threads on the stator also. If you post in the introduction forum you'll be greeted by a lot o new friends. Welcome.

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Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 6:36 pm
  

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welcome from tn.

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Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 7:04 pm
  

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Location: Prestonsburg ky
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so it could be the plug by the battery causing me all this headache? do they make a conversion kit for the GL1100?

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Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 7:33 pm
  

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You can check out this video tutorial on by-passing the stator connector. This connector has a history of being a sore spot. It gets hot, and melts, or it corroded enough to not pass electricity properly. Either way, the connection here needs to be removed, and soldered.

Disconnect the stator connector, in front of the battery. There are 3 yellow wires in it. With an ohm-meter, check each of the three wires to each other for continuity. There should be continuity between each of them.
Then, check for continuity from each one of the yellow wires and ground(engine casing, or battery). There should be NONE. If there is, the stator is shorted.

Changing the stator itself really isn't that hard to do(you do have to pull the engine)...the real trick is paying attention to EVERYTHING you take off, and making sure it all gets put back in. See my thread on "GL1100 Stator Swap" for what can happen if you don't pay attention, or get in a hurry... :rant:

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Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: May 17th, 2012, 8:02 pm
  

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thanks for the replys guys :) I checked that plug a minute ago as I took my battery out to recharge and it looks green on the inside of it :-S my next question is this do they make a conversion kit for the GL1100 for an altenator?

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Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: May 18th, 2012, 4:27 am
  

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From what I unnerstand, there IS a conversion "kit" available for the 1200, but it requires mods to fit the 1100...I may be wrong. Lots of guys have done their own conversions with few problems.

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Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: May 18th, 2012, 10:00 pm
  

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Location: Prestonsburg ky
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okay checked the wires going to the stator here are the results:

Wire A - To Ground = 0

wire b - to ground = 0

Wire c - to ground = 0

Wire A To Wire B = 65 to 67 volts

Wire B to Wire C = 65 to 67 volts

Wire A to Wire C = 65 to 67 volts

I haven't wired the wires together yet i'll do that tommorrow just wanted to post the results does this mean that my bike is charging?

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Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: May 19th, 2012, 4:12 am
  

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Those tests won't tell you if it's charging the battery.
You need to check voltage at the battery while it's running.
Fully charged battery should read 13+ at idle then 14-14.8 at 3000 rpm.

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Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: May 19th, 2012, 6:12 am
  

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rokseptic wrote:
Wire A To Wire B = 65 to 67 volts

Wire B to Wire C = 65 to 67 volts

Wire A to Wire C = 65 to 67 volts


Mine had the same readings with it running, but still was not charging the battery. Did you ohm the three wires to each other? If the ohm test looks good, and you obviously got good A/C voltage coming out of the stator, then you may have a regulator/rectifier issue, or possibly a wiring problem. The connector at the R/R can also get corroded, and hot. You need to check that, too. You'll need to remove the seat, and top shelter(fake tank) to get to it.

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Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: May 19th, 2012, 6:21 am
  

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Yeah I forgot about that, Joel.
I have read that voltage check is the final yay or nay of a good stator but that's not so. Evidently the volts can be good but it won't produce the needed current.

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Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: May 19th, 2012, 6:44 am
  

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i think your lucky so far and as joel said you need to real go over all the connection involing the strator ....those three yellow wires need to be soder connected or something better than three hot wires connected in same crummy connector just dumb way to do it....the rectifier regulator connection need good going over also then it time to check stator for output

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Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: May 19th, 2012, 11:59 am
  

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Location: Prestonsburg ky
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i took the bike out earlier for a test ride after removing the plug the battery seems to be staying charged but i'm going to check the R/R Tommorrow to be safe i got a high school graduation to attend this evening so no time thanks for all the help i'll keep everyone posted with the results/finds Thanks guys :-)

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