Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
Another 34 Pic 3 Build!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="fivestring" data-source="post: 178775" data-attributes="member: 4869"><p>I got the micro bits today.</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29417][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>I soldered and drilled to .35mm. It ran lean even at 4.25 turns out. I could get the idle as low as i wanted but there was a big hesitation on acceleration from idle.</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 29418][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p>So I drilled to .40. Pretty much the same scenario even at 4+ turns out on the idle mix (small) screw again. Then I noticed if I held the rpms between 2k-3k the engine would slowly decrease rpms and die. If I let go of the throttle before it quit, it would recover and go back to idle. Above 3k rpms it was fine and would run as long as I wanted. After playing with the idle speed (big) screw I noticed if I turned up my idle speed just a little the bike would not die at 2-3k. That whole flat/dying thing just vanished. So it seems there is a correlation between the big idle speed screw and the off-idle performance. I believe the main is keeping things alive above 3k and the small idle mix screw is doing the same below 2k but that idle speed screw must be supplying fuel in between.</p><p></p><p>Back to the bench, I drilled to .45. This seems pretty good. I get a decent idle at 2.5 turns (best vacuum as well), and I get real good, quick response when applying throttle. And I can get my idle to around 1300 without developing that dead spot at 2-3k. Below that idle speed and the dying thing redevelopes.</p><p></p><p>Haven't road tested yet. Still installing new controls and lighting.</p><p></p><p>Guru's ideas and thoughts welcome.☺</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fivestring, post: 178775, member: 4869"] I got the micro bits today. [GALLERY=media, 29417][/GALLERY] I soldered and drilled to .35mm. It ran lean even at 4.25 turns out. I could get the idle as low as i wanted but there was a big hesitation on acceleration from idle. [GALLERY=media, 29418][/GALLERY] So I drilled to .40. Pretty much the same scenario even at 4+ turns out on the idle mix (small) screw again. Then I noticed if I held the rpms between 2k-3k the engine would slowly decrease rpms and die. If I let go of the throttle before it quit, it would recover and go back to idle. Above 3k rpms it was fine and would run as long as I wanted. After playing with the idle speed (big) screw I noticed if I turned up my idle speed just a little the bike would not die at 2-3k. That whole flat/dying thing just vanished. So it seems there is a correlation between the big idle speed screw and the off-idle performance. I believe the main is keeping things alive above 3k and the small idle mix screw is doing the same below 2k but that idle speed screw must be supplying fuel in between. Back to the bench, I drilled to .45. This seems pretty good. I get a decent idle at 2.5 turns (best vacuum as well), and I get real good, quick response when applying throttle. And I can get my idle to around 1300 without developing that dead spot at 2-3k. Below that idle speed and the dying thing redevelopes. Haven't road tested yet. Still installing new controls and lighting. Guru's ideas and thoughts welcome.☺ [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
Another 34 Pic 3 Build!
Top