Turn Signal indicator creating pulsing issue.

[joedrum]

im not an expert but the gas today is the worist gas thats ever been offered to the market ...by volume it has less energy than gas from the sixties before all this epa crap started

with the addition of alcohol in the gas you get a very corosive mix with a lot less energy

the wings were made with carbs with small passages espicaly on idle ,the gas with its bigger volume and less energy its no wonder that everybody has trouble getting there bikes to idle good and for sure its the biggest reason for the off idle stumbling that everbody deals with...going from idle curcuts to mains circuts with the gas of today makes this a mis match in working smoothly just from the volume per energy loss in todays gas

when farming with big four wheel drive tractors with 1000 cubic inch engines during planting season running full blast allthe time you have no time for pit stops my tractor held 120gals of deisil and when it had been runing for days... id drain the oil out of the motor and right in the deisil tank and fill the rest with deisil and go .i could do all this without taking one bolt or plug out the hardest thing to do was put in the oil....no oil waist ....no time loss....and energy gain on the fuel side...tractors like this can go though 10 gals an hr the old framers that passed this knowledge to me were of a breed of self taught do any thing people that did not rely on the plug and play ways of today

as far as fuel additives go lets say deisil ...theres lots more energy in volume of deisil as compared with gas espisaly today gas so when you mix some deisil with gas you get an energy gain and when this mix burns the deisil burns to and the fuel is more powerful ...never more evident than when you do this in a gas tractor and how obvious it is on the geater power the tractor has....the motors run quieter,smoother and last longer

2cycle oil is a no brainer its made to mix with gas with mild cleaning stuff to keep carbs clean ....atf is about the same in the way it acts...old oil has lots of energy in it i dont use this in my bike i have lots of uses for old oil around my place but all these things have lots of energy in them a lot more than alcohol and if you get it to go boom in the motor its going to produce more power than todays gas and is better on the motor and carbs and takes some of the mismatch out that todays gas brings in

theres been times when my bike kept up to or run away from some bikes it wasnt suppose to

from general talk on forums it seems that most have lugging problems below 3000 rpm in road gear ...mine dosent seem to be that way i can go down to 2500rpm
and will cruise at 2000rpm on flat roads ... my bike also has the stoutess gearing you can have in a 1000 or 1100 setup

im not a fan of gas treatments that clean way to much im sure this helps bikes that are in bad shape but you have to watch them and get off the sauce as quick as possible so you dont want to create leaks everywhere in the carbs .

this is why i go for the things that can be used contantly and provide an ernergy boost to the crummy fuel thats aloud to be sold

i hope this makes sense to you , not trying to change anybodys thinking, just sharing what i do :heat:

 

[Joep]

My FnL said mixing 10% Diesel into the gas will give it an octane boost.. just getting the consistant 10% is the issue

 

[Tomahawk]

im not an expert but the gas today is the worist gas thats ever been offered to the market ...by volume it has less energy than gas from the sixties before all this epa crap started

with the addition of alcohol in the gas you get a very corosive mix with a lot less energy

the wings were made with carbs with small passages espicaly on idle ,the gas with its bigger volume and less energy its no wonder that everybody has trouble getting there bikes to idle good and for sure its the biggest reason for the off idle stumbling that everbody deals with...going from idle curcuts to mains circuts with the gas of today makes this a mis match in working smoothly just from the volume per energy loss in todays gas

when farming with big four wheel drive tractors with 1000 cubic inch engines during planting season running full blast allthe time you have no time for pit stops my tractor held 120gals of deisil and when it had been runing for days... id drain the oil out of the motor and right in the deisil tank and fill the rest with deisil and go .i could do all this without taking one bolt or plug out the hardest thing to do was put in the oil....no oil waist ....no time loss....and energy gain on the fuel side...tractors like this can go though 10 gals an hr the old framers that passed this knowledge to me were of a breed of self taught do any thing people that did not rely on the plug and play ways of today

as far as fuel additives go lets say deisil ...theres lots more energy in volume of deisil as compared with gas espisaly today gas so when you mix some deisil with gas you get an energy gain and when this mix burns the deisil burns to and the fuel is more powerful ...never more evident than when you do this in a gas tractor and how obvious it is on the geater power the tractor has....the motors run quieter,smoother and last longer

2cycle oil is a no brainer its made to mix with gas with mild cleaning stuff to keep carbs clean ....atf is about the same in the way it acts...old oil has lots of energy in it i dont use this in my bike i have lots of uses for old oil around my place but all these things have lots of energy in them a lot more than alcohol and if you get it to go boom in the motor its going to produce more power than todays gas and is better on the motor and carbs and takes some of the mismatch out that todays gas brings in

theres been times when my bike kept up to or run away from some bikes it wasnt suppose to

from general talk on forums it seems that most have lugging problems below 3000 rpm in road gear ...mine dosent seem to be that way i can go down to 2500rpm
and will cruise at 2000rpm on flat roads ... my bike also has the stoutess gearing you can have in a 1000 or 1100 setup

im not a fan of gas treatments that clean way to much im sure this helps bikes that are in bad shape but you have to watch them and get off the sauce as quick as possible so you dont want to create leaks everywhere in the carbs .

this is why i go for the things that can be used contantly and provide an ernergy boost to the crummy fuel thats aloud to be sold

i hope this makes sense to you , not trying to change anybodys thinking, just sharing what i do :heat:

I appreciate your in depth explanation and think I would like to give a couple of these a try. What you say makes a lot of sense and I again appreciate you taking the time to Share your experience with us

Ride Safe
Cheers
Tom

 

[joedrum]

getting a perfect mix is not the determining factor on a mix ratio....the determining factor is the motor itself its compression,fuel system,size and what it runs on....rule of thumb on a wing would be you can run as much mix that it will burn or not smoke that indicates burning and not exploding cleanly

in my case ive never realy ever put to much in to where it smoke bad and ive never tried to test the limits on this ...just never cared to its enough for me that what i do put in has worked so good on the bikes consistanty.

