Weber considerations

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ekvh

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I follow along most single carb posts and hope to attempt one this summer. It seems that one big difference between Joe's mods and most of the others, including those using the 32/36, is that he blocked the feed for the power valve. Is that correct, the jet in the bottom is plugged and the valve removed? If everyone else who has been trying this is running into rich conditions, it seems he has effectively eliminated this from the equation and can rely on jetting alone to tweak. The power valve is probably a good idea, but too much for the smaller gl motors. The other part to the power valve is that it is vacuum operated. Where does it begin to operate on a gl? I read that Weber sells spacers to place on the spring to change the point at which the valve opens.mwashers could probably be added. My guess is that it is opening too quickly due to the sudden low vacuum situation when cracking the throttle. When it opens it basically is an extra jet, right?? Guys who have tried this with a 32/36 complain of having to "feather" the throttle up to speed. And some who have tried it with the dft. I wonder if this won't work for them?

Curious how many others have gotten rid of the power valve and what their feeling is on driveability. Another option might be reducing the size of the jet under the power valve.
 
gee eric thats spot on joedrum decoding internet speech at the highest level...yes it is like a jet ... yes i agree oldwing to small no need ...power valve is there to booste a lean condition on low rpm car motors ....that completely the opposite on oldwing ....

eric your the one guy who directly might benefit from my work as yours is so close to mine .... i will restate that i am amazed still at how much different my motor and your motor is from stock oldwing.....the jyd build with the 32-32 carb is somewhat following close to hooch ...motors the same but carb is bit smaller....

the whole idle circuit is to big ..but in reality its not nothing more than some of the randakks tricks on stock racks to right them for today conditions..... :popcorn: good start to a thread :mrgreen:
 
Do you recall how you filled the hole? I might experiment with partially plugging the jet. It appears to have a tip like a float valve. Under that are four holes. I thought of soldering them shut, 1 or 2 or 3 to see what happens. Looks like it's open with no vacuum or low vacuum. As vacuum increases it pulls off the tip closing the jet? I'm just going by pictures. Can't find a good explanation of it online. There must be spring in the jet itself??? I will get a chance to look more tonight at mine.
 
story on the power valve ...my first carb i tried and is the one i have now on hooch was factory blocked power valve.....so be it on its own this was not enough to cure the rich problem ...the second carb i tried was a 32-32 like tom carb ....and this is when i got a dose of what the power valve dose ...

i guess your talking power valve on 32-36 i am looking at this carb as im posting ... gee eric seems power valve factory blocked on this 32-36 carb....the idle circuit block i made on dft carb has 5 holes not 4 ...3 in center and 2 on outside ...i blocked the 2 outside ones ..it was easy ...i drilled out where the outside feed were slowly work tooth pick tight in hole carlfully till they bottom out the carb gasket stops any other leakage it was simple and good ...it was a gamble ..i would be a pain if i had to clear it ..but didnt ..was best idle gas mod of all i did

if i was to start all over again with what i know now...id start here first ...with the idle circuit block things would fall into place much easier to see.....this reminds me to finish the dft thread with pics of that mod
 
Found a good explanation of how to test the power valve and a little on what it's supposed to do, and some fairly good pics, here: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/ca ... build.html

In the fine print he mentions that some of the valves had rubber parts in the valve which deteriorate over time, while others were all brass and steel and hold up well. I believe one of Dan's first was a remanufactured that leaked on him. If it fails it's going to allow fuel to be drawn in even at idle and muck up tuning all the way.
 
good stuff i see the power valve is completely different on the 32-32 dft carb ...dft power vave is nuch cheaper deal and only for primary barrel ... but in my view ..i just really didnt want a vacumm dependent carb of any kind ... it is a instant flood device ..20% extra is a bunch... i do feel if one can defeat the power valve completely on 32-36 carb it will work on your bike ...as then you could have complete controled as you have stated
 
I am still not finding any info on how it is dispensed into the carb from the power valve/jet, except that increases up to 20% and I think I read that it also only affects the primary. I am quite sure I mis-spoke on where it comes in, they are for the accelerator pump. To use it effectively, you would need to mess with the spring on the actuator and maybe the jet itself.
 
Found it right here in the gallery. The power valve just opens to feed the same emulsion tube as the main jet, so the power valve is kind of like a two barrel, except it's a jet. For the wide range of engines these were created for, and the gl1200 being the smallest of them, my guess is it adds too much. Might be fun to see if you could reduce the amount it can add, but if running them without any is good, then they're not needed. The option is always there.
 
You went up quite a bit on air correctors right? My 32/36 has 140 both mains with 170 primary air and 160 secondary air. I couldn't read the idle jets.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141401#p141401:16xhl64h said:
ekvh » Today, 1:21 pm[/url]":16xhl64h]
Found a good explanation of how to test the power valve and a little on what it's supposed to do, and some fairly good pics, here: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/ca ... build.html

In the fine print he mentions that some of the valves had rubber parts in the valve which deteriorate over time, while others were all brass and steel and hold up well. I believe one of Dan's first was a remanufactured that leaked on him. If it fails it's going to allow fuel to be drawn in even at idle and muck up tuning all the way.
Power valve on mine did leak at rest so I plugged it.
I could have gone further and replaced it and experimented with it but like Joe, I like the simplicity without it and after plugging it I see no need for it.
 
