Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
Carburetor Floats
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="bronko37" data-source="post: 142041" data-attributes="member: 3617"><p>The pins must be absolutley straight and perfectly polished. I chucked my pins in a drill and polished the sh*t out of them. I also put a little chamfer on the corners as the ends of the pins are often slightly mushroomed. The pins should slide thru the floats and the float posts easily and smoothly, with evrything dry. You should not have to drive the pins into the post or use any amount of force to push the pins thru the floats. Personally, while its still cold, I would pull the rack and ensure that all of those pins are perfect. And everything is polished. </p><p></p><p>Also, I took a same sized drill as the pin, you will have to measure to the thousandth using a micrometer, and used the drill thru the posts and floats to clean them out. I used only my fingers to drive the drill, do not drive it with a machine. You are not trying to remove any additional material from the holes, just any old varnish that has collected. Any other method imho is not really fixing the problem. </p><p></p><p>When you re assemble everything make sure the pin slides completely thru both the posts and the floats all the way through. You will never have a problem with em sticking again. Rather do it right now than when it's warm out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bronko37, post: 142041, member: 3617"] The pins must be absolutley straight and perfectly polished. I chucked my pins in a drill and polished the sh*t out of them. I also put a little chamfer on the corners as the ends of the pins are often slightly mushroomed. The pins should slide thru the floats and the float posts easily and smoothly, with evrything dry. You should not have to drive the pins into the post or use any amount of force to push the pins thru the floats. Personally, while its still cold, I would pull the rack and ensure that all of those pins are perfect. And everything is polished. Also, I took a same sized drill as the pin, you will have to measure to the thousandth using a micrometer, and used the drill thru the posts and floats to clean them out. I used only my fingers to drive the drill, do not drive it with a machine. You are not trying to remove any additional material from the holes, just any old varnish that has collected. Any other method imho is not really fixing the problem. When you re assemble everything make sure the pin slides completely thru both the posts and the floats all the way through. You will never have a problem with em sticking again. Rather do it right now than when it's warm out. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
Carburetor Floats
Top