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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
GL1100 stator story
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<blockquote data-quote="mickster" data-source="post: 52692" data-attributes="member: 2039"><p>Yes that would be true and could easily be monitored by a voltmeter on the bike. What is happening is the output is so low that the regulator is basically removed from the equation and the heavy load causes the voltage to be out of spec and in turn the current would be out of spec in the opposite direction. </p><p></p><p>That really shouldn't be a problem since the only thing that would cause that situation is drastic overload (like a bad battery/bad reg) or unrealistic low rpm for the needs of the bike (drop to a lower gear if moving, increase idle speed if standing still). As long as you have 12 volts (which you would want anyway otherwise your battery would be dead at the end of your ride), you should not be causing any damage. A good rule of thumb is the battery should be at a slight charge at all times.</p><p></p><p>Also, yes bad connections not only cause further heat and damage, they also change the properties of the circuit causing things usually to go even farther out of specification. Since there is only two connections from the stator to reg/rec, its definitely worth double checking to make sure that the connections are good. I just checked my bike today and both connectors are fine, but at 30 years old I imagine my bike is not the majority.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mickster, post: 52692, member: 2039"] Yes that would be true and could easily be monitored by a voltmeter on the bike. What is happening is the output is so low that the regulator is basically removed from the equation and the heavy load causes the voltage to be out of spec and in turn the current would be out of spec in the opposite direction. That really shouldn't be a problem since the only thing that would cause that situation is drastic overload (like a bad battery/bad reg) or unrealistic low rpm for the needs of the bike (drop to a lower gear if moving, increase idle speed if standing still). As long as you have 12 volts (which you would want anyway otherwise your battery would be dead at the end of your ride), you should not be causing any damage. A good rule of thumb is the battery should be at a slight charge at all times. Also, yes bad connections not only cause further heat and damage, they also change the properties of the circuit causing things usually to go even farther out of specification. Since there is only two connections from the stator to reg/rec, its definitely worth double checking to make sure that the connections are good. I just checked my bike today and both connectors are fine, but at 30 years old I imagine my bike is not the majority. [/QUOTE]
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