Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1200
Drips from under rear brake disc
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="AApple" data-source="post: 174064" data-attributes="member: 56"><p>To remove the rack, you'll need to remove the two acorn nuts on either side, where the upper shock mounts. Then there is one bolt that goes thru the center of rear fender(in front of the brake light housing) that needs to be removed. Then there are two shields on either side with two bolts each to be removed. There are two bolts that go thru the rack where the shields are, that also go thru the frame, and the fender. Those bolts come in from the inside of the fender. Take the nuts off, and push(may need a few taps with a hammer) the bolts to the inside just far enough to clear the rack. The rack will come off then. No worries about the fender falling off or anything else. One side of the rack has a slot that allows you to slide that side back, and then pull it to the other side to get the other side off the stud mount. Time consuming, but not difficult, or dangerous. :good:</p><p></p><p>A little visual from the Service Manual...</p><p></p><p>[GALLERY=media, 11791][/GALLERY]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I'm a little late to the party, it seems...I been out doing yard werk. :blush: I got your email...there is no worries on drilling the small hole in the seal to remove it. The seal will drill easily....once thru it, the steel washer will stop the bit from going any further. :good:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AApple, post: 174064, member: 56"] To remove the rack, you'll need to remove the two acorn nuts on either side, where the upper shock mounts. Then there is one bolt that goes thru the center of rear fender(in front of the brake light housing) that needs to be removed. Then there are two shields on either side with two bolts each to be removed. There are two bolts that go thru the rack where the shields are, that also go thru the frame, and the fender. Those bolts come in from the inside of the fender. Take the nuts off, and push(may need a few taps with a hammer) the bolts to the inside just far enough to clear the rack. The rack will come off then. No worries about the fender falling off or anything else. One side of the rack has a slot that allows you to slide that side back, and then pull it to the other side to get the other side off the stud mount. Time consuming, but not difficult, or dangerous. :good: A little visual from the Service Manual... [GALLERY=media, 11791][/GALLERY] I'm a little late to the party, it seems...I been out doing yard werk. :blush: I got your email...there is no worries on drilling the small hole in the seal to remove it. The seal will drill easily....once thru it, the steel washer will stop the bit from going any further. :good: [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1200
Drips from under rear brake disc
Top