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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: January 29th, 2017, 11:54 pm

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Location: Marengo, Ohio
Local time: August 17th, 2018, 2:38 pm
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My Bike Models: 1983 gl1100-alternator converted, c-5 ignition installed--Engine died in Grand Prarie BC

98 valkyrie

83 GL1100
My Bike Logs forum link: viewforum.php?f=123

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This is the second alternator that I have put on a GL1100.
I feel it is one of the best things I have done to the 1100.

Since I had installed one alternator I found some little things to make it a bit better.
This project has none of my ideas. I scoured the internet and used the best of what I found on different threads on the poor boy conversion. There are a lot of people who have given their ideas to make this conversion doable.


The first thing I did was to put all the new parts out.

The 4 inch steel pulley
Alternator 14684N. I had to cut the one leg off it.
8 Ft of #8 gauge wire.

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40 Amp self resetting fuse.
Alternator Plug.

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Plastic dip used to keep the H2o out of the self resetting fuse:
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4 inch steel pulley. I had a local machinist make this.

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That is all the New parts to start my conversion.

The first thing to do is take the seat, left crash bar, false tank, and radiator off the bike.

I made The lower alternator bracket out of some stock metal I had laying around.
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Lower brkt bolted by the engine bolt.

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This shows the radiator removed and how far I bent the horn mounts out of the way.


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The center of the bolt marked for the pulley.

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The hole saw used for the hole in the timing belt covers.
Make sure the gasket is removed before drilling.
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The hole for the pulley.
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8 Ga wire with 40 Amp self resetting fuse before I Plastic dip it.
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Routing of 8 ga wire from battery to alternator.

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Lower brkt for alternator with bolt welded in place. I did not care for the first brkt.
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Lower brkt. I took the heat shield off the bike. Using the vertical brace as a template for holes.
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Heat shield removed.

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Alternator with the third leg sawed off.
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The bolt welded on was too short. I made the third lower bracket
so it would cover some of the cutting of the heat shield. ( ANY of these brackets will work.)

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These are the lower fairing bracket. These have been cut and will be reversed
When installed.

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This is a plate to move the cover bolt over 1 inch so it will miss the pulley.
Tap the left hole so a bolt will fit.
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I used the cover bolt and cut it off.
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This plate is installed permanently to move the cover bolt over one inch.
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Bolt fits in cover.
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This is how it fits. I did not cover the old hole.
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Cutting of the heat shield is a hit and miss. Cut it so the alternator misses the shield. I cut too much and that is why my lower bracket was made bigger
to cover some of my over cutting.
Lower alternator bracket installed.
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Looking at the heat shield cutting and lower bracket in place.

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7/8 inch Hanger ring. Can be found at Lowe's or any big box DIY store.
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You can see the hanger installed on the right.

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Hanger in place.

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The spacer for the bottom of the alternator.
I used electrical conduit.

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The hanger is used for the belt tensioner.
I used thread all and nuts doubled to keep it from moving.
I did not try to make an arc as the alternator has very little room.
My previous alternator never needed altered after first install.

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View of belt tensioner.
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Not much clearance.
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Very little room.
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Pulley, Stock washer with hole enlarged, and 60mm bolt.
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Pulley installed. I used BLUE locktite on the bolt.
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Belt I used from NAPA
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Belt installed. Tighten the belt to snug.

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Clamp a straight edge on the pulley.
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Straight edge shows I am perfectly aligned from pulley to alt. If not aligned put some spacers
on the bottom of the alt.

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Radiator as it comes off the bike.
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Shroud cut off by rad filler tube. I cut too much off the right side.
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rad filler tube.
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Both legs welded and extended. Blades hacked.
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New position for fan.

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1 inch spacer for lower radiator.
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Rad in place using the spacer. Do not forget to put the lower fairing brkt on. This pic I forgot to put the bottom radiator on.
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1 inch chevy truck spacer and gaskets.
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Spacer installed.
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Lower hose attached.
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To put the top rad hose on. I took the alt back off. Put the hose on, AND
DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG THE FAN WIRE BACK TOGETHER.
Install the alt again.
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Rad installed.
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Unplug the regulator plug. This disconnects the stater. Leave in place
for a back up in case something goes wrong with the alt.
I used the black wire in this plug to connect my
exciter wire for the alt. This plug is keyed to the ignition key.
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Alternator and belt in place.
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8 Ga wire with fuse going to the battery.
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Time to do the wiring from the alternator.
The alternator connections.

