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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: November 3rd, 2013, 3:02 pm

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I bought a GL1100 Aspy master cylinder with linked brake line fitting on Ebay. Paid an awful lot of money for it...and was very disappointed. The M/C was crusty, seized, and the ears of the circlip were broken off. I played with it for an hour or so and decided to risk cutting the circlip in half with a dremel cutoff wheel. This shouldn't harm the function when I'm done. Then how to get the stuck piston out without destroying the valve body? And then a brainstorm...(hope it doesn't turn out to be a light drizzle!)...I drilled and tapped the piston to accept a 1/4-20 threaded rod to make a slide hammer. A couple washers, a piece of pipe and presto, out comes the piston without damaging the bore.
I hope this helps someone else, cause these master cylinders are hard to find.
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: November 3rd, 2013, 4:30 pm

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Great idea! Thanks for sharing.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: November 3rd, 2013, 4:59 pm

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Very clever idea.

I had one frozen like that and eventually tossed it after soaking for weeks and not loosening.
Next time I'll remember this and pass it on to others.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: November 3rd, 2013, 6:47 pm

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ill remember this too

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: November 3rd, 2013, 9:32 pm

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as long as the drill and tap doesn't affect the piston actuation it should be a good fix..

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: November 4th, 2013, 3:44 am

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as long as the drill and tap doesn't affect the piston actuation it should be a good fix..


I'm not sure how you mean that. The rebuild kit includes a new piston and circlip, the drilling needs to be down the center of the piston (I stopped when I hit the spring through the other end) There is a lot of room to drill through the center of the piston and not hit the wall of the bore. The old piston is now scrap.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: November 4th, 2013, 8:26 am

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That is a very good tip. Necessity is the mother of invention, isn't it.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: November 4th, 2013, 8:32 am

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I learn so many things just simply by reading. Great idea!

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as long as the drill and tap doesn't affect the piston actuation it should be a good fix..


I'm not sure how you mean that. The rebuild kit includes a new piston and circlip, the drilling needs to be down the center of the piston (I stopped when I hit the spring through the other end) There is a lot of room to drill through the center of the piston and not hit the wall of the bore. The old piston is now scrap.


Haven't had to buy a replacement rebuild kit so wasn't aware it came with a new one... was thinking some might try cleaning it and reusing.. and with the push rod wasn't sure it wouldn't interfere with the workings of the matter..

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85 GL1200 Interstate
81 GL1100 Interstate
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: November 4th, 2013, 7:13 pm

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A Great idea! This will be very helpful to all of us, Hopefully we will not need to, Thanks for the info!!!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: November 4th, 2013, 9:01 pm

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I might have to do this on an '82 MC I have. I've removed stuck pistons by drilling and installing a self-tapping screw and pulling them out, but your idea of cutting threads and using a long rod as a slide hammer sounds much better. Now, where did I put that old master cylinder...???

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: November 5th, 2013, 5:51 am

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Yes I agree with all of the above, bright idea to solve a seemingly irreparable problem.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: April 24th, 2017, 6:43 pm

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Maybe someone in command, ought to make a sticky out of that!!

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: April 25th, 2017, 4:56 am

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2016 KLR 650
2018 Ducati V4S
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Profile Personal album

My YouTube Channel
Maybe someone in command, ought to make a sticky out of that!!

Just did :thanks:

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PLEASE! Use your Gallery album for saving pictures instead of using attachments or picture sharing sites, especially technical reference pics. This will make sure your images will ALWAYS be in your post and the discussion thread will make sense!
Go HERE and learn how to use the Gallery.


Image Image ImageClick to order CGW Stuff

If you know someone can embroider our 3" patch, let me know!
My photo gallery
How to use the Gallery, Part 1, Part 2

How to add your bike photo to the rotating banner and our Banner Rides Page.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: August 7th, 2018, 10:03 am

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I made a fitting with grease nipple on end that I just screw in piston brake line hole and then pump full of grease forcing piston out easily. Works every time

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