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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW
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<blockquote data-quote="joedrum" data-source="post: 185909" data-attributes="member: 98"><p>ok when it comes to grinder tech ..here the basics ...you would want to use a worn ginder wheel that looks smooth and is smaller than new ..they tend to get very much better in operation when the edge has been work off the wheel just a bit ....you can practice using it on something else of like material ....you never push down when make a finish cut ,,this is what causes traction and bye bye grinder ...the piston knotch is completely all finish cut ...plain and simple it can go no where without you pushing down traction for it to do so ...it is very close to the cylinder wall yes ...grinders spin around 10,000rpm and actually hover and float in your hands ...like a router does ....there are pics in the hooch thread and the jyd thread that shows the cuts i made ...sheesh to bad i didnt make vids of doing it ...actually this is where im short on how to do stuff ..im lucky to do pics LOL...</p><p></p><p>i will admit my hands are well talented ...ive done all kinds of wood inlay into wood floors and furniture ...and can make a cnc machine work look like a hack job in comparison ...there is no tool on earth better than smart hands period ...the piston notch is no major deal on a scale 1 to 10 id say 4 ....just stay in bounds your fitting nothing ...you could do this totally by hand the pistons are soft really....but i wouldnt try that it really takes stout strong smart hands to do that ...</p><p></p><p>truth is ..i think dreading the thought is the biggest monster here ...i spent about 15 to 30 minutes tops doing all 4 pistons with small breaks between each one to refocus....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="joedrum, post: 185909, member: 98"] ok when it comes to grinder tech ..here the basics ...you would want to use a worn ginder wheel that looks smooth and is smaller than new ..they tend to get very much better in operation when the edge has been work off the wheel just a bit ....you can practice using it on something else of like material ....you never push down when make a finish cut ,,this is what causes traction and bye bye grinder ...the piston knotch is completely all finish cut ...plain and simple it can go no where without you pushing down traction for it to do so ...it is very close to the cylinder wall yes ...grinders spin around 10,000rpm and actually hover and float in your hands ...like a router does ....there are pics in the hooch thread and the jyd thread that shows the cuts i made ...sheesh to bad i didnt make vids of doing it ...actually this is where im short on how to do stuff ..im lucky to do pics LOL... i will admit my hands are well talented ...ive done all kinds of wood inlay into wood floors and furniture ...and can make a cnc machine work look like a hack job in comparison ...there is no tool on earth better than smart hands period ...the piston notch is no major deal on a scale 1 to 10 id say 4 ....just stay in bounds your fitting nothing ...you could do this totally by hand the pistons are soft really....but i wouldnt try that it really takes stout strong smart hands to do that ... truth is ..i think dreading the thought is the biggest monster here ...i spent about 15 to 30 minutes tops doing all 4 pistons with small breaks between each one to refocus.... [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW
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