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NCScooter

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Have not been on here in quite some time but knew this would probably be my next experiment. I bought an x-shaped manifold and 34 pict 3 carb off fleabay. I don't know a whole lot about carbs.
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Does the choke action increase with current or vice versa - can I run the choke with a rheostat? Does the fuel shut off valve need current to keep it open? Will my 77 GL1000 standard (NOS) fuel pump work with this? What jetting do the GooRoos recommend? I have a 1 year old C5 ignition set-up.
I have a wiff of gas (petrol) when I stop. I've had a couple sets of carbs on the bike, currently I'm running a good set of '77 carbs which I rebuilt myself using Randakk's kit and video. Runs well enough, is the smell of gas unavoidable?

What do y'all think, hello again and thanks.
 

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The electric choke is a resitor that gets hot basically. Remove it and make it a manual from my experience. Not sure what you mean about the fuel shut off but my 77 and yours is mechanical. There is an air valve that is electric and needs to be wired to same circuit as the coils, or as I did electric removed and fix it to the open position. Jetting is all over the place. Mine was 60/140. Stock fuel pump works dandy. Look forward to pics.
 
If it does have fuel shut off and it’s decent in working ...I’d keep it ..it can prevent gas leaking into motor when key is off ...many are garbage units though ...smelling gas in stock set up can be several things ...but if your going single ...idle is the most important thing to get right...seems all bikes are different ...with the 1000 having the least pull on the carb ..I’m guessing It could handle bigger idle jet than let’s say a 1200 with bigger bore and stroke in the motor ...I’ve never really worked much with the one barrel set up much ...so this is all guessing ...in general it seems idle seems hard to get lean enough to be right and at higher rpm it’s hard to rich enough ...the oldwing motor starts small and gets much bigger than car set ups using rpm to demand more on car carb....good luck
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=206009#p206009:wmppxnsm said:
joedrum » Today, 6:52 am[/url]":wmppxnsm]
If it does have fuel shut off and it’s decent in working ...I’d keep it ..it can prevent gas leaking into motor when key is off ...many are garbage units though ...smelling gas in stock set up can be several things ...but if your going single ...idle is the most important thing to get right...seems all bikes are different ...with the 1000 having the least pull on the carb ..I’m guessing It could handle bigger idle jet than let’s say a 1200 with bigger bore and stroke in the motor ...I’ve never really worked much with the one barrel set up much ...so this is all guessing ...in general it seems idle seems hard to get lean enough to be right and at higher rpm it’s hard to rich enough ...the oldwing motor starts small and gets much bigger than car set ups using rpm to demand more on car carb....good luck

+1 all Truth
 
Thanks so far gentlemen. Do y'all have experience w/ that x shaped manifold? I'm hoping Dan Filipi (sp?) will weigh in. May work on it this weekend, depending on our Florence recovery (great bit of gratitude to the fact that all I have is yard waste to pick up!!!!)
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=206025#p206025:lhwspkxo said:
FlipFlop » Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:06 pm[/url]":lhwspkxo]
Humn...Gentlemen eh? I think not. But I did have the x type bought off eBay it worked. I liked the way it distributed fuel evenly to all cylinders.

Oh, woman, I am so sorry. Oh goodness. Thanks for y'all's advice should have been my response. Can't go back and change the past. I'd have bought a Goldwing earlier, too.
 
Lol, no worries just being snippy for the fun of it, your all good.

Are you looking at the EBay guy Viba or something like that? If so that version is put together pretty rough. Has a lot of edges on the inside. Outside is decent but the inside you will need to finish it up to make it cleaner and flow 100%
 
Having seen a wide variety of intakes on the builds. The design doesn't seem to matter a great deal as long as they seal and the carburetor is adjusted to work right. The one you have has virtually no plenum for the fuel charge to "gather"in. A short riser has helped some with this design intake.
 
My first 34 Pict 3 carb, the electric choke was crap so I went with a manual until it too broke... internal - the little lever that is inside the housing. I eventually just used a couple extra twists of the throttle as the choke and locked the throttle at a high idle until the engine warmed up. My new 34 Pict 3 has a working electric choke that works great - it's staying that way.

