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From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
740 carb review also known as DFT DFTA weber
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<blockquote data-quote="joedrum" data-source="post: 137201" data-attributes="member: 98"><p>okay now we get to other things ...my theory on primary barrel tuning ....and this is ... the more air you bring into main jet tube in the primary barrel the better the gas charge atomizing will be ...this is really important ..cause if you dont get out of the blocks good you already lost the race ...and taking off is the where the weakest moment is ...stock carb racks have proved this dang near 40yrs now of stumbling out of the blocks trying to get going ....so in the stock set up in the dft economy carb deal the secondary and primary air bleeds are way off actually backwards in my view ...220 air bleed in secondary ...160 in primary ...</p><p></p><p>first for me is switching these air bleeds 220 in primary and 160 in secondary .... </p><p></p><p>ok after this is done bike is idling good from mix screw and 220 air bleed is in time to check off idle response ... most likely it will bog ....the theory of working to the 220 air is the trump card here and dosnt change ... so you increase the main gas jet in primary till it get to where the bog off idle disappears ... this seems to around 120 gas jet on the hooched out 1200 motors probably about the same on stock bikes too we are very low in rpm and not much air flow for there be to much difference...once you get good primary action not perfect action just good personally i like to dial in the carb with airbox off ...so i can look into see if there is any raw gas present ...if there is something not right..... atomize gas should be all you see ....but in this condition perfect is not what you want that comes a little later ...you do want it to be close ..having a bit to much air is not a bad thing so slight bogging in repeated revs is not bad thing...as when the airbox gets put on air will be cut some and instantly improve this .....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="joedrum, post: 137201, member: 98"] okay now we get to other things ...my theory on primary barrel tuning ....and this is ... the more air you bring into main jet tube in the primary barrel the better the gas charge atomizing will be ...this is really important ..cause if you dont get out of the blocks good you already lost the race ...and taking off is the where the weakest moment is ...stock carb racks have proved this dang near 40yrs now of stumbling out of the blocks trying to get going ....so in the stock set up in the dft economy carb deal the secondary and primary air bleeds are way off actually backwards in my view ...220 air bleed in secondary ...160 in primary ... first for me is switching these air bleeds 220 in primary and 160 in secondary .... ok after this is done bike is idling good from mix screw and 220 air bleed is in time to check off idle response ... most likely it will bog ....the theory of working to the 220 air is the trump card here and dosnt change ... so you increase the main gas jet in primary till it get to where the bog off idle disappears ... this seems to around 120 gas jet on the hooched out 1200 motors probably about the same on stock bikes too we are very low in rpm and not much air flow for there be to much difference...once you get good primary action not perfect action just good personally i like to dial in the carb with airbox off ...so i can look into see if there is any raw gas present ...if there is something not right..... atomize gas should be all you see ....but in this condition perfect is not what you want that comes a little later ...you do want it to be close ..having a bit to much air is not a bad thing so slight bogging in repeated revs is not bad thing...as when the airbox gets put on air will be cut some and instantly improve this ..... [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
740 carb review also known as DFT DFTA weber
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