Alternator conversion parts and brackets diagrams

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
We don't have specs really but there are topics in the alternator forum showing how others have made them. Most importantly after having done mine is a solid mounting setup to minimize vibration at the same time being adjustable for belt tension. There are various ways of doing this, I used an old garage door opener bracket for the adjustment slide mount. For the solid lower mount I used a solid piece of electrical bus bar bolted to the upper and lower engine mounts with a threaded rod for the pivot. Others have used L channel.
 
Got to the cleaning up of my hand sketch for the alt mounting brackets that I made for my alt mod. I used 1" angle and made to suit.

Apologize for the imperial and metric units. Here is the upper and lower bracket diagram:
Alt Mod Upper and Lower Brackets 001.jpg


Here is a picture of the crank pulley with spacers. The pulley is off a '99 prelude power steering pump:
Crank Pulley Parts.jpg


Here is a picture of the crank pulley pieces together:
Crank Pulley and Spacer.jpg


Here is a picture of the pulley:
Crank Pulley 1.jpg


Hope this helps.

Cheers
 
I will be doing a {how to} thread when I get it completed.
I am at the point of doing the rad fan butchering in the morn. I already bought one 1 inch longer bolts to fit the bottom of rad.
I am going to try and push the top of rad out 1/2in.

Sorry to hi jack your thread
 
When I did my conversion I kicked the bottom of the rad out about an inch then moved the top of the rad out about 1/2 inch as well with a new upper rad hose. This allows lots of room for the fan. Had to remove the left rad fan support post as well to clear the alt belt.

I lowered the fan blade so that it just cleared the rad when operating.

I also made sure that I could change the alt belt if it were necessary.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184764#p184764:3b5z5grj said:
D-50Dave » Sat Dec 10, 2016 11:12 am[/url]":3b5z5grj]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=184760#p184760:3b5z5grj said:
dan filipi » Today, 1:08 pm[/url]":3b5z5grj]
Don't want to see what all I did. I over did it.
Yes, we do want to see, as a cautioary tale. :BigGrin:

+1 :popcorn:
 
This set up looks like my 1200 standard's would be pretty straight forward to do. :good: The fly in the ointment on my 1200 Interstate is that's where my Bad Boy horn, & relay's now mounted. :oops: Fitment's real tight there, :roll: right side appears to be an even worse fit, :Awe: that's is why its on the left side to begin with. :rant: Really like it tucked inside the unmodified plastic, have to look to find it! :yes:
 
One thing I really DO like is that instead of fighting to get a lower radiator hose to fit, the rad tube was cut and angled forward. Now THAT'S the way to do it. I think I invented a couple of new four letter words trying to get a hose on there after pushing out the bottom of the radiator.
 
To push and keep the bottom of the rad out without changing the original mounting bolt, use a threaded union approximately 1-1/2" long. See picture:
bolt union 1.jpg
bolt union 2.jpg


Cheers
 

Attachments

  • -304-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Nut-Rod-Pipe-Fitting-Connector-Adapter-1-2-BSP-Female-Threaded.jpg_64...jpg
    -304-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Nut-Rod-Pipe-Fitting-Connector-Adapter-1-2-BSP-Female-Threaded.jpg_64...jpg
    12.9 KB · Views: 136
Top