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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#16  Unread postPosted: December 7th, 2017, 2:08 pm

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Sorry, I'm from Canada...you have to read the second page first. :head bang:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#17  Unread postPosted: December 7th, 2017, 6:27 pm

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If I am reading correctly, if you have the solenoid, but it is not connected, the plunger is up sealing off the bowl from venting internally and is only venting to the tube that would connect to the charcoal canister. If there is no canister and the tube is open, then yes, you will smell gas after riding according to that manual because the gas is venting to atmosphere.

In the video, he removes the plunger altogether which now lets air come in from the charcoal tube vent plus the internal venting. I'm not a big carb guru, but I would expect that would play havoc trying to get the carb set?

I remember those canisters!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#18  Unread postPosted: December 7th, 2017, 7:53 pm

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Mine doesn't have that fitting for a hose to a charcoal canister. That port is blocked off with a steel ball plug :shock: . So really my bowl is not vented...that can't be good. :Awe: :head bang:
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#19  Unread postPosted: December 7th, 2017, 7:57 pm

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Just noticed that the carb in the video has that port blocked too.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#20  Unread postPosted: December 8th, 2017, 2:56 am

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Carb needs to be vented ....there are several reasons carb can be gassy smelling ...to high a float level and leak down to idle pull level happens right after bike is shut down ...venting the bowl helps stop this ...to be blunt the fuel shut off solenoid that everyone takes off this carb stops this ...if it’s from a early carb ...the newer shut off solenoid are just to crappy to seal anything off....I’ve been look to buy one as mine doesn’t have one ..but all I’ve seen are the crappy ones that don’t work ...my dft had the good one ...but I took it off thinking it was the thing to do ..on hooch I have the gas level low as possible in bowl and also redid the idle circuit to eliminate such huge flow to idle mix screw ...I’m sure it’s hard to follow this ....but this is probably the number one problem your having .

There is also an adjustment on the secondary throttle plate setting ....that is fixed in place by epa crap mandates ...I have found that if the plate in to close per epa ...the oldwing motor can still get gas pushed on top of this plate and cause problems idling after running awhile ....on my carb there is a screw in the base of carb that can be worked to work right and adjust plate open some to always stay clear of fuel ...epa has the threads buggard up to keep people from adjusting this ...how insane these idiots are and get payed for it ....this is a huge deal really ....if it wasn’t for the epa sabotage the dft is probably the best carb ever built in my opinion..

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#21  Unread postPosted: December 8th, 2017, 5:58 am

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Thanks Joe. I will check out if the secondary butterfly on mine can be adjusted open slightly...seems to me that it can.

As far as the vent blocking plunger goes...here is a thought...why not just unscrew the solenoid and take out the spring that pushes the plunger up. Then the plunger can just stay in there but without the spring it will be just sitting down. That way I don't have to take the top of the carb off. :yes:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#22  Unread postPosted: December 8th, 2017, 6:31 am

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OK so I just went out to the garage and unscrew the solenoid (5/8" wrench). There is no spring. The stem of the plunger is hanging down and you can push it up about 1/4" but, as it is, it will is hanging down...not blocking the vent. So maybe when they block the passage to the charcoal canister they also remove the spring so this whole vent switching deal is disabled.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#23  Unread postPosted: December 8th, 2017, 4:07 pm

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Yes the little things on this carb can be a mess of junk parts ..the first solenoid shut off deals were rubber like plug ...I guess when alcohol fuel came in ...they went with a metal deal that just didn’t stop flow period.......I’d say it’s best to tear the carb apart and get to know it ... :builder: :mrgreen:

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