Changing the Oil

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Roady

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Location
Mulberry Grove, IL, USandA
I thought I might start out here with one of the basics.

For this lesson, we'll be spending about an hour or two changing the oil.

Hang onto your hat 'cause we're gonna dive in and get a little dirty.

Oil Filter

Where would you like to go today?

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17mm Box/Open End Wrench

You will need one of these (unless you have a Dipstick, then 19 and 22 will do, see below).

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Warm It Up!

Pop the bike up on the centerstand.

Either go for a 15 minute ride or let it idle until the fan comes on. I never get the ride since I'm usually in my grubbies by this time.

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While she's pollutin', round up your drain pan, funnel, new oil and rags.

Pull The Plug

CAUTION! HOT! From now on, just assume that everything on your bike is hot. Do not touch anything with your bare hands (or leg, yes) because it is hot. Wear gloves.

Put the drain pan under the front of the bike. Grab the 17mm and lay down on the right side of the bike with your head facing forward. Use the box end to loosen the Drain Bolt. Or use a socket and ratchet and you won't have to touch the bolt. It also won't fall anywhere.

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Remember, the oil is hot. Do not go fishing around with your finger in it to retrieve the Drain Bolt. Don't worry, it'll be there later when the oil cools down.

I have a dipstick so I put the open end of the 22mm on the back nut to hold it steady. You do not want it to move. Then use the open end of the 19mm to loosen the outer fitting. When that is loose, slide it forward. Then pull straight forward on the dipstick tube to free it from the fitting.

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Let the Fountain Run

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Loosen the Filter Housing

Use the box end of the 17mm (or a socket) to loosen the bolt on the filter housing. Turn it out 5 or 6 turns and oil should gush out of there and back onto the engine's underside. You did bring those rags down, didn't you?

Remove the Fill Cap

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Let 'er drain for about 15 minutes.

Organize while Waiting

Take the new filter out of the box. Put the old filter in the box.

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Meanwhile, collect up the parts and clean them up. Do not lose anything, use one of your little parts buckets. There was no washer (#4) on mine when I took it apart this time. Lost in the shuffle but it wasn't leaking. I had to clean up and go over to Ace for these. 2 for a buck. I hope I never have to use the spare but it went into the tool kit.

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If your filter housing bolt (#6) will come out of the housing (#3) it probably needs a new o-ring (#11). I have never been able to remove mine and have to use a wrench to fully remove and replace the housing. It's very hard to turn by hand. But it don't leak. Replace the o-ring if the bolt is loose.

Take out the large o-ring (#13) and inspect it. This one was on the bike when I got it. It may even be the original. Works good, never leaks. It's going back in.

Here's the order of reassembly.
  1. Put some fresh oil on #11 and slide it over #6.
  2. Slip #6 into #3 and seat it.
  3. Oil #13 and put it in place in #13's groove.
  4. Hold #3 like a bowl, drop #5 and then #4 onto the bolt.
  5. Oil the rubber fittings on #2 and press it onto #6.
**DiNg!** Your 15 minutes is up.

Elapsed time: 30 minutes

Crank It Over a Few Times

Activate the Kill Switch. Crank it with the starter for a second. Wait 5 seconds. Crank1-Wait5. Crank1. Let it drain a few more minutes.

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Add Half a Quart

With everything still open, drain pan in place, add about 1/2 Quart of new oil. Take a look at the splooge hole and you should see it clear up as it drains out. Takes 5 or 10 minutes. Have a beverage.

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Elapsed time: 40 minutes

Install the Oil Filter Unit

There are two tabs that make a slot on the outside base of the housing. These fit over a tab on the case, it's nearest to the center of the engine. Slide the housing in, line it up on the tabs and tighten the bolt. Do not give it the full power of your 17mm. About half will do nicely. I believe it's somewhere around 20 Ft.Lb.

Same on the Drain Bolt

Inspect the copper washer and replace it if you've been having leaks. Again, mine appears original but works. Install the bolt and tighten as above with your 17mm. Not too tight, those are hardened steel bolts going into an aluminum casing.

Fill It Up

Pour in the required quantity. Mine usually drinks pretty close to 4 quarts with this procedure. I'll go to 3-1/2, wait a bit and then usually end up putting in the other 1/2. Check your sight-glass or use a dipstick to check the level.

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Install the Fill Cap

Start 'er up. Check for leaks. Pick up the tools.

Put on the jacket, helmet, gloves and go enjoy the rest of the day.

Revisit at the 1st Fillup

Check the level after you run a tank through her. Seems the heads need to get wet and that takes about 1/4 of a quart.

Next time you'll be able to complete this in 45 minutes without getting your hands dirty.
 
Thanks.

As for the timing belt tutorial ... the best I've seen anywhere is the one that Octane wrote on Naked GoldWings. It can be found here. You can get a PDF of that writeup here.

