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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: March 16th, 2012, 7:15 am

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Joined: December 3rd, 2009, 8:59 am
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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 12:51 am
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My Bike Models: 1983 Interstate with '84 1200 engine, Solex single carb, and C5 ignition.
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2018 Ducati V4S
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We have at least 2 alternator installations going at about the same stage before the radiator installations.

I had lots of problems to sort out so I thought we could group all the ideas and mods done in one post here.

I will add mine with pictures shortly in a new post.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: March 16th, 2012, 7:56 am

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Location: Omer michigan 48749
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 4:51 am
Country:  United States (us)
My Bike Models: 1986 GL1200A
54,000 miles
Name Stella
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I will be looking at how much room is available this weekend.
I have been looking at these fans.http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=N ... on=product
I cannot find yet what the orignal fan pulls for cfm yet but still looking at a couple of 4.00 inch or a 7 inch here if I have room.
I can see needing one if stopped in traffic (but we almost never have traffic up here, last year my fan never turned on at all)
Temp gauge only got to four bars once.
Jerry

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: March 16th, 2012, 9:39 am

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Joined: December 3rd, 2009, 8:59 am
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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 12:51 am
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My Bike Models: 1983 Interstate with '84 1200 engine, Solex single carb, and C5 ignition.
2016 KLR 650
2018 Ducati V4S
My Bike Logs forum link: viewforum.php?f=122

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My YouTube Channel
For a quick look check out my very first writeup HERE.

Specifically relating to what I had to do to get enough radiator clearance to use the stock fan went through a few stages of build.

I first spaced the radiator forward just enough on the bottom to clear my modded 3" crank pulley then installed an electric pusher fan on the radiator front.
I did quite a bit of research considering the stock fan rotation speed, blade pitch and diameter to estimate the CFM.
I came up with approx. 400 CFM.

This fan is around 600 cfm.

Image

I later found out by surprise when I was stopping fast using the front brake, the front wheel dives to the point that the fender will hit the fan preventing the wheel from turning left or right. Not completely but I could definitely feel it. Not good.
The front fender now has marks in it.

Image

I went around and around on this trying to decide which way to go.
I knew the stock fan was quiet, this pusher made an irritating whine when turning as a "pusher" but much quieter as a "puller".
To be a puller it would have to mount behind the radiator.
I tried all kinds of positions.
I even have a smaller one which still wasn't going to fit behind the radiator because of the thermostat housing and other problems.
I checked out high capacity puller fans, way too expensive.
I even had a brilliant idea of mounting 4-5 20MM computer fans on a custom mounting plate which I never did. Still have the fans though.

After considering all this I decided there has got to be a way to keep the stock fan so I set off to make it work in it's stock mounting location.

Here's a couple pics of my radiator as it sits now:

Image

Image

In order to get enough clearance for my 4" pulley and keep the stock fan I first thought moving just the lower radiator forward would be enough but I ran into some problems doing that.
When pulling the radiator forward the radiator filler neck would bind on the frame.
Even if I pulled it forward enough with the top mounts in place and loosened as much as they'd loosen the alternator belt would hit the stock fan mount.
After considering modifying the fan mount and still uncertain if I'd have enough clearance I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone by moving the entire radiator forward.

I never actually thought to extend the filler neck tube like Image Ernie did, which is a very good idea btw.

I decided since the rad cap is such a pain to get to under the false tank I'd move it to the front.
Low and behold there's a recess in the radiator front exactly opposite the rearward neck location so I drilled that out to accept a 3/4" house plumbing copper pipe.

Image

House copper pipe is the same size as the filler neck tube btw.

Fitting the neck to the front was a pretty easy deal.
My solder job isn't pretty but after over 10k miles in the hottest weather it's holding fine with no leaks.

Image

Had to modify the angle for the lower radiator hose also.

Image

Time to get cleaver mounting the radiator.

I used conduit clamps after cutting off the original radiator threaded mounting studs from the frame.

Image

I think these clamps are for 1" emt, would have to verify that.
Can get them at the home centers real cheap.

Using 1/4" threaded rod it was just a matter of trial fitting and measuring the threaded rod needed for all 4 mounts, cut and lock down with nuts and washers.

Image

All that was left is fit the lower and upper hoses and relocate the horns.
I found a hose at Kragen auto parts with the right bends and long enough I cut for the upper and lower.

There ya have it.
That's how I did mine.

There are more various pics in my gallery.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: March 19th, 2012, 3:41 pm

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I used the same pusher fan and experienced the same fender hitting the fan because of the fork compression. I all but eliminated this by moving the fender closer to the the tire by about 3/4". Only under the hardest braking does the fender and fan touch. I might shim the fork springs a little but would like to stay away from this if I can.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: March 20th, 2012, 2:55 pm

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Location: Fenelon Falls, Ont, Canada
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 3:51 am
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My Bike Models: 1986 aspencade
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i spaced mine out about an inch and a quarter from frame , and i went to auto parts store and bought a section of bent hose for 19 bucks , only to use about 6 inches of it

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: March 20th, 2012, 3:01 pm

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1995 virago 535 ( money pit)


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dan i love how you solved the filler cap problem, must have been a bit of a pain to figure it all out :music:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: March 20th, 2012, 3:05 pm

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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
Local time: August 14th, 2018, 12:51 am
Country:  United States (us)
My Bike Models: 1983 Interstate with '84 1200 engine, Solex single carb, and C5 ignition.
2016 KLR 650
2018 Ducati V4S
My Bike Logs forum link: viewforum.php?f=122

Profile Personal album

My YouTube Channel
ddrichard wrote:
dan i love how you solved the filler cap problem, must have been a bit of a pain to figure it all out :music:


It was sort of fun at the time.
Sure makes it easy to add coolant after opening the system up or flushing.

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PLEASE! Use your Gallery album for saving pictures instead of using attachments or picture sharing sites, especially technical reference pics. This will make sure your images will ALWAYS be in your post and the discussion thread will make sense!
Go HERE and learn how to use the Gallery.


Image Image ImageClick to order CGW Stuff

If you know someone can embroider our 3" patch, let me know!
My photo gallery
How to use the Gallery, Part 1, Part 2

How to add your bike photo to the rotating banner and our Banner Rides Page.


Image


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: November 9th, 2013, 3:28 pm

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Local time: August 14th, 2018, 1:51 am
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My Bike Models: 1982 Goldwing Interstate
2000 BMW K1200LT


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What about cutting and extending the filler so you can get to it from the tank opening? I like the idea of moving the filler, but would like it to stay hidden.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: November 9th, 2013, 6:41 pm

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Here is how I connected mine after I moved my radiator forward. Found a spacer at Summit
Image
Image
Image

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OhioBill

I use to be lost but I got GPS, now I'm just confused


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: November 10th, 2013, 3:16 am

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nice work everyone ... its a little bigger than plug and play deal for sure ....

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: May 8th, 2014, 7:02 pm

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If you do the alt conversion does the alt fit behind the lower fairing on the gl1100 Interstate

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: May 9th, 2014, 4:52 am

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yes it does fit behind the lower fairing. I did not have to cut any plastic. I did have to cut the heat shield by the left knee.'
pics of location of alt and spacers for rad at bottom. Most people do not see the alt when lowers are in place.
Attachment:
alt 001.JPG

Attachment:
alt 002.JPG

Attachment:
alt 003.JPG
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