The electric fuel shutoff opens with current...

Jetting, as FlipFlop has mentioned seems to be all over the place and that depends on the motor and the environment that it is operated in. I will add though, once you get it adjusted, I think you will like the setup of this carb and the C5 ignition.
 
I set up the same kit. After a lot of tweaking, pretty darned happy with the running. I'm now doing mileage tests. Got an idle of approx 1050rpm when at full temperature. Takes as little nursing from cold, but will idle reasonable after a minute or two.

My tips for you...
Do not wire in the electric choke. Replace the screws that lock the choke in with little bolts before installing the carb. I adjusted the choke position to close some while idling, and would flap wide open when the throttle opens.

I found the manifold was getting quite cold, pretty sure I could rest a canned drink on the manifold runners and get a chilled drink later! I added 4 motorcycle grip heaters to the manifold, then insulated the manifold {including the coolant cross-over tube} wit a 1/4in rubber foam/aluminum insulation, the over taped it with plain aluminum foil tape. I also added a 12vdc electronic thermostat with a 20 amp relay to control the grip heaters. It has an actual temperature reading and the switch target reading. I hung the thermocouple in the air space in the insulated shroud. I found that I could turn off the grip heaters when the internal temps hit 95 degrees. The coolant tube can heat the shroud to over 155 degrees! Put the thermostat in my tool tray, along with my cigarette power port and USB charger, all running off the accessory block.

Make sure your valves are adjusted, make sure your ignition is spot on. I ended up going to a Dyna S ignition, and found that some of the problems I was chasing went away

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Be sure to include the coolant cross-over tube. This was my first shot, changed it up to get the free heat.

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ncm_0924.jpg
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=210128#p210128:3k135tat said:
ob1quixote » Wed Jun 12, 2019 8:07 am[/url]":3k135tat]
It is the emblem from a Honda S-600 sportscar, made in the '60's
Beautiful job and bike. :good:
 
Didnt like a low rpm stumble that came with the 45 idle jet, didnt bother checking mileage.
Installed a 50 idle jet today, stumbles at low rpm slightly when cold, but smooths out after it warms up.

Mileage test this weekend, when I take off for a mini trip, Charleston SC - Cherokee NC - Blowing Rock NC - Charleston SC.

Little bit of Blue Ridge Parkway with some friends who are going the distance of the BRP and Skyline Parkway over the course of a week.
 
I’d do two things ...I’d take the plugs out ..clean them up ..put back in ..and go for ride for about 20 or thirty minutes ...staying closely at the rpm stumble area best you can ...try to stay out of the rpm where it seems to do best ....2 when get back from ride ...turn off gas while bike is still running ...and see how the motor responds just before it runs out of gas ...if it’s to rich at idle most likely rpm will rise ...

I don’t know this for sure but on one barrel carbs ..the throttle plate is huge ... and introduces huge amount of air when it is barely open ...causing stumbling even with the idle jet is basically right ...

It’s my guess the 45 jet is probably closer to right for idle and very hard for me to think that a 50 jet is right ...I’d say and this is opinion only as I havnt worked that much with one barrel set ups ...that this problem is the number one problem these set ups are most times deliver less mpg

After the ride and motor cools off take plugs out and check there color ...I’m thinking it will be rich and black looking....I may be totally wrong as said this is mostly opinion
 
About 1000 miles total Friday-Sunday
Trip up to Cherokee NC running about 75mph, about 31.5 mpg, until I got off the slab where it jumped to 35 mpg.
Back onto some hilly slab, dropped back to 30.5 mpg.

The trip on the BRP was at a leisurely pace, getting between 34.6 and 36.3 mpg.

The trip to Charleston SC from Blowing Rock NC, I dialed the speed back a bit. I had had to adjst the carb for altitude, and was adjusting it back on the way down. Speeds around 65 mph, got about 35 mpg.

Thinking I have a lean situation when on the main jet, difficulty hold a speed and blued mufflers.
Replace the 127.5 main jet with a 130, see how that goes.
Initial ride says gitty-up-go mode likes the 130!
 
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