DFT foat bowl venting

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

canuckxxxx

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
1,316
Reaction score
3
Location
Calgary, Canada
I came across this video about the venting of the float bowl on a Weber DFT carb from a Goldwing. The reason I am interested is because I have a Weber DFT 32/32 on my '82 and it really smells of gas parked in the garage right after a run. I was thinking that maybe the float level is too high. But now I'm wondering about that vent blocking plunger thing which is disabled on my carb.

Comments and suggestions are appreciated
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuhctI_-GMc

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuhctI_-GMc[/video]
 
It’s been awhile but if I remember, that valve is designed to vent the bowl to a charcoal canister when the engine is off. Just for information, Langdon must not see it as needed because the carb I got from him already had that wire cut too short to connect to.
 
Thanks for the responses.

So is it necessary to take the top off the carb and remove that plunger? Sounds like maybe not.

I still suspect too high gas level in bowl leading to gas smell after running. How hard is it to take the top off to check/ adjust float? Can I do it without removing carb from bike?

Is there any literature about working on the DFT?
 
Hmmm ...on hooch it rather difficult to take carb top off ...carb on bike .....I have mine set up to where the whole carb comes off easy ...four bolts ..gas line at pump...unhook cable ....5 to 10 minutes and out it comes
 
Thanks Joe and Dan. Just had the bike running out in the driveway with air cleaner off to see if I can see anything looking down the throttle throat. The top of the butterfly is wet but that is probably normal. Otherwise nothing looks unusual.

The bike is running very well; crisp throttle response, smooth idle. I don't think I'm jump into messing with this carb for now. I have it back in the garage on the centre stand and I will see if it smells like gas. I think I had it on the side stand when it smelled like gas. Also I could shut petcock off after a ride just before shutting it down.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198350#p198350:21xc4wv0 said:
canuckxxxx » Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:04 pm[/url]":21xc4wv0]
BTW, I came across something that said the DFT 32/32 came as OE on the 1981 Ford Escort. If you go to Rock Auto, they have complete overhaul kits for about $10.
That is great information! :thanks:
 
This is the carb they show for an '81 Escort on the RA site. It sure looked is like my carb.

I see to that they sell the bowl vent solenoid. So maybe if I had a solenoid that work so that the bowl fumes are sucked into the engine instead of to the outside air them I wouldn't get the gas smell. :headscratch: just think'n
 
I would agree if I knew what triggered the valve to open and close? Does it only close after power is off and open when power is applied (key switch) or is there something else that keeps an eye on it and opens and closes it?
 
If I am reading correctly, if you have the solenoid, but it is not connected, the plunger is up sealing off the bowl from venting internally and is only venting to the tube that would connect to the charcoal canister. If there is no canister and the tube is open, then yes, you will smell gas after riding according to that manual because the gas is venting to atmosphere.

In the video, he removes the plunger altogether which now lets air come in from the charcoal tube vent plus the internal venting. I'm not a big carb guru, but I would expect that would play havoc trying to get the carb set?

I remember those canisters!
 
Carb needs to be vented ....there are several reasons carb can be gassy smelling ...to high a float level and leak down to idle pull level happens right after bike is shut down ...venting the bowl helps stop this ...to be blunt the fuel shut off solenoid that everyone takes off this carb stops this ...if it’s from a early carb ...the newer shut off solenoid are just to crappy to seal anything off....I’ve been look to buy one as mine doesn’t have one ..but all I’ve seen are the crappy ones that don’t work ...my dft had the good one ...but I took it off thinking it was the thing to do ..on hooch I have the gas level low as possible in bowl and also redid the idle circuit to eliminate such huge flow to idle mix screw ...I’m sure it’s hard to follow this ....but this is probably the number one problem your having .

There is also an adjustment on the secondary throttle plate setting ....that is fixed in place by epa crap mandates ...I have found that if the plate in to close per epa ...the oldwing motor can still get gas pushed on top of this plate and cause problems idling after running awhile ....on my carb there is a screw in the base of carb that can be worked to work right and adjust plate open some to always stay clear of fuel ...epa has the threads buggard up to keep people from adjusting this ...how insane these idiots are and get payed for it ....this is a huge deal really ....if it wasn’t for the epa sabotage the dft is probably the best carb ever built in my opinion..
 
Top