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 Post subject: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: May 10th, 2018, 11:56 am

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Local time: August 15th, 2018, 1:33 am
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1979 KZ 1000 ltd wrecked


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I started the Aspy this morning and rode to work, I did notice it was charging at 14.2v. I got to work and when I went to lunch only 10.1v and no start, I have a portable starter/charger, It did start when jumped but the volt meter show's 9.9 and dropping. The battery is older and PO couldn't tell me when it was replace. Question is if the battery is dead will that affect the charging system?

Any help will be appreciated !!

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: May 10th, 2018, 12:14 pm

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Yes. To be sure you need to fully charge the battery and load test it first. If the battery tests fine then you need to then look at the charging circuit.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: May 10th, 2018, 12:48 pm

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Yes. To be sure you need to fully charge the battery and load test it first. If the battery tests fine then you need to then look at the charging circuit.


Agreed. Suspect the battery first. A dead cell in a battery can pull charging voltage down, same as a direct short somewhere would. Test or replace the battery first. :yes:

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: May 10th, 2018, 1:01 pm

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Agreed. When a normal (non-deep cycle) lead/acid battery finds itself in a state of deep discharge, the plates in the cells begin to deform. If it's discharged long enough or often enough, the plates can actually begin to curve and short in one or more cells. Of course, even one dead cell renders a battery useless. Deep cycle batteries have heavier plates less susceptible to this deformation.

Sorry for the ramble, but you won't be able to effectively assess charging unless you have a healthy battery. One shorted cell and the alternator cannot reach full charging voltage.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: May 11th, 2018, 3:56 am

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Any major parts chain will happily charge and test your battery for you. They shake their heads when I bring in my 13-year-old bottom-line Economy battery (full size, but used in a John Deere garden tractor) that still tests fine.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: May 11th, 2018, 6:50 am

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Have you checked the electrolyte levels. If low it will not charge.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: May 11th, 2018, 9:06 am

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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Local time: August 15th, 2018, 1:33 am
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My Bike Models: 1986 Aspencade SEi
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Update,
Thank you all for the replies, you are all correct: the battery was weak but it was helped by (I hate to AGAIN)

after digging this out from behind the battery and frame, it apparently has had the stator replaced but looking at the 3 yellow's the (whoever did the repair) cut the new connector end and soldered the 3 to the old connector wires and stuffed it back in, when I did the timing belts and replacing repairing connectors etc: I saw the 3 wires with heat shrink and not seeing the connector itself ASSUMED it had been removed and properly soldered. I attempted to repair last night after a 6 hr ordeal getting the Aspy home (finally having to hire a tow truck and that is another story thread-Never AGAIN) patched in 3 , with a fully charged new AGM it starts right up and only takes about 3 to 4 mins and to go from 12v to 8.9 then dies. I'm sure this shorted out the stator.
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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: May 11th, 2018, 4:11 pm

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No fun there! Hope you get it squared away.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: May 11th, 2018, 4:28 pm

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Another one of those damnable connectors! If I could get just one tip in the hands of every new owner of an Oldwing it wound be this, "If your bike still has this connector remove it now."

~O~

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: May 12th, 2018, 5:42 pm

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Another one of those damnable connectors! If I could get just one tip in the hands of every new owner of an Oldwing it wound be this, "If your bike still has this connector remove it now."

~O~

Replace the connectors and terminals. Good for another 30years and you can still diagnose you charging system easily with a new connection installed.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: May 15th, 2018, 5:25 am

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I am also in the "replace the connector" zone. I have pulled my engine twice over the last few years and the soldered wires can be a pain. The connector replaced (and properly maintained) will give years of service.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
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On my project bike, I installed these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt150-esc-side-5-sets-bag.html(bare) and then put marine shrink tubing over them. I'll be able to slice the shrink tubing off if I ever need to pull the engine again (hope I don't).
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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: May 18th, 2018, 2:48 pm

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Update... I finally had some time and soldered in the correct gauge wire on the 3 stator wires and with a fully charged battery it starts right up and runs but it isn't charging, it ran long enough for the cooling fan to kick on , the voltage was down to 10.98 testing at the battery I thought it would be lower so I am not yet convinced.The Clymer book tells me that you can disconnect the stator connector and check resistance and or voltage with the bike running, It states that an "84 will put out 50v on each wire and if any less the stator is bad. My question is do all 1200 stators put out 50v ? even my SE1? That is my next move since I'll need to cut the new patch wires to do the repair if it is a stator .

I found 2 local shop's that will do for $1000 +parts. ouch and I don't think so

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: May 18th, 2018, 3:59 pm

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Poor boy time. Cheaper, better, easier, more reliable.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery or Stator
Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: May 18th, 2018, 4:38 pm

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The SEi will put out more AC voltage because the stator is 500 watts instead of 350 for the carb models.

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