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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
Radio and indicater dead.
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<blockquote data-quote="wilcoy02" data-source="post: 72082" data-attributes="member: 1994"><p>The components are attached by nuts on the outside of the fairing. look down the side of the fairing where the front forks and go down the fairing. where your headlight aiming knob is at. You will see little 8mm nuts usually 4 to a component. Take the nuts and washer off and then remove the component from the inside through the light hole or left pocket area. </p><p>The tuner is bolted from the bottom of the left side by your knee- by two bolts and nuts. By the fairing bracket from the bottom.</p><p></p><p>The cb unit is on the left (standing in front of the bike) and can be gotten to by the right turn signal.</p><p></p><p>The amp will be the first component you see from inside the left pocket(sitting on the bike) with the 4 or 5 main wires into it. They have a push lock on each cable to keep them in place. Just squeeze the side of the cable and it will come out. Before you do that write down the order of the color wires from top to bottom. Will be easier when you put it back together. putting back in connect the bottom to the top. lot easier.</p><p></p><p>coat hanger is your best friend when putting the nest back in to the fairing. Does not matter if wires go on top or on bottom when going around the headlight.</p><p></p><p>Any futher questions do not hestitate as I have been there many times. Took me three days the first time and now it takes me about 4-5 hours to take it all out and put it all back in.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wilcoy02, post: 72082, member: 1994"] The components are attached by nuts on the outside of the fairing. look down the side of the fairing where the front forks and go down the fairing. where your headlight aiming knob is at. You will see little 8mm nuts usually 4 to a component. Take the nuts and washer off and then remove the component from the inside through the light hole or left pocket area. The tuner is bolted from the bottom of the left side by your knee- by two bolts and nuts. By the fairing bracket from the bottom. The cb unit is on the left (standing in front of the bike) and can be gotten to by the right turn signal. The amp will be the first component you see from inside the left pocket(sitting on the bike) with the 4 or 5 main wires into it. They have a push lock on each cable to keep them in place. Just squeeze the side of the cable and it will come out. Before you do that write down the order of the color wires from top to bottom. Will be easier when you put it back together. putting back in connect the bottom to the top. lot easier. coat hanger is your best friend when putting the nest back in to the fairing. Does not matter if wires go on top or on bottom when going around the headlight. Any futher questions do not hestitate as I have been there many times. Took me three days the first time and now it takes me about 4-5 hours to take it all out and put it all back in. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
Radio and indicater dead.
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