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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 12:54 pm

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Location: Elwood Indiana
Local time: October 16th, 2018, 12:27 pm
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Beginning the process of doing an alternator conversion. Bought the alternator and a few small pullies to play with. I don't want to wait until I loose my charging system to decide if this is how I will do it or not. I really don't see a whole lot of gl1000's with the alternator installed, or the step by steps on what was done. I will try to lay everything out with as much detail as I can think of. If there is something you want to see, a measurement or a bad attempt at something let me know I will attempt to document that as much as I can.

That said I have seen the price of the pullies that there are diagrams of here and really can not justify paying 200 to have one made for that kind of money I would just spend the day taking out the motor bits and installing a stock rectifier coil. I bought the alternator for 43.00 usd and the pulley I will use on the crank for 17.00 and the smaller pulley that will be on the alternator for 5.00 totaling 65.00 and will be putting in new coolant when I move the radiator and a few other expenses but I am sure will be under 100 in total. I will give the good and bad issues here and willing to take advice of experience to prevent me from wasting my time, does not mean I will always take the advice though, so don't be hurt if I go ahead and give it a good try.

(There are other pics in that folder in the photos but will only place the significant one in the thread, so to see more I think you can click on this--> gallery/album.php?album_id=10378 )

Alternator pulley 1.5"
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Alternator 35amp single wire
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Soon to be crank pulley 3"
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~Ἀφροδίτη (af-rə-DY-tee) aka FlipFlop


Last edited by FlipFlop on September 22nd, 2018, 4:19 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 1:07 pm

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You're going to replace the existing crank pulley rather than add an external pulley just for the alternator? It needs to be a timing pulley, if so.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 1:27 pm

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Lol nuuuuu, going to sandwich this to the timing crank pully and only use the outside pulley or might do some,surgery to it dont know just yet, will figure it out when I get my hands on it though. Also will be putting the bike up on my lift to work on this project. Not going to crawl around on the floor when I tear into it.

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~Ἀφροδίτη (af-rə-DY-tee) aka FlipFlop


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 3:01 pm

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well be watching with intrest

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 3:03 pm

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The only thing I can suggest is the drive to driven ratio on the pullies should be close to 2 to 1 for a positive charge/voltage output at 1,000-1,200 rpm idle. I didn't see if you listed the diameters of the pullies you're planning.
1.5-1.75 to 1 is okay. It all depends if you want a positive charge/voltage output at idle. I went with a 4" crank and 2" alternator pulley for this reason.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 3:18 pm

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following your alternator conversion thread

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 4:17 pm

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The drive pulley is 3 inches and the alternator is 1.5 inches so spot on there. Woot!

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~Ἀφροδίτη (af-rə-DY-tee) aka FlipFlop


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: September 22nd, 2018, 4:48 pm

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I did the conversion on my '84 1200 years ago. It won't be much different. In fact, there was a frame strut that had to go on the 1200. I don't think that'll be a problem on the 1000. I have tons of pics from that process if you happen to need to zero in on something. Also, there are lots of threads on the process...but I can't say I've ever seen anyone do it on the 1000. Probably because the stators are more durable.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: September 23rd, 2018, 3:26 am

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I like to buy ahead of time the parts and when I was looking at the years of fitmit it looked like they fit all the way up into the 1200's so I figure the weakness is still there and even less on Winger due to everything is LED except the brake lights. The only thing leading me this direction is the fact I mounted a hitch to Winger, and I am seeing variance in voltage due to the VR I would rather smooth out to a more steady in the 14 volt neighborhood. Since I removed the plug on the VR I don't get any spikes above 14.4 at highway but even all the LED's it still drops to 12.7 with the fan running in traffic. So just thinking ahead to get things sorted out.

I did buy another tank heat shield I think it is called, for 2.05 usd shipping was 10.00 usd, so if I don't like it it can go back whole and can have another fan easily enough too.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: September 23rd, 2018, 3:27 pm

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IMHO, GL1000,1100,1200 alternator's weakness is that they are permanent magnet field, and put out 100% (speed adjusted) all the time. The unused current is dumped to ground through the regulator. Automotive systems (including the Poboy) control the field coil current as needed by the regulator. The old systems used electro-mechanical regulators, newer using solid state. Only putting out what is needed is of course, much easier on the stator and regulator.

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