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Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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<blockquote data-quote="ianstaley" data-source="post: 150122" data-attributes="member: 2989"><p>Ah I see your point but, then I will have learnt something new. I think everyone should endeavour to learn something new every day, no matter how small, because once learnt you can pass that on to friends on my forums. Like today my back wheel joined the front at the blaster/powder coater, so I told him about my problem with the forks, and did he have any ideas on how to change things, can I blast them, what about inside the stanchions.</p><p></p><p>The stanchions can't be blasted on the inside, but you can get rid of the rust quite easy, block up the one end of the stanchion, get some Brick Acid rr one of it's other names is Muriatic Acid or Hydrochloric Acid. You need a solution of about 10%. Block up one end of teh stanchion and pour in the acid, leave it for about 10 minutes and drain, wash it well, and repeat if needed. The springs, they can be blasted without problem. Inside the fork bottoms also no problem, they can be blasted too just use the right media. </p><p></p><p>So once I get a new 2 me fork and the forks are done, they will be ready for the final treatment. As yet undecided. :yahoo: </p><p></p><p>And when they get done I will get some pics of the results they will be posted as --- :useless:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ianstaley, post: 150122, member: 2989"] Ah I see your point but, then I will have learnt something new. I think everyone should endeavour to learn something new every day, no matter how small, because once learnt you can pass that on to friends on my forums. Like today my back wheel joined the front at the blaster/powder coater, so I told him about my problem with the forks, and did he have any ideas on how to change things, can I blast them, what about inside the stanchions. The stanchions can't be blasted on the inside, but you can get rid of the rust quite easy, block up the one end of the stanchion, get some Brick Acid rr one of it's other names is Muriatic Acid or Hydrochloric Acid. You need a solution of about 10%. Block up one end of teh stanchion and pour in the acid, leave it for about 10 minutes and drain, wash it well, and repeat if needed. The springs, they can be blasted without problem. Inside the fork bottoms also no problem, they can be blasted too just use the right media. So once I get a new 2 me fork and the forks are done, they will be ready for the final treatment. As yet undecided. :yahoo: And when they get done I will get some pics of the results they will be posted as --- :useless: [/QUOTE]
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