Alternator Conversion Pics by Bdubswing

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dan filipi

Well-known member
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
22,400
Reaction score
236
Location
Van Nuys Ca.
My Bike Models
1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
My Bike Logs forum link
https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
(Originally posted by Bdubswing.)

Here are a few pics of my alternator conversion on my '83 1100.
33mly5h.jpg


iy1tt5.jpg


2mrcw8w.jpg


25zo4k0.jpg


34hxthc.jpg


zwxfn4.jpg


64e7ft.jpg


28l5buq.jpg


2cqju3k.jpg


I used angle iron for the lower and upper brackets. The upper bracket has been trimmed on the end. You are viewing it as a prototype. The alt. adjusts easily and is very rigid. Still have to change timing belts and wire the alternator. I ordered the necessary wiring from a friend in California who sells top quality electricals for auto use. The wire has a super tuff insulation on it and I will use plastic conduit to further protect the 8 guage and 10 guage wiring I will be using. Will post more later.
Bernie

(In later postings)

Here are more pics of the conversion,

23jkb5g.jpg


2yx3hhu.jpg


23m4utz.jpg


be91d2.jpg


333ib2c.jpg


2vv7v3n.jpg


25gcmrs.jpg


oa8wv4.jpg


2r23slc.jpg


I have installed new timing belts, new t-stat and o-ring seal, and have new hoses to install. I made a bracket and mounted the left horn so that it sits in front of the alternator. I will do the same for the right one. As you can see, everything is coming along nicely.
I do have a problem. The fan hits the alt. belt. I have cut the lower left fan bracket off, trimmed the bottom of the fan shroud to lower the fan assembly closer to the radiator and the fan still hits. If I space the bottom of the radiator out, the fan motor hits the coolant neck on the t-stat housing and that pulls the fan blade back toward the alt. belt causing it to hit. I will try spacing the entire radiator out away from the frame to see if that will help. I could mount a pusher fan on the front of the radiator but would rather not if possible. So far, I am pleased with the progress and how it looks. Once I get the clearance issue resolved, I will wire the alternator.
Bernie

5jxt14.jpg


35jf72x.jpg


w1qpn8.jpg


2hxoe4x.jpg


95mn9c.jpg


Here are some updated pics of my alternator conversion. I replaced the Geo Metro alternator with a chevy mini 60 amp one wire alternator. It has more amps and is smaller and easier to hook up.
Bernie
 
Glad you had some of this stuff saved, Dan! I was wondering how much would be gone forever...Kewl deal! :clapping:
 
dan filipi":39ct8jff said:
Yes I'm glad too!
There's more, going thru it all and copying over bit by bit.

Sounds very time consuming :laptop: But im glad that everything wasnt lost... Seems like the forum has no problem getting goin again :salute:
 
Very interesting modification. I do have a question though. You went to a 60 amp alternator, I don’t think most motorcycle batteries can handle that kind of amperage. I do realize that the internal voltage regulator will keep it from overcharging I would be fearful of cooking the battery.

Only reason I question this is had a customer put a 135 truck alternator on he pickup and used a standard battery and kept cooking the battery.
 
After having mine running for around 2 years and 15k miles I find a 45 amp is plenty.
It does run close to max though when everything is on so if a 60 amp can be fit I think it's a better option for longevity.
Anything running close to max output will not last as long as one with some cushion.

As far as the battery goes I recommend a AGM. They are built more like a car battery and designed to take a higher rate of charge. M/C batteries are designed for around 2 amps charge, my system will pump in 10 and more.
 
hi great pics I have also done this conversion on my 82 gl1100 aspencade my question is with the wiring do you have to disconnect the stator and rectifier if so which wires do you cut or can you just cut the 3 wirer's from the stator your help with this will be most welcome
 

Attachments

  • IMG00040-20100124-1527.jpg
    IMG00040-20100124-1527.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 2,257
I think it's pretty cool. Just fill me in though. What is the need for the conversion? OEM Parts availibility, A bunch of extra lights, massive sound system, or my personal fav, "Just cause I can" :yes:
 
To answer that we do alot of local village parades and its all slow riding and a few light parades the last one i did we only rode 14 miles at slow speed and the batt was nearly flat so this conversion should do the job at this time its almost finished just the charging to check
 
You know, I read my manual (yes I really did), and it said that below 30 or 35 mph my alt wouldn't charge the bat. But mine charges at idle? Huh :headscratch:
 
Montecman":x5uh2h0f said:
You know, I read my manual (yes I really did), and it said that below 30 or 35 mph my alt wouldn't charge the bat. But mine charges at idle? Huh :headscratch:

The problem is when the fan comes on during alot of slow speed riding the battery will be discharging close to 5 amps then when the fan goes off the charge back into the battery is just a couple amps so over time the battery goes dead. That's the reason I put an external on mine because one summer day I had 4-5 around town errands to make. It just bearly had enough power left to crank after the last stop even though it had a fresh battery.

oneted, what alternator drive ratio do you have?
Mine in about 1.75 to 1 which gives me almost 14 volts at idle with the fan running.
 
Well I think its very cool and now I want one too! :beg: Please post as much info as far as parts used etc.
 
dan filipi":2l71yywi said:
After having mine running for around 2 years and 15k miles I find a 45 amp is plenty.
It does run close to max though when everything is on so if a 60 amp can be fit I think it's a better option for longevity.
Anything running close to max output will not last as long as one with some cushion.

As far as the battery goes I recommend a AGM. They are built more like a car battery and designed to take a higher rate of charge. M/C batteries are designed for around 2 amps charge, my system will pump in 10 and more.

Maybe I already know, but what is an AGM ? is it just another brand of battery ??
Winger 82 :cool!:
 
AGM means absorbed glass mat.
Basically the battery has a material in it which the acid (liquid) has absorbed into, sort of like a sponge absorbs water.
An AGM battery IS a lead acid battery. The difference is the "liquid" acid is not in a liquid state like a conventional battery.
 
Dan what is the battery life like with the AGM batteries. My experience with motorcycle batteries has not been good, about one year and they seem to go south very rapidly. Reason I ask I need to purchase a new battery for the 83 I just purchased. I also noticed that they are rated up to 350 amp.
 
The first one I had shorted out after less than 2 years.
It had a label on the side said "Extreme"
The new one is an Odyssey. I've had it only a few months so I cant say yet personally but I've read of others with over 5 years on them and still going strong.
 
Top