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 Post subject: Crankshaft Bolt Torque
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 2:36 am

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Morning all,
Does someone know what the crankshaft bolt should be torqued to on an 83 gl1100? The dealers in this area don't even carry parts lists for anything before 94, so they are about as useful as bumps on a pickle.

John

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 3:16 am

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Might try starting here... http://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1153&image_id=11571

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 4:37 am

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I had some time this morning so I dug through the manuals...51-58 ft lbs.

10935

Problem with using a torque wrench is how to keep the crank from turning. I usually put blue lock tite on the threads and hit it with a air impact wrench.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 4:59 am

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Thank you both! I appreciate your efforts, I went through the Clymer manual and didn't see anything in there either, thinking a brain transplant may be in order :whistling:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 2:26 pm

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Throw the Clymer Book of Lies in the trash and get yourself either the Honda or the Haynes manual, or both.

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( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? ) :shock:


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: August 25th, 2016, 2:37 pm

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Thank you both! I appreciate your efforts, I went through the Clymer manual and didn't see anything in there either, thinking a brain transplant may be in order :whistling:

My linked page (with the torque spec) is from the Haynes Owners Workshop manual to 1981. 1983 spec should be the same since everything is identical with respect to the crank bolt and pulleys as far as I know. Having both I haven't seen any differences here.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: August 27th, 2016, 4:29 am

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OK
Have another question, hopefully I won't have to bother y'all again, when I attach the ign wire to the fuse block which terminal do I use? There is not one that says IGN, I have an Acc + and - .
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: August 27th, 2016, 4:39 am

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That should be the "sense" wire so connect it to the accessory +

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: August 27th, 2016, 9:10 am

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I thought the I terminal went to a switched power source, and the Sense went directly to the battery to prevent cooking/overcharging the battery? Guess I have to go do more homework because what I thought I knew won't fill a thimble. :swoon:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: August 27th, 2016, 10:45 am

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I thought the I terminal went to a switched power source, and the Sense went directly to the battery to prevent cooking/overcharging the battery? Guess I have to go do more homework because what I thought I knew won't fill a thimble. :swoon:

That makes more sense. I forgot you were using the 3 wire alternator.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: August 27th, 2016, 1:25 pm

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In most case I just hook the sense wire straight to the alternator D+ terminal. The sense wire is really to provide optimum charging voltage to the battery and compensate for voltage loss in the D+ wire to the battery. If you just use good cable to the battery you won't need to run the sense wire back especially on an Oldwing ( or any other motorcycle that has a short battery supply cable run).

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