I have to collect some grab bars or make some runners. I have a type111 manifold, but am getting a hip replaced in a month, so I will try and get all my stuff moved to my wife's house before then. I'll be out of commission for three months, which takes me right to my retirement. Whahoooooo. I have been living in the US during the week and going to be with my wife weekends and vacations for almost ten years.

Not sure when I'll feel good enough to hold up a Goldwing. If it goes like the last one, it'll be two years. It was botched and had to be replaced, and then revised again. I am hoping this one goes better. With the best of circumstances maybe by June.

I am thinking the 32/36 might not need as much air correction. I know the Cap'n and others say it's too much carb, but I think it could be made to work. Still wavering about what diameter runners to go with. I had a half-baked idea for variable cone shaped runners, but I think it's past my skill set.

I got the 32/36 when I bought the manifold. It was kinda tossed in. If it doesn't work, I'll buy a new carb from Tom Landon.
 
well sheesh geee eric ... just do what you got to do im speechless on what on your plate....but one thing is for sure ill start now ....you have jog my concrete mind to move a little and i have taken the bate hook line and sinker LOL .....read a post the captian made at saunders ...he claims some secret guy is making the 28-32 the ultimate performace carb or what ever....but my experience is with the 32-32 and the 32-34 ......and its obvious to me the 2mm extra air in the 32-34 carb primary has more punch than 32-32 carb ... so dont see the 28- 32 carb being as capt says it is ... but that is just glance observation ....when you made it clear to me that the power valve effected both barrels on the 32-36 and that link you posted i was hooked big time ......again glance assetment ..to me it is clear that power valve for sure ..so much more than the 32-32 one....takes this carb right out of any possible smooth operating carb on a oldwing .......i am now into this carb i have that i havnt touched since i got it....this carb has huge potential to be the real performance carb maybe for motors like yours and mine ...with the power valve defeated.........the other concrete dumb thought you broke was looking at trying this carb when a project bike build comes .....sheesh i could try carb anytime i want ...it bolts right on stupid :doh: :hihihi:

so you take care eric and i will push this deal along as my conclusions seem to line up with yours ....

thanks very much for the hammer and chissle work to my head :thank_you: :hihihi:
 
this something to consider thread did just that to me ... i couldnt figure out how to start a new thread without loosing the feel of what this thread started.....if possible mods id like the title to be changed to something to consider 32-36 project if ok with eric .......got some pics
image.php

sheesh pics suck but this shows the bowl and main jet towers cast in center of bowl with i am assuming ges jets down at bootom ans air corrector jets up high ....the air corrector jets seem to be the only jets you can change with out carb break down ....dft carb is much better here as jetting is more user friendly....the other deal in botton of bowl seems to be a very arjustable accellerator pump feed....above the main jet towers is acelelerator pulp showers it obviously dose both barrels ...dft carb is primary only... this might be problem and have to madded...it also looks to adjustable to and might not be a problem if dial in right ....
image.php

this fuzzy pic shows power valve it between the floats in the bowl top ... it is also for both barrels and i see this as huge problem in oldwing ....

let me state this ..ones who have use this carb have had trouble getting it to idle .....at all or run below 2-3ooo rpm ...

statement of what i think ...a 32-36 carb will not run a oldwing till the power valve is out of the mode of adding gas ...when this happens this carb will run a oldwing motor but this is at a good clip of rpm .....as soon as the power valve kicks in operation it kills the motor instantly as it dumps fuel in both barrels ...sheesh like throwinga gallion of gas on a match thinking it will explode it just puts the match out ...is what i think is the biggest problem with the 32-36 carb ... so my first move will be to turn the power valve off ... :mrgreen:
 
Well now you have to chisel my brain, I thought the power valve only affects the primary main jet. Maybe the title should read, The Blind Leading the Blind. Lol. There' a concrete dumb one for you. :eek:k: Here's another good site on it: https://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... DGV_Tuning

This one is for a 1200 engine, and it makes it look like my jets are about what is recommended for it to start at on a gl1200. Ours will rev higher. I am thinking to try it stock, then if it's rich, eliminate one hole at a time in the power valve jet. If it's rich after three, then just remove it altogether. The Datsun site refers to plastic spacers to alter the position of where the actuation valve opens.

The accelerator pump on mine only feeds the primary side. The secondary is closed. Makes sense as the accelerator pump works when the secondary is not open. It is probably an option if you wanted to go to a non-progressive.

Page 53 in the Weber manual Dan loaded is where it shows the the power valve connected the main jet tubes.
image.jpg
I think the right hand drawing is trying to show that the secondary main is unaffected by the power valve. Again, it makes sense, as you wouldn't want extra fuel flowing to a jet with a throttle plate which isn't open.
 
It would be okay to change the title to Weber Considerations. Might get more input as the current title doesn't draw much attention. It would be nice if someone else who's near this point could try it.
 
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