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The "s" wire I can plug into the black wire of the regulator/rec. Correct? Yes
The "ig" wire needs to be switched. Where can I attach this wire? Run it to the fuse box.
"b" goes directly to the battery W/ a fuse.
"L" goes to the idiot light and I will not use.

Fill your radiator with the correct coolant.

Finished the alternator conversion.
No plastic had to be cut.

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Now one can add any number of lights, Heated clothing, Gloves with out reaching the max amps.

I am installing a second fuse box. I will be adding any new lights etc.. to this new fuse box.
I think it will be better than using the 30+year old wires to put this new current to use.

Hope you learned something here. If you add an alternator to your bike- let us know!!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 1:26 am

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Location: Brisbane Australia
Local time: August 18th, 2018, 4:38 am
Country:  Australia (au)
My Bike Models: 1981 GL1100 Vetter "Rats Nest"
1987 CBR1000f Naked "The Pig"
1991 CBR1000f "Red"
1998 GL1500c "Val"


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 5:25 am

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Location: Mantua, New Jersey
Local time: August 17th, 2018, 1:38 pm
Country:  United States (us)
My Bike Models: Restored '82 Standard GL1100 (with '83 engine) Hondaline bags.
'81 GL1100 - Gave up the ghost to give life to the '82!
1st bike '81 Suzuki GN400


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Nice work Wes!

In this pic, I can see you have both the original wire mesh rock guard and an aftermarket rock guard in front of your radiator. With the fan cut down and moved, you might end up with a higher operating temp. I would strongly suggest getting rid of the chrome rock guard and only using the original mesh rock guard for maximum air flow.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 6:20 am

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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
Local time: August 17th, 2018, 10:38 am
Country:  United States (us)
My Bike Models: 1983 Interstate with '84 1200 engine, Solex single carb, and C5 ignition.
2016 KLR 650
2018 Ducati V4S
My Bike Logs forum link: viewforum.php?f=122

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Nice job on the conversion and also the putting the post together with all the pics!

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PLEASE! Use your Gallery album for saving pictures instead of using attachments or picture sharing sites, especially technical reference pics. This will make sure your images will ALWAYS be in your post and the discussion thread will make sense!
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 9:06 am

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Location: chuluota florida
Local time: August 17th, 2018, 2:38 pm
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im floored wes ...great work and the reason classic is the place for solid info

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 9:48 am

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Location: Duncanville, Texas
Local time: August 17th, 2018, 1:38 pm
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My Bike Models: 1981 GL1100 Innerstate :>)
1996 GL1500 Innerstate
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:clapping: :good:

Most excellent write-up and pics!!! Very nice job!
:thanks: :thanks:

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I know the voices aren't real...but they have some really cool ideas
Joel AdamsImage
1981 GL1100 GoldWing Interstate
1996 GL1500 GoldWing Interstate

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: January 30th, 2017, 9:57 am

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My Bike Models: 1986 GL1200A "Goldie"
2016 HD FLTRU "BB"


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Good info Wes!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: January 31st, 2017, 12:58 pm

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Very nice :good:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: January 31st, 2017, 4:55 pm

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"no plastic had to be cut." Awesome.

~O~

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: February 1st, 2017, 4:46 am

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The complete write-up is featured in the GoldwingDocs.com February 2017 newsletter.
Great job, Wes!! :builder: :ok: :salute: :party:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: February 1st, 2017, 6:18 am

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:builder: Nice work Wes !!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: February 1st, 2017, 8:13 am

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Wes - great job and documentation of your project. Agree that this is a great mod for the older GWs. Agree with mcgovern61 about the rad guard. The aftermarket one restricts a lot of air flow, removed the one on mine after I did my alt conversion.

You are putting in a new accessory fuse block - great idea. May want to add a new ground bus as well. Using the frame for a ground conduit is not the best idea, but does work. Having too many wires on the battery terminals is not good as well. Boating industry recommends no more than four wires per terminal. I installed a new ground bus and accessory fuse block on my '85 LTD to reduce/eliminate problems.

Good work. Cheers

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