My SCC adventure

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cmyoch

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
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Location
Smithton
Okay, I've done a lot of research before recently becoming a member. I've posted the thread "Best SCC Thus Far" which I have had awesome responses to. I've had my '76 GL1000 for 6 years now and have been battling the '81 GL1100 carbs that came with it the entire time. The carb rack is currently redone and sitting on my bench but I'm almost disgusted with the thought of reinstalling them for the 14th time. I have the removal/replacement of the carb set almost down to a science. I bit the bullet, joined this forum, and moved forward with this mod.

I aquired a West German Solex for $10 from a local VW guy near where I work. It didn't take much to clean up and I bought a rebuild kit for $23 at my local Napa. In a matter of 2 days, It's clean and ready.

I bought a manifold off of Ebay from a seller named boilerboy. Research on the site showed he was selling lots of these and I've seen several build threads and pics with this style manifold installed.

The local Honda shop has new o-rings for my manifolds which I plan on picking up this weekend. Hopefully in a few days, I'll be doing a test run!

If I can figure out how to post pictures now, I'll get them imbedded in this post.
 
Now for pictures...

Carb when I acquired it. Probably on a shelf for 30 years

Carb Before2.jpg

Carb Before3.jpg

Carb Before.jpg


After a thorough cleaning and new rebuild kit

Carb After.jpg

Carb After2.jpg


My new manifold off of Ebay

Manifold.jpg
 
I set my fuel and air mixture screws at one and a half turns out. Is this a good starting point? And how should I adjust these once the bike is running? Turn both directions until the bike starts to stumble?
 
Carb is done and ready for install

GL Complete carb.jpg


Can anyone tell me what this looser arm with an adjuster screw above it is for? Pointed out by the screwdriver

Carb.jpg
 
That loose arm with adjuster screw is your fast idle for use with the choke. 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns is about the range to preset the mixture screw on various carbs. So it will probably run there. To set the mix screw simply adjust it in or out until you achieve the fastest idle. After you get it jetted to run best you can make a final adjustment of the mix screw to achieve the highest vacuum possible. Yes all the vac ports will need covered for use on a 1000.
 
Perfect, thanks! It's 100 degrees here in the midwest before the heat index. My garage is too damn hot to mess around in. I'll find time this weekend to get it installed and report back.
 
As hot as it gets there I doubt you'll ever need the choke let alone the fast idle. Once set it's probably fine though if it is used. Personal choice on that really. Some do use the choke some don't some have removed the choke entirely.
 
It was mentioned to attach the hot wire to the choke and fuel shut off valve to the ACC port of the fuse block. I have my shelter off at the moment. Is there an easy reference to find out which wire i tie into? I'm looking at a rat's nest of wiring on the bike.
 
Maybe I'm blind but I'm having a difficult time finding the yellow/brown wire. Can I tie into the black/brown wire to the key switch?
 
I'm not seeing the right wires here to me ...seems to me the black and brown wire is the wire after the ballistic resistor and carries a lower voltage than 12 volts....the early1000 bikes have the scewyest wiring of all the oldwings
 
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