 

[dan filipi]

Interesting discussion.

2 stroke oil would lubricate the valves and cylinders and would raise compression. Same with diesel fuel.

2 stroke engines are mixed anywhere from 20:1 all the way to 80:1.
Tranny fluid is cheap. I might try some, just need to figure out how much.

 

[Tory]

My thinking is that if there is a problem,removing the thermostat doesnt fix the problem,it address's the symtom.(Unless the stat is the problem) If everything is right,it shouldnt matter what oil,gas,accesarys or coolant you have.Something is wrong and it needs to be addressed.

If it where me ,Id search out the main problem and adress it.If it is a head gasket slowly leaking internally then damage may be done to the engine by putting it off.

An engine runs most efficiant at 200 degrees,thats why they use thermostats to maintain a consistant temp.Not that it will hurt much to run without it,but the bike will warmup slower,once its up to temp the stat does nothing to hinder the cooling ability.

I would first remove the faux tank and check the coolant level in the radiator,I know when mine was down just 3/4 pint it brought the temp up from an average of just over 1/4 gauge when full to almost 3/4 when low.Remembering the fan is mounted high on the radiator.

If it is full,I would next change the thermostat,removing it would be a good test but they are cheap,and getting to it is tough so just change it and move forward.
The next step would be a pressure test on both the bike and the cap,and next a combustion leak test.

Eventually you will figure it out and feel better knowing its fixed before ventureing out to many hundred miles from home.

Just my $.02 Good luck with it.Tory

Im with dan on the gas,89 octane is more efficiant than 92,cost less and the bike runs great on it.Been running the cheap stuff for years with no problems,although I do add a cap of MMO about once a month for the slides.
The secret to keeping them clean is to never stop riding :grin:

 

[frenkeje]

Very great info and insight knowledge. I noticed idle is a little sparatic. I have cleaned the carbs 3 times due to finding out that when they changed the gas about 4 years ago, I also learned they had big problems with underground storage tanks. The added mixtures.. not sure if ethenol is what is causing it.. but the crap added eats away at older coated gas tanks. It ate the paint off the inside of my tank. I thought premium would be a better choice, but some has said this doesn't really matter. So, I am going to mix some ATF fluid with my gas after your advice. Would you estimate a 1 full ounce per tank?

Also, I have pulled the thermostat and it kept it about 3/4 hot. I did notice that my fuel air hose from the gas tank was crimped and melted shut on the muffler. This brought this down a little as well. Much improved. I decided to pull everything and check Pump.. which looks brand new. I working on putting back the stock radiator. I was sold on the Aluminum 2 core was great.. but, I didn't realize that I had copper fins.. which.. they say the aluminum is superior .. in the fine lines because the soider on the older rads restrict the flow.. but.. after real knowledge info.. Copper actually transfers the heat 50% more than aluminum. Beware being sold on a aluminum rad seller. I should have it in tonight. I will update you.

I also read that the theromstat can be tested in boiling water. Heat it up in a pot.. the wax inside should expand.. and open it up.. if not.. it is bad.

Excellent info. Thanks so much.

 

[joedrum]

im not real scientific with all this but my ruotine is to put in one of the little plastic 2cycle oil 8oz container of atf per 10 dollars of gas ...it sounds like a lot but its not ...

you could proably get away with alot more....but why its hard enough to keep enough on the bike....deisil is another deal all together as for mixing deisil is a lot quicker burn than oil and can mix greater volume ive proably never did it the same way twice ive just pour it in out of a can and mostly use it when im around home to much trouble on the road its a great power booster and very good on these old wings

 

[joedrum]

as far as radiators go frenkeje th 1200 radiators are smaller than the 1000 and 1100 radiators and if i had a 1200 id would want to put 1000 or 1100 radiator in it when i could come accross one. im not sure how yrs of schooling you go to learn its better to put smaller radiator on a bigger motor but im glad i miss this education....

on another issue the wings motor has on purpose or by accident a built in oil cooler the oil and water go right by each other this is a very effective oil cooler .... i have no idea about the oilcooler you have but i do know this has to be quite a load on the sator or alt.... which is a weak spot on old wings and if it were me id try living without the oil cooler .....its to much load on the bike ....and you need to look in to getting rid of the sator wires connector and soder the wires together to cut resistance and heat down on sator output this is a must do if you havent done this yet......the whole idea that your having dimming lights tells me its struggleing......the sator connector is in the left side cover on the left side of the battery ..a three wire plug all yellow wires on my bike post back on this issue.....

what tory said is true about there might be a problem and proably is somewhere and taking the thermostat out is just curing the smytoms and not the problem but this is better than nothing and you can figure out boundries of the problem and what the problem is ....it might be that putting the old radiator back in may make things worst as long as you keep posting like you are i dont think anything is going to get out of hand.......

theres a very long winded post in the 1200 tech. forum titled 1200 overheating that has some good info in it and how hard it is to find some problems ....but on the plus side this forum has been though it and its knowledge now :mrgreen: