joedrums single carb setup with the weber 32 DFT

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joedrum

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
19,547
Reaction score
93
Location
chuluota florida
well talked with dan decided to go for ride on hooch before things get bad around here ....wasn't expecting much kind of cold but not real bad ... about 50degrees and getting worst as day goes by .....

all I can say is hooch mever missed a lick the whole time on the ride ...never had one idle problem ...no doubt the epa power valve deal was causing all that problem I was having with wondering idle ....

hooch cruised with perfect running never missing a lick at all ....

I just don't have any discounts at all to say ....

so dan wanted me to list how it is set up right now ....

the carb itself is striped of everything that's added on just strait carb

on type 4 manifold ....

the type 4 plenum outlets are sleeved with black pvc 1"ID and about 2"long

they are tapered from each end to the middle ..to give double funnel look inside and no edges for charge to hit

these sleeves stick out about 1"past manifold outlets ...from there 1 1/4 ID hose is used to stock intake runners ....this hose is very heavy duty and fits perfect in intake horns ....

this is pretty much the way I set it up from the get go ...ive changed it a few times only to change it back ...

im getting pretty confident that this is the way my wings will be set up ... I can just feel the reliability factor here .....

what a super mod this is for me ....its nice to get to great outcomes ...im not saying I don't need heat but I am going to hold off a bit on it ... just to learn what happens :mrgreen:
 
image.php

her you can see the rubber hose ... its ratered at 200lbs pressure is quite reinforced with some heavy wire ... that strong enough to hold its shape even in out of round positions ... ive virturally had no air leaking ...im thinking the stiff structure of the hose is biggest asset here why this is so .....
image.php

this pic shows the hose hook up better ..back at the plenum the hoses are connected to the chokes or sleeves that press fitted and sealed in manifold and stick out enough to clamp hose to ....on the intake horn side the hose fits right in stock rubber ..and I used the original clamps out of the groove there suppose to be in and on the high spot closest to end of rubber ... that's pretty much it on install

the 1"chokes at plenum are there as this will size the runner to speed the air up close to carb for great atomization .. then opens up to 1 1/4" hose the rest of the way to piston ....seems to work great I have no huge theory here other than the choke are where they count the nost to carb and it works
 
now were down to the carb ......the weber carb is highly sensitive to adjustment ..... SO I WANT TO BE CLEAR HERE ... THESE CARBS ARE NOT GOOD OUT OF THE BOX AS IS .... they might work but there not close to right at all .....
image.php

pic of the weber carb with top off ...the first barrel top of pic is is the primary ..the arm like thing reaching into it is accelerator pump outlet to the air flow to motor ...below barrel is the air jets and idle jets showing .,,, below the air jets is the well tubes and below that is gas jets

image.php

pic of accelerator pump working ...this all stays on my set up
image.php

pic of the power valve removed ... this is a epa BS device to please idiots for the right to make something ....it has absolutely no value what so ever to a oldwing and causes huge running problems
image.php

pic of top and and float kinda heavy duty looking for sure
 
image.php

okay now for the jets and how they work in the weber carb ....the two outside jets are idle jets ..one is primary idle and one for secondary idle .... the primary idle jet on these webers does more that just idle, there are about 5-7 holes in the idle circuit in the primary barrel ...some below the throttle plate some above ...I'mm guessing idle jets cover first 1/3 throttle as main primary jet starts kicking in ....so getting the idle jet and mixture screw set up good covers a lot of mpg territory ... there's no adjustment on air here, jet is really important ...on the secondary idle jet there are no outlets below throttle plate and no air control so its function is for smooth transistion and part throttle plate opening running ..so lots of mpg here also in hiway cruising i'd say ....

then theres the main jets ...there three parts..... air jet ... atomizing tube ... and gas jet ... three different adjustments to get the best atomization ...

more air= less gas- jet is going leanways and less air and more gas- is going rich ways...

the tubes are sized differently and number of holes and all to have different atomizing qualities at different air speeds as rpm changes.

On the weber, really only bottom throttle plates that move much and can leak, everything else is air and fuel flow .... once dialed in.
Weber's are highly tuneable. I don't see much comparison between stock and Weber. Weber is slam dunk winner for me .. hope this gives understanding on carb better :mrgreen:
 
on the carbs still .... the weber has adjustment in four different and crucial changes in the carburation zone ... the idle jet on primary kicks in at idle to about 1/3 throttle maybr less just guess here ...from there the primary main is coming in and it adjustment is air jet.... atomizing tube and gas jet tower ...from there its the secondary idle jet for transistion boost to secondary adjustment ...and from there all out secondary punch adjustment ..with the secondary main air jet ... atomizing tube and gas jet tower ....this engineering is totally sound ...full of adjustment and completely user friendly ...as we need :clapping:

so there is nothing floating around or outside influence on carb working all self contained ... like the c5 ignition its totally non dependent on anything but air flow from motor .....thes two deals together stop all oldwing bad running habits ... no spit ..no knock no backfire or labor pains of take off ...

so im going to try and make this forum the center of relief in the oldwing world not just me im talking forum ...good sence tells me its the best for our oldwing to have solid solution and not misleading dribble :hi:

it is simply out of my realm of common sense to make any justification on the stock mother Honda set up on carburation or ignition any more ... throwing the parts down side by side and going over pluses and minuses ....there not even a laughable comparison that can be made ...the mother Honda user unfriendly carbs and ignition are total incompetent engineering at the highest level inadequacy...non adjustable junk

I mean .. had the stock rack had rider control slides and proper adjustments built in it would have been something ....but all the built in self cancelling engineering and user unfriendliness it just leaned out junk with all kinds of epa crap that don't work together well for anykind of decent carburation to rely on or ignition either :cheeky:
 
Yes, the Weber put's mixture in control, where the stocks are virtually impossible to change jetting on.
Sure you could shim the slider needle some, that is very limited, and there are still the idle and main jet limitations.
Even if we could change these jets (of which there are NO choices available), what a job that would be pulling the rack for each trial.

Then we have the slider springs.
Springs fatigue and change value over time no matter what the length is.
This changes everything as far as fuel mix goes.

Then there's vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts.
Ok so the deal as I see it here is.......you can have a vacuum leak(s) here and still have an engine run and perform good.
But, if your trying to resolve running issues with those vacuum leaks, you cannot on the stock rack because they can't be re jetted.
The idea that jet's do not wear is hogwash. What do you suppose any fine rust or sand particles that get past the filter and into the bowl are doing?
Not much wear maybe but one step on a jet size is barely anything in difference and that can make a huge difference in how an engine runs.

The Weber and VW plenum combo are a very nice step forward in reliability, simplicity, and keeping these bikes on the road.
Not perfect, but a damn sight better than the stock carbs.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=102895#p102895:zrsvzlzt said:
joedrum » Tue Nov 12, 2013 9:36 am[/url]":zrsvzlzt]
now were down to the carb ......the weber carb is highly sensitive to adjustment ..... SO I WANT TO BE CLEAR HERE ... THESE CARBS ARE NOT GOOD OUT OF THE BOX AS IS .... they might work but there not close to right at all .....
image.php

pic of the weber carb with top off ...the first barrel top of pic is is the primary ..the arm like thing reaching into it is accelerator pump outlet to the air flow to motor ...below barrel is the air jets and idle jets showing .,,, below the air jets is the well tubes and below that is gas jets

image.php

pic of accelerator pump working ...this all stays on my set up
image.php

pic of the power valve removed ... this is a epa BS device to please idiots for the right to make something ....it has absolutely no value what so ever to a oldwing and causes huge running problems
image.php

pic of top and and float kinda heavy duty looking for sure

Joe, to remove the power valve it looks like you just removed the diaphragm...is that right? As I understand it, that would mean that there would be no fuel enrichment under high load, when vacuum is low...did you have to go bigger on the main jets then?

Also, there is a thing on the end of the diaphragm that pushes on a check valve to open it to let more fuel in when there is low vacuum. If you just remove the diaphragm then it must just be the check valve against it's seat that is keep fuel from spilling out...is that right?

Brian
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105839#p105839:2kq4a10e said:
dan filipi » Sun Dec 22, 2013 12:29 pm[/url]":2kq4a10e]
Yes and yes, Brian.

I epoxied over the check ball and 2 other holes under that cover. Also epoxied the vacuum port at base of carb.

If I went out and removed the power valve diaphragm, with the carb on the bike and full of fuel, it would probably leak fuel all over the place right?

If I just remove the diaphragm spring would that should disable the power valve?

Brian
 
no it shouldn't but could ....I took mine off while it was on the bike ...kneaded up some epoxy and put the cap back on basically ... with the diaphragm pin deal out ...hmm I am almost sure that's what I did anyway
 
no I don't ...I have no problems down low ... and really never did ... so im not quire sure what going on with more stock bikes than mine .... after I thought about the power valve and its advantages ...it was clear to me that there was no way to control or adjusts this device ... my guess is ...you will see it will adjust easier rev better with out even changing a thing in jetting ...truth is even with the diapham out with its pin too there is still vacune working on this and also a place for the gas to go once it gets by the seat valve to the carb .....so when I was finally done with this device ...I kneaded some epoxy together ... and without diaphAM and pin deal smashed in epoxy and put cover back on trim off the excess and neve went back ... it don't leak and the bike instantly was more easy to dial in and control ... that was my experience ... I must say I had another carb that I tried and it was factory blocked so I knew it was done on purpose on some applications and when I was done the carb I blocked started doing as good as the one block by the factory .....I am probably going back to the factory block carb in my case as it a 1200 and seems to act like it wants more ... this is no discount the smaller carb ive got on there now is doing great ... don't read anything into that it is just how joedrum goes about trying everything

let me add one thing ive discovered there is a racing or oval track version of this carb being made for Europe racing circuit and it is power valve blocked version I call this conformation on keeping it simple and highly adjustable
 
This is probably posted somewhere, but which carb chokes did this one use, Joe? Was this the 24/26? 26/27? 22/29?? I would like to start piecing one together this spring. Lots of possibilities available. Tom's carb is probably the best bang for the buck, but being mine is hybrid, I'm thinking a little bigger might be better. Another question I have about these-- if anyone can answer--- is whether the top part of the 32DFT is the same as the common 32/36 Weber. I am wondering about air intakes.
 
there close but not the same on tops ...... it think tom sales a top for these carbs that is perfect...yes you like me ... our motors are not even close to acting like stock motors at all ... this is due to the extreme even more than we figured change in attitude mod ....the carb I started out with seems to be the one ... I went to the smaller on as a test ...it still on my bike ... I had to go through the power valve thing and block and have learned a lot since I had the bigger carb on ... the one thing I do know now is ive got the smaller carb dial rather good noe with what I got to work with ...this is mot saying it perfect ...im sure if ihad nore jets tubes and air bleeds to play with it would sure be better ...but with what I di know now is that I know now how far off I was on the secondary of the bigger carb and im confident I can get it dialed in and the 1200 mod motor of mine and yours can use it ...heres a link link to the 32-34...24-25 fixed air choke carb I think is ultimate for you and me possibly others too just way to early to be spouting experience of outcome

https://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/inde ... ductId=197
 
There are so many variations of this carb that it makes me wonder if it hasn't led to all the failed applications. I am sure people were sharing info back and forth and probably not realizing that they had different carbs altogether in the form of chokes/venturis and jets. Progressive versus both, many, many many variations.
 
ok let me think im challenge here a bit ... my figures are different than dans and im not saying there perfect there not ... and its all I have to work with now ...primary is idle 45...main jet 105... airbleed is 160.... secondary is idle jet 65...main jet 105 ... airbleed is 165 ... tube are marked with numbers that make no sense to me as of now .... going with danns figures is probably the best for you brian ... as testing here with me as it is for you the cold has put a damper on things ...sheesh its been cold ... and dans is the bike that is doing all the testing at this time ... but those are my figures in jets as of date ....
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=106169#p106169:2shpksi2 said:
ekvh » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:21 am[/url]":2shpksi2]
This is probably posted somewhere, but which carb chokes did this one use, Joe? Was this the 24/26? 26/27? 22/29?? I would like to start piecing one together this spring. Lots of possibilities available. Tom's carb is probably the best bang for the buck, but being mine is hybrid, I'm thinking a little bigger might be better. Another question I have about these-- if anyone can answer--- is whether the top part of the 32DFT is the same as the common 32/36 Weber. I am wondering about air intakes.

pretty sure we are talking weber 32 DFT 32/32 mm throttle bores & 22/22 venturis here, the top is not the same as any holley/weber 32/36, of which there are 2 main variants for weber, dfv and dgv,

the holley 5200 series is based on the 32/36 weber dfv line, of which the 5200 itself has the most similar top

iow, what filter system bolts up to a 32/36 dfv variant weber should also bolt up to a 5200 holley, 5210 and 5220 variants need some modding

https://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... Carburetor

The DGV Series carbs feature models with manual, water or electric choke actuation. The DGV also has a power valve circuit to facilitate low vacuum (full throttle) conditions.

DGxV series name was generated from the Italian:

Doppio - twin
G - Right-hand oriented
V - Verticalle (verticle) or V (power valve-equipped)

x can be either: 1) none - manual choke 2) E - electric choke or 3) A - Aqua (water) choke

There is also a corresponding DFV-series, which are nearly identical except they are a mirror-image of the DGV (for left-hand orientation). In the DFV, the primary and secondary barrel position reversed in the body. The throttle lever in the DFV rotates in a clockwise motion while the DGV rotates anti-clockwise. The other difference is in the air cleaner flange.

11510.gif 11511.jpg
Right-hand (DGV) vs. Left-hand (DFV)


here's the top of a 32dft
 

Attachments

  • 32 dft.jpg
    32 dft.jpg
    5.9 KB · Views: 251
Top