I'll make a thread in the General Forum here, with those links. He wrote it based on the 1000 but the procedure is identical for 1100 and 1200.
 
Man,....that's gonna come in some kind of usefull to us new-wingers! Here's to you and your hard work along with your mad posting skills! :beer:
 
Roady":2v6pavp3 said:
Thanks.

As for the timing belt tutorial ... the best I've seen anywhere is the one that Octane wrote on Naked GoldWings. It can be found here. You can get a PDF of that writeup here.

I'll make a thread in the General Forum here, with those links. He wrote it based on the 1000 but the procedure is identical for 1100 and 1200.

I cant access that thread without being a member,and havnt been on there in so long I cant remember my password.
I really dont spend much time on other forums anymore,would be nice to see that kinda info all on here.Especially to the quality you did here.
 
Tory":122jh4mu said:
I cant access that thread without being a member,and havnt been on there in so long I cant remember my password.
I really dont spend much time on other forums anymore,would be nice to see that kinda info all on here.Especially to the quality you did here.

I'm the Member Relations Admin over at NGW and would be happy to activate your account.

Regardless, you can get the PDF from the other link because it's hosted here by Dan Filipi.

I can't post that thread here because I did not write it. And I won't be in the timing belts anytime soon. Well, maybe in the Spring, I have to replace Trixie's before we go riding, she's new to me.
 
Tory":1uw120av said:
Tory":1uw120av said:
Where exactly does washer #4 go? I dont recall having one.

Oh yeah, the infamous washer number 4!

That washer was missing on mine.
It sits between the spring and the filter.
If yours is not there, any washer that fits will work.
Apparently it provides a seat for the spring instead of sitting against the rubber seal of the filter, and may have something to do with pressure relief.
 
It wouldn't surprise me to find that 90% of the Wings out there don't have the spring OR the washer. I know mine didn't when I bought it, and I rode it like that for one summer! I did get a spring and washer to put in it at the first oil change. Actually, it was after the oil change that I found out it was supposed to have the spring and washer, so I had to pull the filter back off, and install the missing parts. :rtfm:
 
dan filipi":35f9qwm6 said:
Tory":35f9qwm6 said:
Tory":35f9qwm6 said:
Where exactly does washer #4 go? I dont recall having one.

Oh yeah, the infamous washer number 4!

That washer was missing on mine.
It sits between the spring and the filter.
If yours is not there, any washer that fits will work.
Apparently it provides a seat for the spring instead of sitting against the rubber seal of the filter, and may have something to do with pressure relief.

I dont have one either :fiddle: :crying:
Guess imma have to make a trip to Ace hardware
 
BigAndrew":rmv0ttx6 said:
Oh yeah, the infamous washer number 4!

That washer was missing on mine.
It sits between the spring and the filter.
If yours is not there, any washer that fits will work.
Apparently it provides a seat for the spring instead of sitting against the rubber seal of the filter, and may have something to do with pressure relief.

I dont have one either :fiddle: :crying:
Guess imma have to make a trip to Ace hardware[/quote]

That is why I am planning on buying one of these.

https://www.randakks.com/Engine%20Parts.htm#1
 
I thought about that too, We had a thread about that awhile back, And alot of us came to the conclusion that the old one cools off the oil alot better since the cap is all metal and also once you take it off you get a first hand look on what the filter is catching vs. with the spin on you would have to cut it in half

I still may do it cause i like the look of the orange and black fram filter, It would be alot quicker and easier to change, Also the filters would be cheaper
The cycle place by me sells the filters for our bikes for $10.99
 
I get my filters at AutoZone. About $5 each. Sorry, I don't have that part number handy. But they should be able to cross reference the Honda or Napa numbers.

Oil Filter for GL1000 & GL1100
Honda Part #15410-426-010, 15410-422-004
Napa PS4940

Also don't know how much Napa gets for theirs.... :hi:
 
I thought i was over payin :head bang:
I never checked AutoZone cause i didnt think they carried cycle filters
Thanks for the heads up... I'll have to check them out
 
BigAndrew":1yrw21lk said:
Now if only there was an easy step by step tutorial like that for rebuilding the carbs

Sorry, I missed the first response to this thread.

I posted Carburetor Removal, GL1100, but don't know what model you have. It kinda applies to all carbs.

You should put the year and model of your bike in your sig.

And also, you might find Carburetor Overhaul, GL1100 is an interesting read.

Again, those are specific to my 1100 but there's good stuff in there for GL1000's and 1200's too.

I'm just sayin'.
 
Thanks for the link :good: Im not soo sure the carbs need to be rebuilt, maybe they just need to be synced... Maybe i should buy the tool for that and give it a try

If im not gonna rebuild the carbs, I need to at least fix this slow fuel leak i got, It only seems to leak when i rev the engine or while im riding
 
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