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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#16  Unread postPosted: April 5th, 2016, 6:49 am

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Location: Victoria, BC,
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 12:52 am
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My Bike Models: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
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I haven't seen anyone mention the 12V sense wire at the regulator. There is a black wire at the regulator that is from the bikes electrical system, this wire is letting the regulator know what voltage the system is operating at. The 'sense wire goes through connectors and switches before the regulator. A simple test to verify its function, is to measure battery '+' voltage and the sense wire voltage. Using your Volt number above, battery '+' = 11.7, the sense wire needs to be within .5V or less of that batt V number. This is just one more charging health circuit test. I doubt the sense wire is at a higher than Batt V, but if it were the system won't charge the battery properly.


I found information regarding the sense wire for the RR on the GWDocs forum. As you mention and I agree with, the sense wire also supplies power to a host other items and the voltage getting to the RR through this wire could be significantly less than what is actual at the battery. This in essence could cause an overcharging of the battery if the difference is great enough because if the RR senses a low voltage at the battery even if it is not the RR will allow the appropriate current/voltage to flow to top up the battery to the "perceived" level. If there is a 1 to 2 VDC drop through the wiring/connectors at the RR, this should be constant as the battery is charged and the end charge will be 1 to 2 VDC higher than necessary.

This also applies to the coils as well. The wire from the kill switch providing 12VDC power to the coils also provides power to other items and the voltage getting to the coils can be less than 12 VDC resulting in a weaker spark.

I put in a relay that is switched on with the wire from the kill switch so that the bike shuts down when the switch is used. The 12 VDC power comes from a fuse block and each wire (one to the coils and one to the RR) is fused and is a truer 12 VDC reading than through the existing and old wiring and connectors. My theory is that I have better spark from the coils, and the RR and charging circuit is operating as it is supposed to.

I read a post where a fellow took the old stator-RR wiring connector to a friends lab after he removed it from his bike and soldered the respective wires. The lab results indicated that the conducting ability of the connectors had degraded some 50% from original over the 30 some years the connector had been installed. It was an interesting post.

Cheers

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"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"

Ernest


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#17  Unread postPosted: April 5th, 2016, 6:59 am

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Any time the resistance is reduced things run happier for sure.
Was the case when I replaced the fuse panel with a blade type, and put a relay on its main feed, all the lights got brighter.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#18  Unread postPosted: April 5th, 2016, 7:29 am

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Location: Lebanon, PA
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 4:52 am
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My Bike Models: 1984 GL1200 Standard - 19,000 miles

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1996 CN250 Helix -27,000
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Any time the resistance is reduced things run happier for sure.
Was the case when I replaced the fuse panel with a blade type, and put a relay on its main feed, all the lights got brighter.


This reminded me I forgot to install the relay... :head bang:

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Brian
Retired US Navy 1983-2003
If you aren't having fun doing it, find something else to do.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#19  Unread postPosted: April 5th, 2016, 7:47 am

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Location: Rapid City, SD
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 2:52 am
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My Bike Models: 1981 Honda Goldwing GL1100


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I haven't seen anyone mention the 12V sense wire at the regulator. There is a black wire at the regulator that is from the bikes electrical system, this wire is letting the regulator know what voltage the system is operating at. The 'sense wire goes through connectors and switches before the regulator. A simple test to verify its function, is to measure battery '+' voltage and the sense wire voltage. Using your Volt number above, battery '+' = 11.7, the sense wire needs to be within .5V or less of that batt V number. This is just one more charging health circuit test. I doubt the sense wire is at a higher than Batt V, but if it were the system won't charge the battery properly.

Different idea, I noticed you stated when it was "hot" it wouldn't start. If you let it cool down will it start ok, without trickle charging? If so, could be the carbon has built up inside the starter, and the starter is in need of a rebuild/cleaning.

Just other things to keep in mind :)



It does not start up cold either.

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