Jetting ford escort carb on cb1000

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vpoirier79

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I,m sorry to post this, on a goldwing forum but I don't know where to get information, I used this forum to help me with this mod, not much info on this type of modification on a inline four, but the firing order and piston pairs up and down seem the same. Anyway I used the vw manifold and had to widen the mounts on the escort carb. This is a bobber build and is the 10speed model so there is lots of room.The spring is out of the power valve Anyway it runs at about 1300 and hunts up and down 50rpm and is visibly rich, revs very fast and is a bit rich in the rev. The jets are as follows primary, idle 60, tube x05 main 105, air 160
secondary idle 65 tube t02, main 100, air, nothing on it but larger than 160, I switched air jets and it went to black coming out the pipes, switched back and then switched main jets and got the idle down to 1300rpm. In my own mind a switch to a primary jet of 45 or 50 might help clean up the idle and put the 60 in the secondary. Also maybe a drop in the mains. Anyway I will post a few pictures this evening of the bike and mod. The cb1000c is a 1983 and has a longer stroke than piston diameter and air cooled. My questions are do you weber gurus agree with the jetting and does removing the power valve spring totally immobilize the valve
 
Breaking new ground with a Weber. Cool!

On my new 32/32 dft mounted to the VW manifold on a 1200 GW,
primary idle jet is 50
secondary idle 60
pri air 160
sec air 220
pri tube X05
sec tube T02
main jet 105
sec jet 95

The power valve is hooked up as the carb came new. If the power valve is in fact working, I haven't verified.

Idle...it will idle smooth at 1100 rpm once the engine is warmed up for a few minutes.
It is a bit rich at idle, though I have adjusted the idle mix screw on the lean side to the highest idle rpm.

The accelerator pump circuit seems to me to squirt a good amount more than needed which will make it rich on revs.

I hope this info helps!
 
Redline is 9500rpm so its probably low vacuum at 1300. and after the power valve spring was disconected it was better.so I guess the power valve was open at idle or closs to idle. I guess I need a smaller idle jet. I did notice a difference going from 105 to 100 on the main. I have a motorcraft 2100 off a 1963 221cid v8 from a fairlane 190cfm with .98 inch venturies with annular boosters in the venturies. I have the adapter so while I wait for weber jets will try that one, it has a power valve also.
 
I want to see a pic of this setup.sounds neat

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk
 
I discovered this last time refining the idle as the carb comes...a change in primary idle jet size has a profound affect on the primary air/fuel mixture thruout the primary throttle plate travel to make it richer or leaner. Fuel pump pressure as well, so much so, I wouldn’t bother trying to jet this carb without a fuel pump that produces close to what the carb was designed for. 9 lbs I think. I’m running a 5.5-9 lb electric pump.
 
Hmm yes fuel pump probably needs to be put on ....we will have to see picture of the carb ..as there operations all vary ...Weber’s vary big time from one model to another ...you have to keep in mind that these carbs are set up for low rpm car motors ...power valves are set just one way ...and most likely it’s not right for a high revving cb1000 motor ....in most cases car carbs are too rich at idle and too lean as rpm goes up ....I doubt the gravity is enough to feed the float bowl ..but that’s just a guess ...it might be fine ....idle is the most important thing to get right ...if you get it dialed in right ..be sure to hang on to bars good ....I’m sure a well dialed in straight carb will best the cv four carb set up big time ...my modded oldwing will bring the front tire off the ground ...be ready to work with it for awhile to get right ...it’s far from plug and play ....need to see pics to really help ...
 
Here are a few pics of the setup I used an electric fuel pump that is good tp 5.5lbs I ordered a 45 and 50 idle jet and a 90 and 95 main. I used the carb holders that attach the 4 carbs to head, now with the holders off the 1 and 2 are angled in to the center 30 degree with a slight upward tilt and 3 and 4 are angled opposite towards the center. The bike has a tripple backbone and to get rid of the elbows in the runners I can run the runners from the head threw the left and right of the center backbone into a 2 fitting into a one into the vw manifold. Another way to say it is to block off two vw manifold ports and go from a one into two for the 1 and 2 cylinder and the same in the other port for 3 and 4 The copper tube is 1.04 inside diameter. Anyway will put on the autolite 2100 with .98 venturies to try it out while waiting for the jets that are coming from the UK. I must thank all you guys because all my building ideas came from this site will keep you up to date when the jets come and maybe a video
 

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Taking the spring out of the power valve actuall makes it open all the time ...your carb is a licensed copy of the Weber dft carb 32-32 I’m thinking with 22-22. Chokes ...I’m guessing your jetting and adjustments go rather far from stock ...if you really get to know this carb ...it’s about the best out there in these days of epa slaughter to adjusting carbs of the old days before epa was infected on manufactures .....love to see this work out ...
 
Ok how do I disable it, I was watching andrews wennstorms video, about taking out the spring, maybe thats all my problems
 
Ok ...it’s probaly not your complete problem but I’m sure it’s part of it ...get yourself some stick epoxy ...take all the guts out ..diapham and all ...and cram the epoxy in the cavity ..either leve it like that or put cap back on ...
 
This will block that passage and make the carb more like a strait carb ....I would also suggest taking choke plates out completely ...so the carb can get maximum air flow ...if you have thtottle lock you need no choke anyways ...it’s already to rich as is ...I’m thinking ....look on the top of the base plate around the secondary barrel there should be a bury screw deal that’s been buggered by epa regulations and don’t move ...it can be moved if determin ...this adjust secondary plate closing ...if things are to rich at idle ...this plate can be open some and will effect idle while it’s running is best time to play with it ....it also has effect on secondary kick in ...when left like epa has them gas can build up on plate and cause momentary shut down as secondary kicks in ...in my experience...
 
Still at it with the second revision,I,m now using a two into one approach, pairing one and two and coming up threw the triple backbone, same with 3 and 4 on the right side much neater. I have to make two block offs for the other two outlets on the vw plenum, was using copper pipe with silver solder now its 1 inch fuel pump hose, very hard to work with, stiff with wire on the inside. I almost have it set up and am going to try the autolite 2100 with .98 inch venturies, 190 cfm very different carb, annular boosters and one jet for idle and secondary circuit, uses a holly power valve. W.ill also try the escort carb as I have the jets. Will get a few pictures up in the next few days
)
 
Here are some pictures of my slow progress, the hose I used is pretty close to what gas pumps use, To get it to bend I had to bring it in the house and soak it in hot water to get it to bend a bit.I have to get it moved forward about an inch so I have a lot of trimming and maneuvering so I have room for my seat. The stuff on the manifold is stick puddy to seal up the manifold 2 into 1, it will look prettier in the future. I have the ford 2100 manifold adapter on there now. But I will try the weber 32 also I,m going to try soldering copper pipe 3/8 onto the exhaust pipe and attach jumper cable wire to come to the bottom of the vw manifold. Hopefully this will transfer heat to the plenum
 

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